Classy cuisine
School dinners rocketed to a whole new level in Inverness when Albert Roux and pupils of Charleston Academy got together, writes Susan Welsh
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PUPILS at Charleston Academy in Inverness have earned top marks by taking school dinners to a whole new level.
Last week, the Press and Journal joined 100 paying guests for a fine-dining gala dinner in the school’s refectory.
The menu, which combined top Highland ingredients and French flair, was created by home economics pupils who have been tutored by the school’s culinary mentor, legendary chef Albert Roux.
Mr Roux, who opened his first Scottish restaurant, Chez Roux at the Rocpool Reserve in Inverness earlier this year, is a trustee of the Academy of Culinary Arts and is passionate about instilling his own enthusiasm for cooking in the next generation.
His links with Charleston began after head teacher Calum MacSween wrote asking if he would like to strengthen the Auld Alliance by working with pupils studying French, home economics, art and music.
Chef Roux said “oui” and, since then, the partnership has been tremendously successful, with pupils and staff benefiting greatly from his experience.
Learning in the kitchen is one thing, but coping under pressure is what counts, so the idea of putting pupils to the test by transforming the refectory into a swish restaurant offering 100 covers was born.
Weeks of preparation went into the gala dinner, with pupils working closely with Chef Roux and staff from the Rocpool Reserve, including general manager Kerry Watson and depute chef Glen Watson.
Some worked on food, while others learned housekeeping and waiting skills, which included learning how to polish glasses and cutlery, set tables and even how to correctly wash and iron the dazzling white tablecloths.
Teachers learned to be wine waiters, while one, a crack rifleman, shot the deer for the main-course venison dish.
After being greeted by pipers, guests were welcomed with a glass of champagne.
The night began in dramatic style when curtains were pulled back to reveal a stylish eatery lit by candles and fairy lights, with beautifully dressed tables.
The menu included warm brown and white bread rolls with Scottish butter; organic Scottish smoked salmon tartare with sauce raifort, or cheese and squash beignets with marinated vegetables for vegetarian diners, followed by mains of Highland venison Bourguignon with creamy mashed potatoes or wild mushroom risotto.
Dessert was sable of poached pear with fresh vanilla sauce followed by coffee and white chocolate tablet.
The service was superb. The smartly dressed waiting staff were supremely efficient without being overbearing.
And attention was paid to little details such as having the chair pulled out for you, and the girls wearing pumps instead of heels, which allowed them to move silently between tables.
As we tucked in, other talented pupils provided musical entertainment – including an accordionist who had to leave early as he had an English essay to complete.
The food was first-class – as good as anything I’ve eaten in top restaurants. The salmon tartare was deliciously flavoursome, beautifully presented and with a good balance of flavours.
The venison Bourguignon was inspirational. Beautifully tender, the red wine it was cooked in complemented it rather than overpowering the delicate flavours.
Meanwhile, a vegetarian guest at our table was singing the praises of her dishes.
Our sweet, a visual and taste treat, was about as far removed from lumpy school custard as you could get.
Mr Roux said: “I am delighted to be able to pass on to the pupils of Charleston Academy my life’s passion for cooking.
“I have looked into their eyes and seen the passion and excitement they have for this project.
“I tell them it’s important to use local ingredients and say they are lucky to live in a part of the world where such fine food is available.
“But a visit to a restaurant is not just about the food; it’s about little things like not having a thumbprint on the plate.”
Grinning widely, he said: “I told them, don’t put your thumb on the plate, and they haven’t.
“That’s something that can takes weeks for professionals to learn, but they mastered it in a short time.
“They have all done fantastically well – if any of them want to apply for a job with me they can see me afterwards.”
One who may take up his offer is Emily Purvis, a fourth-year pupil at the school.
“It has been great working with Mr Roux,” said Emily, 15, of Ruisaurie, near Beauly.
“He taught me to take great care and pride in what I’m doing and stressed that it’s vitally important to use Scottish produce as it’s the best in the world.”
Emily’s parents, Dr Robert Purvis and his wife, Hilary, are also delighted with Mr Roux.
“He is a fantastic ambassador for food and his passion has clearly rubbed off on Emily,” said Dr Purvis.
“Emily has always been very hands-on in the kitchen, but she has been so impressed by Mr Roux that she has offered to cook Christmas dinner for the family – and I’ve accepted,” said Mrs Purvis.
Fellow fourth-year pupil Katie Grainger, of Breakachy, Beauly, said: “There has been a great buzz in the school this week and I’ve thoroughly enjoyed it. However, after having the restaurant experience, I think I’ll pursue a career in hospitality and management rather than chef-ing as I enjoyed that side of things better.”
At the end of the night, head teacher Mr MacSween revealed that almost £2,000 had been raised, which pupils generously donated to the play therapists at Raigmore Hospital, Inverness.
The play therapists are volunteers who play with youngsters on the children’s ward at the hospital, help prepare them for surgical procedures using a variety of techniques and give parents much needed respite.
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