Restaurant revolution

A new culinary star is hoping to shine at Kinloch Lodge Hotel, writes Claire McBain

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KINLOCH Lodge Hotel on Skye, already popular for its fantastic food created by award-winning chef and Press and Journal writer Lady Claire Macdonald, has a new star attraction in the form of Brazilian-born chef, Marcello Tully.

After working together in the past, Marcello, 38, has been described by Claire as a “kitchen revolutionary”.

They now plan to achieve a radically new framework and a new look for Kinloch, allowing a new generation of cooks to develop a full range of culinary skills.

Claire said: “It took us a long time to find the right person.

“We needed to find someone who shared our food ethos and philosophy and develop our menus at the hotel. We needed to find someone who could make a long-term commitment to the business.”

After training at London restaurant Le Gavroche with the Roux brothers, Marcello went on to become head chef at Home Rouxl for six years before leaving to work in the food development industry, improving menus and dishes for five London restaurants.

Later Marcello launched his own company creating dishes for, among others, British Airways and GNER.

After living in the bright lights of London, Skye offers a completely different environment but Marcello was keen to take on the challenge and make the move up north with his wife Claire and their two children.

He said: “The change is huge but I’m really enjoying it.

“My job is easy as I have a magnificent new kitchen and a fantastically enthusiastic team.”

Marcello chose to reinvent the traditions of the Kinloch Lodge kitchen due to his belief that to achieve, you need the right people around you.

He employs young chefs who share his passion for food but are inexperienced and will benefit from his training. This is advantageous for him because they are free of bad habits and are not afraid to adopt new concepts.

Marcello also aims to remove barriers between different parts of the restaurant.

“As far as I’m concerned, front of house is part of the kitchen. They have a passion and love for serving the same food we are passionate about making.”

Marcello also designed a new purpose-built kitchen to create more workspace.

“Before, it was a small domestic kitchen trying to be commercial. Now it’s a commercial kitchen,” said Marcello.

Menu changes are seasonal and developed using ideas from both Claire and Marcello.

He said: “I come up with the dish while running.

“It gives me time to work out recipes, using bits from other dishes and combining flavours and sauces in my head before actually making it.”

Marcello’s signature dishes include the best seller langoustine with scallops, and duck and black pudding.

He said: “I have the very best and freshest raw ingredients and we never skimp on quality.”

Kinloch Lodge Hotel focuses on local supplies. “Everything is cooked in-house,” said Marcello.

“Right down to the bread, scones, water biscuits for the cheese boards and shortbreads for the rooms. The only food we buy ready-made are sausages and black puddings but hopefully next year when the staff are more experienced, we could cook them in-house too.”

The straightforward type of cooking, leaning towards a French classical style, is topped off with an outstanding wine list, including traditional favourites and wine flights, an uncommon feature in Scotland, which offers a 50ml ‘taste’ of three exceptional wines, chosen specifically to complement the dish in question.

Marcello added that he sees this job as a long-term affair and aims to get as much recognition for the restaurant as he can by building on the outstanding quality that already existed at the Kinloch Lodge Hotel.