Get your goat’s

By Marion Macfarlane

Published:

THE variety and range of goat’s cheese is immense. Some are young and mild with a grainy or chalky texture; others are meltingly creamy with the most delicate flavour, while more mature versions are hard or waxy. These aged ones develop a dry crust with a much more powerful, distinctive flavour. Whole cheeses come in all shapes and sizes, from simple rounds and logs to complex geometric shapes.

Although I love all goat’s cheese, I’m well aware that others do not. Perhaps they are just not aware of the exciting variety of tastes and textures they offer.

Delicatessens and supermarkets are now stocking a greatly expanded range of goat’s cheese, both home-produced and imported. Farmers’ markets in Scotland are also fantastic places for sourcing from small-scale producers, and you’ll often find young, rindless, soft versions or semi-soft ones with a downy rind.

The great thing about buying direct is that you are normally offered a wee taste so you know exactly what you are purchasing.

These soft cheeses are delicious eaten like cream cheese with soft fruits such as cherries, figs and berries. Try them with a drizzle of honey, or spread on crackers or oatcakes with fruity jam.

They can also be made into dips by beating in a little milk, fromage frais or creme fraiche. Flavour with finely chopped sun-dried tomatoes, marinated peppers, chilli or smoked salmon. Or swirl in a spoonful of fruity chutney for a tangy dip.

More mature goat’s cheese marries well with pears, grapes, walnuts and fruity chutneys – spiced apricot is my personal favourite. It almost goes without saying that walnut bread makes the ideal partner.

One of my favourite lunchtime salads is grilled goat’s cheese atop a pile of well dressed salad tossed with crunchy, hot pan-fried lardons or small morsels of streaky bacon and toasted walnuts – heaven on a plate.

Large, meaty mushrooms with a garlicky cheese filling, piping hot from the oven – what a great lunch or supper dish. Choose a smooth-textured, soft goat’s cheese and some large Portobello mushrooms. Drizzle the inside of the mushrooms with a little olive oil then stuff with a mixture of the goat’s cheese, fresh chopped herbs and crushed garlic.

A good grinding of black pepper, a sprinkle of Maldon sea salt and they’re ready to bake in a hot oven until the mushrooms are soft and the cheese melting and golden. Serve immediately with a dressed rocket or watercress salad.

Goat’s cheese marinated in olive oil and fresh herbs makes an elegant little cheese dish which is excellent served for lunch or as a first course.

Make the dressing by processing 150ml (¼pt) of extra virgin olive oil with a few sprigs of fresh parsley, some basil leaves, a tablespoon of chopped oregano, a fat garlic clove and the juice of half a lemon.

Cut 225g (8oz) of the semi-soft log-type cheese into slices and arrange in a dish in a single layer, then pour over the marinade and leave for a minimum of three hours – preferably overnight – basting occasionally.

Serve with baby salad leaves tossed with a little of the marinade and hot ciabatta bread. Any leftover herby marinade can be used to saute onions or peppers for a future meal.

Serves 4

I’m always delighted to discover new combinations of favourite ingredients. So when my friend, Alexa, prepared this tart for lunch one day, I knew I’d have to have the recipe.

The cutting and folding of the pastry edges is really simple when you get the hang of it.

Although goat’s cheese and walnut are perfect partners, so too are caramelised onions. Occasionally, I substitute them for the nut mixture in this recipe. Long, slow cooking of the onions – sometimes with a splash of balsamic vinegar – is the key to success.

Served with a dressed salad of baby leaves or crunchy chicory leaves glistening with walnut oil, either version makes a fine lunch.

50g (2oz) broken walnuts

A good handful of fresh parsley

1 small garlic clove, crushed

Pinch fresh or dried thyme

25g (1oz) butter

2 rounded tblspn freshly grated Parmesan

200g (7oz) ready-made puff pastry

1 small egg, beaten

200g (7oz) log-shaped goat’s cheese, cut into thick-ish slices

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Preheat the oven to 200C/400F/Gas Mark 6.

Whiz the walnuts, parsley, garlic, thyme, butter and Parmesan in a food processor until well blended.

Roll out the puff pastry to make a 25cm (10in) square and lift on to a greased baking tray. Using a sharp knife, cut two L-shaped cuts through the pastry about 2.5cm (1in) from the edge, leaving two opposite corners uncut.

Brush the pastry edges with a little water. Then carefully lift one cut outer corner and pull it across to the opposite inner pastry side, then pat it down gently. Repeat with the other cut strip to form an enclosed pastry case.

Prick the base and brush all over with the beaten egg. Spoon the nut mixture over the base, then top with the slices of cheese.

Bake in the hot oven for 20-25 minutes, until the pastry is golden and the cheese hot and bubbling.

Serves 4-5

Walnut oil blends perfectly with the peppery cheese, the creamy goat’s cheese and full-flavoured mushrooms. Spaghetti, fettuccine or tagliatelle are best for this recipe.

1 tblspn olive oil

2 shallots, finely chopped

3-4 tblspn walnut oil

110g (4oz) shiitake mushrooms, sliced

110g (4oz) oyster mushrooms, sliced

75g (3oz) walnut pieces

1 tspn dried oregano

80g pack peppered Boursin

110g (4oz) soft rindless (or a tub) goat’s cheese

2 tblspn finely chopped parsley

350g (12oz) pasta

Heat the olive oil and saute the shallots for a few minutes. Spoon in the walnut oil, add the mushrooms and cook until just soft, then add the walnut pieces with the oregano and cook until the nuts brown slightly. Stir to prevent them from sticking. Meanwhile cook the pasta according to the packet instructions.

When the pasta is ready, drain well and toss into the mushroom mixture, forking through until combined. Crumble both cheeses into the pasta, along with the parsley, stirring until the cheese melts and is evenly mixed through. Serve immediately.