Chamonix the real deal

Fergal MacErlean and his family find stunning views, superb ski-ing and a host of other activities on offer in one of France’s most celebrated Alpine resorts

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PARALLEL, parallel, parallel” went the refrain from our ski instructor, Laurent. In the quiet morning air, his commands bounced from the snow-plastered slopes of La Flégère, high above the Chamonix valley.

The stunning view stretched from the viciously serrated aiguilles to the yawning gap filled by the Mer de Glace, one of the Alps’ longest glaciers. We were to discover more of its icy charms later in the week but, for now, we were being rapidly put through our paces, from relative novices to confidently tackling red runs.

We were blessed with the end-of-season conditions: huge banks of snow adorned the edge of the unusually quiet runs; some mornings it felt like we had the place to ourselves. My partner, Jackie, and I revelled in the calm.

Down in the valley, our two boys, Angus and Finn, were improving, too. Each morning we’d leave them with the French ski school, where they were fussed over by the motherly director. In the afternoons, we joined up with the children to explore – there was plenty to see.

Chamonix retains an authentic atmosphere and dedication to its mountaineering and ski-ing heritage that puts purpose-built resorts in the shade. Skis made their first French appearance here in 1876 when a set arrived from Norway. Its reputation as a winter resort was consolidated with the 1924 Winter Olympics and, from the 1960s, with the opening of the Grand Montets, became a mecca for extreme skiers – a status it still enjoys.

However, it’s also a fabulous location for families. Four small ski areas in the valley are ideal for beginners and young children. One, Le Savoy, was situated right outside our Savoyarde-style self-catering hotel. Directly behind it rose the mighty bulk of Mont Blanc; it was a wonderful sight when you pulled the curtains in the morning. Our favourite ski area was by the village of Le Tour at the head of the Chamonix valley. The beginners slopes of La Vormaine kept us entertained, especially a run with side jumps, which the children really loved. From there, we’d move up to Domaine de Balme.

Here we were delighted to find we could traverse right across the face of the rounded mountain on a series of curvy blue runs, ending with a pretty section through pine woods. From the far end, the Téte de Balme chairlift took us almost to the summit, at a height of 2,270m, with views into Switzerland and across to some incredibly jagged peaks. Our return saw us ski-ing through a whiteout. Thankfully, we’d had some good Scottish experience at the Lecht before we left. By the time we arrived, snow-plastered, at the return gondola station, we were practically the only snow skiers left on the slopes.

Other afternoons, we ambled round town, which has a mixture of outdoor shops, galleries and inviting cafes. A couple of winding streets and colourful Alpine stalls add to the atmosphere. Naturally, we checked out cosy eateries in the town – with the children tackling waffles laden in melted chocolate. And we tried out an Olympic-sized skating rink, where we got more exercise than we bargained for.

There was more to do than we expected, with indoor climbing and husky rides among the many activities on offer, but given that we had early rises every day, sometimes it was good to just enjoy a dip in the hotel pool and reheat in the sauna.

One major highlight for all the family was a trip to the Mer de Glace and its ice grotto, reached by a train that leaves from the centre of Chamonix. A rack-and-pinion railway, which celebrates its centenary this year, ascends 870m to an astonishing viewpoint above the glacier. The eye is drawn up the glacier’s icy back to the spectacular Grandes Jorasses – a beautifully proportioned and multi-spired collection of mountains.

A short gondola ride and a series of steps lead down to the mouth of this seven-kilometre long ice mass, which slides downhill at the rate of a centimetre an hour. The ice grotto offers a rare chance to walk inside a glacier and experience its translucent blue walls. Sculptors re-create the grotto annually, adding artistic carvings.

Our last morning’s ski-ing was on the Brévent slopes. We were a bit disconcerted to discover we were going to ski a black run, from the summit, in the mist. But it all went splendidly downhill, with me only having one wobble and a crash headfirst into a snowbank. How they laughed.

Descending in the cable car, sadly for the last time, I asked our ski instructor where he came from.

In his finest French accent, he said: “I am from a beautiful little village in the middle of nowhere called Chamonix.”

We laughed, but Laurent, unusually, was quite serious.