Slower pace of life
Taking a cruise down the peaceful waterways and canals of southern France turned out to be the ideal way to relax and explore the picturesque region, writes Darroch MacKay
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HUGE flocks of pink flamingoes, herds of beautiful grey-white horses and black fighting bulls are the dreamlike images which typify the wide marshland area of southern France known as the Camargue.
And there is no better way of experiencing this unique wildlife environment than from a modern, comfortable and airy cabin cruiser on one of the canals which cut through much of the region.
Offering high quality accommodation aboard a wide variety of self-drive cruiser types of all sizes, operators Le Boat specialise on a selection of canal routes in France, as well as in Germany, Italy, Ireland, Belgium, Holland and England, plus our own Caledonian Canal.
The route I favoured was in the area some 70 miles west of Marseilles, from one of the company’s local bases, in the little village of St Gilles, on a side-branch of the Canal du Rhone a Sete linking through to the Etang de Thau, a huge salt lake separated from the Mediterranean only by a strip of beach running for miles along the coast.
On arriving at the base, I was at first slightly apprehensive of the 46ft Salsa class cruiser lying alongside, but the English-speaking staff soon put any fears to rest as they ran through the boat’s handling procedures, including the use of her two bow-thrusters, which made negotiating even the tightest spots quite easy.
An hour later I was at the wheel, quietly slipping between canal banks draped in brightly-flowered creepers and forests of bamboo-like reeds in which snowy egrets fished and from which bright blue kingfishers darted across the water’s surface.
The boat had accommodation for a maximum of 10, but we had kept our party to seven, which left ample room for everyone to move around and enjoy some privacy.
Le Boat staff had also arranged for plenty of first-night supplies of local food and wine to be placed on board and dinner was ready as we pulled into the mediaeval walled town of Aigues Mortes, built in the 13th century by Louix IX of France as a launch site for the Seventh Crusade, but now, due to coastal silt build-up, several miles inland.
The township within the perfectly maintained walls and their massive defensive towers is like a living museum, albeit well-geared towards catering for tourists’ demands with fine restaurants and no shortage of gift shops.
One of the highlights of any visit to France is, of course, dinner, and an atmospheric restaurant on the canal banks provided delicious steaks from the area’s lean little black cattle and the strong, fruity local white wine.
Heading south, the next day’s destination was the seaside town of Palavas-les-Flot, where the canal began to run west close to the Mediterranean coast.
As is the case in many towns and villages in the area, the canal system takes you right into the centre of population. After the comparative isolation of the marshland it is quite an exciting change to sit and watch from the boat’s sun-deck locals and holidaymakers going about their business in the streets.
Very much geared up for families, Palavas is bright and colourful with many good cafes, bars and restaurants, as well as a fine sandy beach.
With its own small fishing fleet, many of the town’s restaurants specialise in fresh seafood, while a full range of watersports are available at the beach.
Having enjoyed the canal for several days, our next destination was the Etang de Thau, an expansive salt lake ringed by oyster farms and several small fishing villages.
After the close confines of the canal it is refreshing to find yourself in relatively open water, which provides a completely new dimension to the adventure.
Choosing the small town of Meze on the north shore as a base for the night, we made our way through the small craft dotted here and there, until arriving in a picturesque harbour ringed by seafood restaurants.
The locally-reared oysters are a speciality and live up to all expectations served in traditional local recipes.
As in most French towns, Meze has a fine square with the usual magnificent fountain – and a boulangerie which bakes your morning croissants as you wait.
The return journey to the canal was once again bathed in glorious sunshine – in fact the average temperature for the entire week in mid-September was 28C – as we re-entered the canal system and made for Port Ariane in the town of Lattes.
To our delight, the approach to Lattes involved careful steering through a winding section of the River Lez, offering glimpses of white horses and farms among the waterside reeds, with stork nests set high on poles by the local folk.
It was here that we encountered the only canal lock on the journey, quite small and delicate compared to the great iron and oak clad gates I have been used to on the Caledonian Canal.
It lay in a small water-filled diversion which avoided a picturesque weir.
It was obviously electrically operated, but no lock-keeper was on hand to open the gates, and it was only after much flipping of the French dictionary pages and scrutinising the notice board that we realised a phone call was needed.
Dialling the number, I managed to convey we were at the lock and required passage through.
To our astonishment, the lock immediately began to fill with water, apparently of its own accord, and, as it topped up, the gates creaked open to allow us on our way.
It was only as we passed through I noticed a closed-circuit TV camera watching our progress.
But the biggest surprise was yet to come.
On such a sleepy backwater, I had expected some equally rural town at Lattes, but, as we rounded the final corner, something quite different hoved into view.
The Port Ariane development was only built in the 1990s, offering chic housing apartments towering around a huge modern marina containing luxury craft of all descriptions.
Included in the development are shops and restaurants and plenty of other facilities for the weary boatman.
The return trip to St Gilles allowed further exploration of the communities along the waterways with ample chance for relaxed shopping for souvenirs and gifts.
Le Boat arrange taxis to and from points of arrival, such as airports and railway stations in the area, removing all the stress of travel link-ups.
Their English-speaking staff are both instructive and obliging and you are left with a feeling that they are keen your holiday becomes a treasured memory.
In our case it had been a magical trip, taking in a unique region with an exciting flavour very much of its own.
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