None finer

Gordon Brown and Alistair Darling have given everyone in Britain something to dislike about Scotland – but in beautiful Argyll, Ryan Crighton found the remedy

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FAMILIARITY breeds contempt – or so the saying goes – and I, like many, have become disillusioned with Scotland over the past few years.

In a George Burley-induced state of perpetual gloom, I was slowly falling out of love with the country which gave the world telephones, televisions and flushing toilets.

But on the rugged west coast lies nature’s antidepressant – Loch Fyne.

Stretching 40 miles inland from the Sound of Bute, it is the longest of the country’s sea lochs, and every inch of it serves as a reminder of why almost everyone the world over claims to have “Scottish roots”.

On its banks, at Inveraray, sits the Loch Fyne Hotel and Spa.

Its owner says the hotel is one of Scotland’s “hidden gems” – a claim which I have become hardened to after five years of reading press releases. But I think they are right – sitting on the edge of the loch close to Inveraray’s main street, the hotel has stunning, unbroken views across the Cowal peninsula.

With the uninterrupted views, many guests return every year to enjoy lazy afternoons on the terrace watching the ever-changing scenery.

The hotel also has an acclaimed spa and outdoor hot tub for sheer indulgence, as well as a stunning restaurant renowned for locally sourced produce.

My partner and I were booked into the Lagavulin suite, complete with tartan carpet and quality fittings.

The centrepiece of the room was a bed with steps either side leading to a balcony overlooking the loch.

More stunning views are available in the swimming pool and Jacuzzi, which also look out on to the water.

While I am not sure how people here could ever feel stressed, full body aromatherapy massages, Indian head massages, reiki, hot stone massages and facial treatments are all on offer at the hotel’s spa.

Dinner in the hotel restaurant, the Clansman, is chosen from a simple table d’hote menu or a full a la carte selection.

From the former, my partner ordered the pork and venison terrine starter, while I sampled the smoked trout cheesecake with Highland oatcakes.

After a demitasse of vegetable soup, it was a main course stacked with local ingredients. Breaded Isle of Arran brie with rosemary and cranberry sauce for me and chicken balontine with haggis and thyme sauce for her.

The meal, which was swiftly served, was finished with a rich chocolate and hazelnut mousse.

The lounge bar, right next to the restaurant, is the place to unwind afterwards with its selection of real ales, brewed locally at Loch Fyne Ales. There are also 70 malt whiskies behind the bar to choose from while taking in the views as the sun sets over the loch.

The hotel also has a surprising history – it was the venue where Winston Churchill convened the only war Cabinet outside Downing Street during World War II. The hotel had been commandeered and was being used as the headquarters for combined operations training at the time.

Inveraray, itself, is one of Scotland’s prettiest destinations; the crisp black and white frontage and historic buildings have preserved its Georgian roots.

Scotland being Scotland, it rained for the duration of our stay. Our country will never be perfect, but politicians and the odd football manager aside, sometimes it gets pretty close.

Inveraray is 175 miles from Aberdeen, via Perth, and about three hours and 45 minutes should be allowed for driving. From Glasgow, it is 59 miles and will take about one hour and 40 minutes. There is a thrice-daily bus service from Glasgow.

Loch Fyne Hotel and Spa is a three-star hotel with a swimming pool, Jacuzzi, sauna and steam-room. A double or twin room costs £135 per night, a single £70, and suites start at £160, all based on bed-and-breakfast.

For a map to get to the hotel, visit www.crerarhotels.com/ ourhotels/loch_fyne_hotel/ find_us.html