Bullers of Buchan, Aberdeenshire
The rugged stretch of coastline running north-east from Cruden Bay is spectacular at any time of year, but high summer produces a sensory extravaganza that would give David Attenborough goosebumps.
The outrageously sculpted rocks and sea stacks are teeming with birdlife, a constant cacophony that drowns out the ebb and flow of the waves far below. It’s a picture of constant noise and movement, an avian typhoon with birds wheeling and circling overhead at dizzying speeds.
The spectacle is matched by the colour palette in the flora, a riot of yellow, pink and purple wildflowers, and in the thriving insect life. It’s a long time since I have seen such a number and variety of butterflies in one place.
I had intended walking from Cruden Bay to Boddam and returning by bus. It wasn’t long after I set out, however, that I decided I would simply turn around and retrace the whole route. There are some things that demand an immediate encore.
That decision turned out to be doubly fortunate, as the path remains closed nearer its northern end, a landslip above the inlet of Long Haven rendering it too perilous to proceed.
Cruden Bay was busy, the sun drawing the crowds, but the majority seemed to be there to see the ruins of Slains Castle, where the visiting Bram Stoker was said to have drawn inspiration for his Gothic horror tale, Dracula.
The jagged rocks jutting out of the water just below form a formidable barrier and on a dark, stormy night no doubt proved just as influential to the author, their notoriety for causing shipwrecks well recorded.
There was no need for garlic sandwiches on such a blue-sky day though, and I was soon in quieter territory heading along the path which twists and turns its way high above the sea.
The noise level was cranked up dramatically as the massive, separated rock of Dunbuy came into view, its hollow centre acting as an echo chamber for the thousands of birds occupying every square inch. The acoustics made it sound as though a giant sea monster was about to burst through the gap.
The view continues to impress all the way round to the cottages at Bullers of Buchan, but there are sections where you have to fight a way through surprisingly overgrown vegetation and a glance over the cliff edge is a reminder of the precipitous nature of the area. Those of a nervous disposition should stay tucked in to the left.
Bullers is said to derive from a Scots word meaning ‘rushing of water’ or from the French bouillir ‘to boil’, and the main attraction is the massive collapsed sea cave where the water rushes in through a huge natural arch. The sheer sides are packed wall to wall with nesting birds.
The path continues on its winding way, providing glimpses of hidden inlets where ebullient greens and bright blues are more akin to the Caribbean than Scotland.
There are rock steps to climb and flights of wooden steps with rope bannisters; there are poignant memorials to fishermen and climbers, always something of interest. There are one or two sudden turns but most of the time the path is obvious, and there are markers along the way.
A notice gives advance warning of the path closure further ahead but it’s worth carrying on round Long Haven to see the huge stack of Meikle Dumeath. And then you have the joy of doing it all again in reverse.
ROUTE
1. Leave parking area by path heading into trees and follow to Slains Castle.
2. Take gravel track to left of castle and after fence ends, look for stone steps on right going through gap in wall and follow path along older fence.
3. Head north until Dunbuy comes into view. As you get closer the path takes hard left turn by fence line.
4. The path wriggles its way round series of inlets, eventually reaching cottages at Bullers of Buchan.
5. You can reach the main road from here on track heading inland or retrace your steps to start. Otherwise, continue north on coastal path passing spectacular sea arches, then around inlets and stacks of North Haven.
6. Cross grassy track then stick by fence until meeting another track at signpost. Keep right to reach entrance gate and stile to Long Haven wildlife reserve.
7. The path joins another track, passing small quarry and concrete bunker and climbing rock steps before reaching lochan in larger quarry.
8. Follow fence line round, then drop and climb again by sets of wooden steps before swinging round the deep inlet of Long Haven to stone building.
9. This is far as you can go at the moment – a landslip above back of the inlet means the path onward to Boddam is in a dangerous condition and it has been fenced off. Retrace your steps to Cruden Bay.
INFORMATION
Distance: 15km/9.5miles
Ascent: 300m/980ft
Time: 4-5 hours
Grading: Clifftop coastal path, unprotected in sections above steep drops. Can be muddy and heavily overgrown in places. Good footwear recommended. Not advised for younger children; dogs should be kept under close control. NOTE: Path is currently closed due to landslip above Long Haven.
Start/finish: Main Street and Harbour Street parking, Cruden Bay (Grid ref: NK 092362).
Map: Ordnance Survey 1:50,000 Landranger Map 30 (Fraserburgh, Peterhead & Ellon); Ordnance Survey 1:25,000 Explorer sheet 427.
Tourist Information: VisitScotland, Aberdeen iCentre, 23 Union St, Aberdeen, AB11 5BP (01224 269180) Aberdeen@visitscotland.com
Public transport: Regular bus service to Cruden Bay – Aberdeen/Peterhead route (61, X60, X63).
