A right royal tour
Travelling aboard the luxurious Royal Scotsman offers the chance to experience some old-world opulence and, with only 36 passengers per journey, you can be assured that this is the most exclusive way to see the Highlands, writes Iain Duff
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AS A proud Scotsman, I always knew that my country provided some glorious sights to visitors. But somehow the views from the comfort of my seat aboard the Royal Scotsman seemed even better than usual.
Of course, it might of helped that I had a glass of champagne in my hand, readily topped up by attentive staff whenever the level dropped a centimetre or so. From the moment you step aboard this train, you are surely entering a different world.
Forget first class, this is true luxury. Gourmet cuisine, lavishly-appointed state rooms and superb personal service make this train the ultimate way to see the spectacular Highlands of Scotland.
The Royal Scotsman is run by Orient-Express and it is everything you imagine one of their trains would be. From the moment you step aboard, you can feel the weight of the world lift from your shoulders and even the clocks seem to be ticking that bit slower.
Not only are you leaving behind the stresses and strains of modern life but you are entering a world of opulence and romance. It’s a return to a bygone age with the thick carpets, dark wood walls and comfy sofas a world away from the soulless, modern commuter trains in which many of us spend too much time.
Needless to say, all this comes at a price. Our two-night journey round the Highlands costs almost £1,700 per person and that rises to £5,000 for a week-long trip.
But for a very special occasion there are plenty who reckon it’s a price worth paying. And with passengers hailing from the US, Japan, Switzerland and Germany on our trip, word has obviously spread far and wide.
The train’s staff go out of their way to make you feel special, whatever the occasion. As you are piped aboard by a Scotsman in full regalia at Edinburgh’s Waverley Station, it is hard not to imagine yourself as a visiting dignitary.
Resist, if you can, the temptation to give a regal wave towards glum-faced commuters arriving on adjacent platforms. Clutch your bubbly in hand and head for the open-ended observation car, the epicentre of life on board the train. It’s a fantastic place to view the scenery and also a great place to find out a little more about your grandly-attired fellow passengers.
Laid out in the style of a hunting lodge with lots of subtle tweed and tartan covered tub chairs and sofas, it is impossible not to start a chat with your neighbour.
As the train’s nine carriages head northwards, the contrast between the rugged and sometimes barren mountains of the Scottish countryside and the sumptuous interior really hits home.
Following the brief getting-to-know-you session in the “obs car” the state rooms beckon. With twin cabin beds and a shower, the accommodation is snug, but in no way lacking in comfort, and again you could be plunged into the set of a period drama, with the panelled walls and extravagant drapes all adding to that welcome sense of detachment from modern life.
After a short time to investigate the facilities and unpack at leisure it’s time for the first of the excursions, which are included in the trip.
At Dalwhinnie Station we disembarked and were shown on to the Royal Scotsman motor-coach, a faithful companion throughout the trip, following the route of the train by road and allowing the passengers to reach parts of Scotland that Network Rail does not.
From here we were only minutes to Dalwhinnie Distillery, the highest in Scotland, where we were given a guided tour by a knowledgeable guide. Naturally, time was set aside for a tipple or two, in the name of research of course, before we rejoined the coach for a slightly longer return trip to Boat of Garten where the train was ‘stabled’ overnight.
But this was by no means the end of the day. Dinner is served in the Royal Scotsman’s two elegant dining cars and the food is as good as any fine restaurant. The quality is made all the more remarkable given the tiny galley kitchen in which it is prepared. The wines, chosen to accompany the meal by the onboard sommelier, are also outstanding.
After dining, we retired to the rear of the train for drinks and entertainment. Having started the day with a Scotsman in full modern piping regalia, it made an interesting contrast to end our evening with a traditionally-dressed Jacobite rebel regaling us with stories of the battlefields of his day. Ray Owen, the Highlander, managed to do what many consider to be impossible and made history interesting.
It was a struggle to finally retire and bid goodnight to the lively company.
After a hearty, three-course breakfast the next morning we set off for the first of the day’s activities – in our case clay pigeon shooting at the Rothiemurchus estate. Alternative pursuits were also on offer, such as a wildlife safari, a morning fishing or simply a walk in the countryside. All ages and abilities were catered for in the activities on offer, meaning you could do as much or as little as you liked.
After a sumptuous lunch on board the train, we managed to fit in some retail therapy at a cashmere mill before heading south for the return leg of the journey. In the evening, the breathtaking east coast of Scotland provided a spectacular, moving backdrop to a formal dinner. The diners may have been in best bib and tucker but the atmosphere could not have been more relaxed.
The following morning there was still time for some photo opportunities as the train travelled through the picturesque Kingdom of Fife and over the majestic Forth Bridge before completing the full circle back at Edinburgh Waverley.
Although the trip had lasted only two nights, it had the restorative qualities of a two-week break. And that is in no small part down to the timeless aspect of the surroundings, both inside and out of the train.
There is no television, radio or internet on board, and even mobile phone signals disappear for large parts of the journey. Once you’ve got over the initial withdrawal symptoms, it is strangely liberating to be able to enjoy life without the ‘benefits’ of modern technology.
But as we said our goodbyes on the platform, new-found friends from all over the world were already figuring out how they could e-mail one another for a re-union trip. All this new fangled technology must be good for something.
Iain Duff was a guest of Orient-Express onboard the Royal Scotsman, which offers a variety of overnight itineraries (from two to seven nights) from April to October.
In 2008, the two-night Highland itinerary starts at £1,740 per person, the four-night Classic itinerary starts at £3,190, which includes accommodation, all meals and alcohol onboard, excursions and entertainment on and off board.
Royal Scotsman reservations: 0845 077 2222 or www.royalscotsman.com
