Make magic in a winter wonderland

Looking for a trip of a lifetime for small children who still believe in Santa? Lapland in December is the best for husky sled rides, fresh air and the cutest dogs on the planet, writes Elaine Roberts

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THERE’S a sparkle in the snow that blankets Santa’s Lapland in the forests of the Arctic Circle. It’s reflected in the stars of the night sky, which are brighter than you ever see from the streets of Britain.

But nothing quite matches the wonder in your children’s eyes when they discover the real Santa hidden in a log cabin deep in the woods.

At first, they walk through the snow-covered trees, never quite believing their parents’ promises that they are going to find the home of Father Christmas. Rounding a corner, they see the cabin with smoke rising from the chimney.

A pointy-eared elf opens the creaking door and their eyes open wide as the man in red with a long, white beard welcomes them in and sits them on his lap to hear their Christmas wishes.

It’s a magical moment. Mums and dads can stand back knowing it’s a memory that will last in their little ones’ minds forever.

The trip to see Santa is the highlight of any visit to Lapland for a Christmas break. But, unlike most holidays, the adventure starts from the moment you board the flight to Rovaniemi, in Finland.

Forget about the worries of your children being noisy and bothering others on the flight – this is a plane full of youngsters going on a festive break, with the aircrew specially selected for knowing how to cope.

There are carol contests, jokes and games throughout the trip, and barely time for something to eat.

Even for the experienced traveller, flying across the snowy wastelands is a thrill – and for the children, seeing the giant snowman built at the airport is the moment they know they have arrived.

Don’t worry about the cold.

Temperatures do plummet to -30C sometimes, but you travel in a heated coach straight to the headquarters of Arctic Adventures, where helpful staff provide a thermal snow suit, special boots, hats, gloves and scarf.

You emerge waddling like a Michelin man, but warm and overlooking the stunning Kemijoki river with your children already chucking snowballs at you.

We made the short trip to the Sky Hotel, situated on a fabulous hilltop location overlooking ski slopes and forests, where there are rooms with private saunas and family log cabins in the grounds.

Within minutes, our two boys, aged four and six, had found a toboggan run just yards from the front door.

A warm snowsuit, a plastic sled and a gentle slope meant hours of outdoor fun and, unlike ski-ing, there were few worries about injuries or long lessons at a school to learn techniques. Then it was into our private sauna for a quick warm-up before dinner.

The Sky Hotel’s restaurant, with its panoramic views, is one of the best in Lapland. We were slightly worried what our children would think about eating one of red-nosed Rudolph’s cousins when reindeer was served up, but they tucked into the dark meat, warm stews and a host of other local specialities.

The middle day of a three-day Dream of Santa break is the only full 24 hours in Lapland, so it was an early start for activities at the Santa Centre.

Forget the idea that you will be spending your day at the equivalent of a snowy theme park. It is more like a place where separate adventures are dotted around a winter wonderland.

Start with the reindeer sleigh ride where, tucked up warm under skin blankets, you are pulled around the woods by a team of Santa’s friends, and stop off for a drink of hot berry juice.

Visit the Elf School to learn traditional Finnish songs and how to make decorations and decorate Lapland biscuits.

For dads, the highlight is husky sled-rides. Hold on tight as he loads the family on board and takes the reins. Within seconds, you are speeding round a frozen lake shouting “Mush, Mush” at a team of dogs.

In Santa’s Christmas Control Centre, your little ones help to sort letters, track presents and generally keep control of Father Christmas’s global empire.

The children will love zooming on the mini snow ski-doo. Squeeze in a bit of lunch of hot soup and salmon, do a bit of tobogganing – and leave the private meeting with Santa until the end, the highlight of a day both exhilarating and exhausting.

Tour operator Esprit really has thought of everything: before departure, you’ll receive special notepaper on which the children write their Christmas wish list.

The letters are left in your fireplace to be collected by the elves after they have gone to bed. And when they meet the real Santa, he has their letter in his hand (discreetly delivered by mum and dad).

In the evening, the three-course dinner after drinks in the Ice Bar was in front of the Lapland Show. Don’t expect the West End, but there was plenty of enthusiasm and the children were allowed on-stage for dancing.

On the third day, you must shake off tiredness for another early start on an optional adventure, because you won’t be in Lapland very often.

We chose a Snowmobile Safari in which you traverse snowy forests on your own machine at speeds of 40mph – the children, in Star Wars-style helmets, are pulled behind. Climb off for a break halfway through and the snow is six feet deep.

Others took a romantic reindeer ride for two, went ice driving or joined an evening search for the Northern Lights, the mystical Aurora Borealis, where the sky lights up in the dark as solar particles collide with the Earth’s magnetic field. Another option is spending a night in a real igloo.

There are problems, of course. This is not a credit-crunch holiday. Prices are high and the weak pound meant a beer, a glass of wine and two lemonades cost £15. Optional trips are expensive, but too tempting to turn down.

It is also an old-style package holiday, with plenty of time spent sitting on coaches. An independent traveller used to making their own way might find it a bit constricting when tour reps – Lapland Rangers – insist on early-morning singsongs.

You must also be wary of differences between the trips on offer by different operators. Esprit offers top-quality rides, and the Santa visit was exceptionally good.

But some firms offer only a quick “hello” from Santa in a crowded restaurant and rides behind huskies or reindeer which are two-minute “tasters” unless you cough up for something longer.

But give it a go, and don’t miss the chance to make some real magic in a real winter wonderland.

Elaine Roberts was a guest of Esprit Holidays, which offers three-day Dream of Santa trips – including return flights ex-Gatwick, B&B at The Sky Hotel in Rovaniemi, snowmobile search for Santa, husky rides and a private meeting with Santa – from £659 per adult, first child (2-5) free, other children (6-11) £395.40. Esprit: 01252 618 300 or www.santaslapland.com