THE romantic island of Mull is a destination that offers hidden gems for the enthusiastic visitor.
There are the rolling white sands and standing-stones circle at Lochbuie, not far from Craignure, where the ferry from Oban docks.
There is dramatic Carsaig with black, volcanic sands and dramatic cliffs that guard the footpath leading to the Nun’s Cave and rare rock formations. And, closer to the island capital, Tobermory, is the Calgarry Beach, regarded by many as the finest on the west coast.
Tobermory itself is a jewel, with its much photographed multicoloured seafront buildings twinkling in the sun and, just occasionally, glistening in the rain.
It is famed for being the home of Balamory, the children’s TV programme that still draws families in their hundreds to the popular port and the quayside fish-and-chip van once patronised by none other than Prince Charles.
But now Tobermory and Mull have another “hidden” gem that is being talked about more and more, and not just on the island.
It is the Highland Cottage, David and Jo Currie’s award-winning small hotel and fine-dining restaurant sitting high above the seafront with splendid views out over the bay past bobbing yachts to Calve Island and the mainland of Morvern beyond.
Highland Cottage is an unassuming, but welcoming, building set amid the quiet elegance of the town’s conservation area, in Breadalbane Street, yet it is only a few minutes from the hustle and bustle of Main Street and the Fisherman’s Pier.
When I first read about Highland Cottage, it was described as a haven of genuine hospitality, with well appointed, comfortable bedrooms and exceptional cuisine – every bit a genuine home from home as much as a small upmarket hotel. And so it turned out to be.
It is a purpose built hotel designed, built and operated by David and Jo Currie, who bring many years of experience to their roles as mine hosts. Comfort and good food is what they promise the visitor, and that pledge was certainly fulfilled.
On arriving, the free parking is quickly appreciated by city dwellers such as myself, as is the bundle of umbrellas in the foyer for the use of guests.
The reception area is small, but welcoming, and soon visitors are ensconced in delightful rooms, some overlooking the sea, and named after the islands in the area – including Iona, Tiree, Coll, Ulva, and Staffa.
Being a cottage, none of the bedrooms is huge, but two are big enough to contain fully dressed four-poster beds.
All are appointed to a high standard with flat-screen digital TVs with Freeview, digital radio, DVD and CD players. Each room also has an iPod dock and a hospitality tray with complimentary confectionery in addition to the more usual tea and coffee.
The fully en-suite bathrooms have full-sized baths to luxuriate in, as well as an invigorating thermostatic shower. There was always gallons of hot water, and the evening soak became a major ritual of our short stay.
As Mr Currie put it: “Our six bedrooms are not intended to be the corporate-hotel executive suite – nor would you expect them to be. They are, however, extremely well appointed, are very homely, and we want you to wake up in a room which does not scream ‘hotel’ at you.”
If you can drag yourself away from the soothing lights and cushioned comfort of the bedroom, there are two separate lounges, little havens of tranquillity to relax and unwind in after a day exploring the fascinating island.
The sitting room upstairs has great views across Tobermory Bay and has up-to-date magazines, a writing desk and an honesty bar.
The sun lounge downstairs is an extension of the restaurant, and it was there that we sipped our gins, nibbled our nibbles and were soothed by the gentle strains of traditional Scottish music as we salivated over the menu. And, all the while, the scent from the lavender in the patio garden wafted gently in on the breeze.
With Mull being set in the clear blue sea, seafood was always going to be my first choice and, after an appetiser of Jerusalem artichoke veloute, cakes made from locally caught crab, carrot and celeriac salad with chilli and caper sauce hit the spot.
A cleansing rhubarb and ginger sorbet later and I was ready for the main. It was a difficult choice between seared Tobermory diver scallops and parsnip mash with ginger cream and game, but I plumped for the roast saddle of Ardnamurchan venison and red cabbage with juniper berry sauce, and was not disappointed.
I had the massive scallops the following night, and they were as nice as I have tasted anywhere.
A baked vanilla cheesecake with raspberry coulis, coffee, tablet and a digestif in the sun lounge and it was time for the welcoming billows of the four-poster pillows.
David is a graduate of the University of Strathclyde, Scottish Hotel School, and Jo was running her parents’ small hotel in Cumbria at the age of 19. She is a self-taught chef, and her range of fine-dining meals is immense, taking good advantage of locally caught fish, local venison and locally reared meat.
Their approach is a combination of professionalism with informality and a complete lack of “stuffiness”, and that has made the Cottage a popular venue not only with visitors, but also for islanders on a special night out, perhaps celebrating an anniversary or engagement, or just wanting to relish fine ingredients, skilfully and honestly cooked, in pleasant surroundings.
The Cottage has a growing list of prestigious awards and accolades.
It has been an AA Top (red star) Hotel since 2000 and has maintained two-rosette restaurant status over the same period. It won a prestigious Thistle Award for customer care in 2001 and was Scottish finalist in the Lloyds TSB Small Business Champions, and in September 2005, it was awarded Les Routiers Hotel of the Year for Scotland.
More recent awards include: Scottish Hotel Awards – Real Food, Fine Dining Award 2009; Hotel Review Scotland – Island Hotel of the Year 2006, Medaille d’Or for Exceptional Cuisine 2007 and Hospitality Excellence Award 2008.
In addition, the Cottage was a finalist in the Johansens Most Excellent Hotel Restaurant for 2007 and was recognised with a Scotland the Best Excellence Award in 2006 and 2008. The Curries have also held the VisitScotland EatScotland Silver Award for 2007 and 2008 for food.
Bed and breakfast starts from £150, with dinner, bed and breakfast starting from £240. Dinner is £45 per person.
The Cottage is open from mid-March until late-October and rates are per room based on a maximum of two persons sharing a twin/double room.
Discounts are available for dinner, bed and breakfast stays of four nights or more, and honeymoon packages, romantic breaks and New Year breaks are available on request.
The Highland Cottage Hotel, Breadalbane Street, Tobermory, Isle of Mull, Argyll, PA75 6PD – phone 01688 302030, or e-mail davidandjo@ highlandcottage.co.uk