Simply delicious
Award-winning chef Sue Lawrence gets ready to cook up a taste of sea life
Published:
THE seaside town of Portsoy is proud of its fishing heritage and, every July, it pays homage to its maritime roots by hosting the Scottish Traditional Boat Festival.
Renowned for its culinary refinement and varied seafood, the north-east is an area with a host of tastes, from the freshest salmon and haddock to such tender delicacies as scallops and crab.
It is many years since Portsoy was a booming fishing port, but it is proud to play its part in promoting the fine fish products for which the Moray Firth coast is still world renowned.
Critically acclaimed Scottish chef Sue Lawrence has created recipes to commemorate the event using all the Portsoy coast has to offer.
The salmon, haddock, crab and scallops are all caught locally, and Sue has used these to epitomise the flavours of the north-east.
She says: “Fish is such a versatile dish and this area produces some of the finest seafood to work with.
“Sourcing the best ingredients is key to making a delicious meal, and the north-east coast is plentiful in culinary delights.
“The combination of textures and tastes in these dishes enhances the freshness of the fish and excites the palate.”
Roast Salmon with a Herby Oatmeal Crust
Serves 4
Sue says: “This is a very simple, yet tasty, recipe of succulent, moist salmon underneath a delicious crust of herby oatmeal.
“I like to use a mixture of half pinhead and half medium oatmeal, but if you only have one or the other, that is fine. Coarse or rough oatmeal is also good, but fine oatmeal will not give such a good crunchy texture.”
4 salmon fillets (preferably middle-cut), skinned and pin bones removed
2 tblspn extra-virgin olive oil, and extra to brush
3oz (85g) oatmeal
The zest of 1 large lemon
3 tblspn freshly chopped herbs (parsley/mint/chervil)
Couscous (made as per packet instructions), to serve
Brush the salmon all over with oil.
Combine the remaining ingredients, season with salt and pepper and place on a plate. Dip the (rounded) surface of each fillet into the mixture, then place on an oiled baking sheet.
Place on the top shelf of a preheated oven (220C/425F/Gas Mark 7) for about 10 minutes, or until the fish is just cooked. Test by inserting the tip of a sharp knife into the centre.
Serve with couscous dressed with olive oil, lemon juice and freshly chopped mint.
Smoked Haddock with Bacon and Roasted Cherry Tomatoes
Serves 2
“The simplicity of this recipe belies its fabulous flavours,” says Sue.
“Smoked haddock wrapped in bacon and served with roasted cherry tomatoes not only looks gorgeous, but the taste is superb, a true flavour of Scotland.”
2 undyed smoked haddock fillets, skinned
4 rashers dry-cure smoked back bacon
Olive oil
4 sprigs of cherry tomatoes on the vine
Roll the fish so that the thin ends are tucked underneath to make a neat little parcel. Wrap the bacon around, tucking the ends underneath.
Place on lightly oiled baking sheet. Place the tomatoes around the fish then season these with sea salt and pepper. Season the fish parcel with pepper only as the smoked fish will be salty enough. Drizzle all over with oil.
Place the baking sheet near the top of a preheated oven (230C/450F/Gas 8) for 10-15 minutes, or until the fish is just cooked and the skins of the tomatoes start to split.
Using a fish slice, transfer the fish to warm serving plates, place the tomatoes on top, then pour over the pan juices.
Serve with a green salad and good bread.
Crab Tart with Creme Fraiche and Watercress
Serves 6
Sue says: “This tart is good served warm or cold, but never either piping hot or straight from the fridge.
“Make the pastry in advance if you can, but if time is short, place the pastry-lined tin in the freezer for half-an-hour, instead of chilling overnight, before blind-baking. This sets the pastry.
For the pastry:
6oz (170g) plain flour, sifted
1oz (28g) finely grated Parmesan cheese
4oz (110g) unsalted butter, diced
1 large free-range egg, beaten
For the filling:1oz (28g) freshly grated Parmesan cheese
1lb (450g) crabmeat (mainly white meat)
3oz (85g) watercress, chopped
3 large free-range eggs, lightly beaten
Grated zest of 1 lemon
7fl oz (195ml) creme fraiche
For the pastry, place the flour, cheese and butter in a food processor with a pinch of salt. Process briefly then, with the machine running, add the egg. Bring together with your hands. then clingwrap and chill for half-an-hour or so.
Then roll out to fit a deep 9in (23cm) tart tin, prick all over and chill well, preferably overnight.
Fill with foil and baking beans and bake blind at 190C/375F/Gas Mark 5 for 15 minutes, then remove the foil and cook for a further 5-10 minutes, until just cooked.
Remove and sprinkle the Parmesan cheese over the base while still hot. Allow to cool.
Stir the crab and watercress together, then add the remaining ingredients, seasoning with plenty of salt and pepper (taste it, if you can bear to, to ensure that you have just enough seasoning, adding more salt and pepper if necessary) and pour into the pastry case.
Bake for 40-45 minutes at 190C/375F/Gas Mark 5, until set and tinged with golden brown.
Serve warm or cold with a watercress and chicory salad.
Seared Scallops with Pea and Mint Mash
Serves 4
“To my mind, there is little to rival a dish of locally caught scallops in terms of taste,” says Sue.
“Served, as they are here, with a minty pea mash, they become even more memorable. They also look pretty as a picture.”
12 plump fresh scallops
Olive oil
2lb 4oz (1kg) floury potatoes
9oz (255g) peas (fresh or frozen)
3oz (85g) butter, softened
2 tblspn fresh mint leaves
Mint sprigs, to garnish
If the scallops are very thick, separate the white scallop muscle from the orange coral. The coral cooks more quickly and tends to burst and splatter all over your cooker if it is in a hot pan for too long. Otherwise, leave whole. Marinate them in a little olive oil and set aside for at least 20 minutes.
Peel and chop the potatoes, then cook in salted water until tender.
Meanwhile, cook the peas until just done, but still bright green. Drain and place in a blender or food processor with half the butter. Process until it is a smooth puree, adding the mint leaves towards the end.
Drain and thoroughly dry the potatoes, then mash with the remaining butter. Add the pea puree and plenty of salt and pepper to taste.
Heat a heavy frying pan to very hot. Add the white scallop muscles (or whole scallops) and sear on one side, seasoning, for 1 minute, then turn and add the corals.
Cook over a high heat for a further 1-1½ minutes, or until just cooked.
To serve, place a mound of pea mash on warm plates and top with the scallops and coral. Garnish with fresh mint and serve with plenty of crusty baguette.
Readers' Comments