AT FIRST glance, it was a floating caravan complete with kitchen, lounge area, table and two small bedrooms.
But this Caley Cruiser was home for a week for me and my boyfriend, Angus (or the Captain, as he declared himself for those seven days) – a little cruise boat to take us down the Caledonian Canal from Inverness to Fort William and back.
Designed by the renowned engineer, Thomas Telford, the canal is, in fact, in three sections linking Loch Ness, Loch Oich and Loch Lochy.
After filling the fridge with supplies and armed with instructions, a map and Caley Cruisers’ book of advice to cope with every situation, we set off.
Leaving Inverness and getting on to Loch Ness in the bright autumn sunshine made our adventure real. The view down the loch was amazing, with the mountains and green, yellow and brown trees looking fantastic.
We headed for Drumnadrochit at full speed, keeping an eye out for Nessie on the way. The harbour is a few minutes’ walk from the village, where there are lots of shops, cafes and pubs.
The legendary monster is obviously one of the main attractions, but the Loch Ness Exhibition Centre in Drumnadrochit shows there is more to the loch.
Scientist Adrian Shine has spent decades studying the mysteries and his exploits make a fascinating audiovisual feature at the exhibition centre, which also displays his scientific equipment.
Without spoiling the show, there was plenty of interesting information about the loch, and it certainly made us ponder the mysteries as we carried on our trip.
But a Caley Cruisers trip is not all sightseeing. Sailing the canal means negotiating lock gates which enable your boat to go up and downhill as the waterway winds its way through the Highland countryside.
Caley Cruisers provides instructions on what to do at these regular obstacles, and the British Waterways staff are always on hand to help.
Leaving all the tricky manoeuvring to the Captain, I had to fling the ropes – a task I did not entirely master. They inevitably fell in the water a few times, causing strained words, but mostly we came through the locks with ease.
The hydraulics are fascinating to watch, with the water rushing in and out of the chamber. Sometimes, you move just a foot, sometimes up to 10ft.
At Fort Augustus, at the south end of Loch Ness, there are five locks to negotiate, taking about an hour to get through. To add to the problem, the boat must be pulled through by the crew, walking, from the canal-side.
The picturesque village is popular with tourists, who stand to watch the poor sailors dragging their vessels along. As we started our first slow trip through, two Japanese girls popped up alongside, with one asking if I would stand for a photo. I declined, of course. After all, I was pulling a boat at the time.
Not that it bothered the two girls, who snapped away merrily. Somewhere, there is a picture of a Japanese girl posing at Fort Augustus while close behind her stands a bemused-looking Scottish girl in a life-jacket pulling a 34ft cruise boat.
Our afternoon’s exertions behind us, we moored at the top of the locks for the night and set off to the village’s Lovat Hotel for dinner.
The hotel, run by Caroline Gregory, has been showered with awards, and it was easy to see why. An exquisite meal awaited us in the restaurant, which has two AA rosettes. There were so many courses that we lost count, with sorbet, salmon, guinea fowl and venison all cooked to perfection.
The next day, we went abseiling with Monster Activities, which provides a host of extreme sports from a base at the Great Glen Water Park on Loch Oich.
Our guide, Iain Mackinnon, took us to a rock face which appeared slight from the bottom but took on giant proportions when gazing from the top.
Having never abseiled before, I crawled down the rocks, while the Captain glided down with ease.
White-water rafting was also on the cards but, with a tight sailing schedule, we returned to the water.
And even if sport is not to your taste, there are pontoons all the way along the canal providing a welcome stop-off for exploration of the area. The canal route is littered with villages and hotels, and there are plenty of historic attractions.
Overnight at Laggan Locks was our most stormy, with a whistling wind and the sound of dripping water. I lay awake with thoughts of a leak while the Captain slept soundly.
We finally made it to Banavie and Neptune’s Staircase, the limit of Caley Cruisers’ domain, after four days and celebrated by walking into Fort William, which lies at the foot of Scotland’s highest mountain, Ben Nevis, and having a pub lunch.
It was a leisurely trip back, with a brief stop at Letterfinlay Lodge Hotel on Loch Lochy. The hotel was taken over three years ago and was refurbished, resulting in a stylish combination of traditional shooting lodge and modern hotel.
Owner Ian Smith has also installed a wooden deck overlooking the loch, and it was here that we tried a spot of clay-pigeon shooting. It was hard to keep your eyes on a flying clay given the beautiful backdrop of Munros, but we both managed to hit a few. Those that escaped still lie somewhere in the loch.
But my final memory of the trip is of an evening at Fort Augustus on the return journey, when we watched the mountains north-west of the village turned red by the setting sun, with the sky to the south changing from yellow to pink to dark blue. As we settled into our cosy cruiser for the evening, that view made all the exertion worthwhile.
Jane was a guest of Caley Cruisers, Canal Road, Inverness.
Cruisers are available for hire between April and the beginning of October, with prices dependent on the time of year and class of boat.
Contact 01463 236328 for more information, or see www.caleycruisers.com
Loch Ness Exhibition Centre is open all year round, although opening times vary depending on the season. Group bookings can be made by calling 01456 450573, or at www.lochness.com/loch-ness-monster-exhibition.htm
Dinner at the Lovat Hotel costs £35 per person for a five-course meal. It is open seven days a week. Bookings can be made by calling 0845 450 1100, or at www.thelovat.com
Abseiling with Monster Activities costs £20 per person. Other activities are available, including guided walks, clay-pigeon shooting and white-water rafting. Prices vary. Contact Iain Mackinnon on 07710 540398 for more information, or see www.monsteractivities.com
Letterfinlay Lodge Hotel is on the A82 Inverness-Fort William road, seven miles north of Spean Bridge. Rooms are available from £60 a night and food is served throughout the day. For more information, phone 01397 712622, or visit www.letterfinlaylodge hotel.co.uk