When you think about Braemar, what first springs to mind?
Perhaps it’s the stunning scenery, the iconic Highland Games or its strong Royal connections.
But hidden in plain sight in this resplendent rural community is one of the most priceless art collections in the world.
Usually displayed behind protective barriers in world famous museums, it may come as a surprise to learn that some of the most valuable paintings on earth can be enjoyed up close over a coffee.
Spanning an astonishing 14,000 objects including original Picassos, the jaw-dropping art collection is open for the public to see at The Fife Arms hotel in Braemar.
Enjoy a cuppa with Picasso at the Fife Arms in Braemar…
With a reputation for luxury and famous guests such as Hollywood legend Dame Judi Dench, it may be hard to believe that you don’t have to be a millionaire to enjoy their incredible collection.
But bringing iconic artwork – and amazing hospitality – to the local community for everyone to enjoy is part of the ethos behind the Fife Arms, says Lorraine Grant, the hotel’s head of arts and programming.
“The most expensive paintings aren’t tucked away in the most expensive suites,” says Lorraine.
“They’re peppered in the public spaces where day visitors and members of the local community can also come in and experience it.
“So you can enjoy a cup of tea underneath the Picasso.”
The Fife Arms in Braemar isn’t just for A-listers…
As someone who previously thought that the five star boutique hotel was off limits for anyone other than rich A-listers, I was intrigued to find out more about their amazing art collection.
And if anyone knows about the extensive art collection at the Fife Arms it’s Lorraine Grant.
With a lifetime of experience as an art curator, Lorraine not only has an encyclopaedic knowledge of the art collection but her passion for the pieces is palpable.
“Our collection spans around 14,000 objects,” says Lorraine.
“But that’s not all paintings, it also includes things like ceramics, the militaria, fine furniture and lots of taxidermy.
“But obviously art is really at the heart of everything.”
Hotel’s strong Royal links…
So what’s the story behind the Fife Arms and its extraordinary art?
Built in the 19th century by the pre-eminent Victorian architect Alexander Marshall Mackenzie, the Fife Arms is a B-listed Braemar landmark.
Its size is evidence of the popularity of Braemar in the wake of Queen Victoria’s visits and her purchase of Balmoral, just 15 minutes from the hotel.
Over the preceding years, the hotel had passed hands several times and as a result had lost some of its original charm and character.
Swiss art dealers fell in love with Braemar…
But its fortunes changed when Swiss art dealers Iwan and Manuela Wirth, who run the acclaimed global gallery, Hauser & Wirth, visited Braemar.
“Iwan and Manuela took up residence locally and fell in love with the village and its extraordinary heritage and stories,” says Lorraine.
“So they thought it would be wonderful if they could somehow bring the Fife Arms, this incredible Victorian property, back to its heyday and its former glory.
“And fortunately for us, they were in a position to do that.
“So they commenced a major redevelopment project – a really thorough root and branch re-invention and exploration of what the Fife Arms could and should be again.”
Get up close and personal to priceless artwork…
After four years and an astonishing makeover, the Fife Arms finally re-opened at the end of 2018.
“Iwan and Manuela brought it back to its former glory,” says Lorraine.
Intrigued to discover more about the artwork on display, Lorraine kindly gives me a guided art tour.
From the moment you step foot inside the historic hotel, it’s impossible not to notice the striking Picasso – Tête de Femme – on display in the lobby.
“It’s quite unusual to spend a lot of time with a piece like this,” says Lorraine.
“Normally, with a Picasso of this nature it would be in a museum or gallery with security guards, a barrier and you’d probably have lots of people with their iPhones out.
“Whereas here you can sit, have a drink and spend time with it like it’s in your own home.”
‘It’s an extraordinary example of art’
And just around the corner in the stunning drawing room is another original Picasso entitled ‘Nude and Man with a Pipe’.
“It’s hung low over the sofa so you’re really able to look at in a way you couldn’t do in a museum,” says Lorraine.
“It’s a magical/extraordinary example of where art comes into the Fife.”
As part of the hotel refurbishment, Iwan and Manuela also commissioned specific artists to make work inspired by the local landscape.
‘An incredibly immersive space’
One of the most eye-catching works of art is the hypnotic drawing room ceiling.
Created by the Chinese artist Zhang Enli, the extraordinary contemporary mural was inspired by Scottish agates and Cairngorm crystal.
“It’s a highly contemporary and dynamic piece,” says Lorraine.
“On paper, you probably wouldn’t think a very traditional tartan room with this extraordinary contemporary ceiling would work.
“But he has created this incredibly immersive space which relates to the landscape.”
Extraordinary art installations…
Equally as mesmerising is the ‘Red Deer Chandelier’ in the main lobby.
Created by the Los Angeles based artist Richard Jackson, the striking piece is composed of machine-milled enlarged replicas of bag pipe drones and glass antlers.
“It’s fun, it’s quirky, it’s dramatic and it’s extremely contemporary,” says Lorraine.
By far the most impressive chandelier though is the otherworldly one hanging in the Fire Room.
Contemporary art in historic hotel…
The brainchild of the Indian artist Subodh Gupta, the chandelier features glimmering pans, pots and pails, embellished with colourful bulbs.
“Subodh Gupta puts these everyday items into extraordinary installations,” says Lorraine.
“In doing so he’s thinking about issues of mass consumerism and excess production.
“So we have this extraordinary contemporary piece in a very historic environment.”
Royal connections…
Throughout the hotel, its close links with the royal family are also evident.
One of the most precious pieces is a pencil and watercolour stag sketched by Queen Victoria.
“This is a really beautiful sketch by Queen Victoria and it’s the first piece of art visitors see,” says Lorraine.
“What makes this piece even more special is that the inscription tells us this stag was shot by John Brown.
“He was the Queen’s ghillie, who was a very significant figure in her life.”
‘The hotel is part of this community’
Some of the other artists featured at the hotel include Turner prize winner Martin Creed and Louise Bourgeois.
So whether it’s a quick coffee, afternoon tea or a slap-up meal, Lorraine is keen to spread the word that the hotel and its artwork is there for everyone to enjoy.
“The hotel is part of this community, it’s not just situated in it,” says Lorraine.
Throughout the year, the hotel also organises community events including art sessions for children, a literary festival and a fashion event.
The Fife Arms is also currently offering art tours followed by afternoon tea for £55.
For more information about the Fife Arms, check out their website thefifearms.com or to book their art afternoon tea go to thefifearms.com/eat-drink/afternoon-tea/
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