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TV review: Food and history combine in Netflix’s High on the Hog

High on the Hog
High on the Hog

Food’s connection to the darkest parts of American history is explored in Netflix’s fascinating new documentary series High on the Hog.

Across its four parts, the show explains how some of America’s most popular
dishes and ingredients were born out of slavery and follows their origins all the way across the Atlantic to West Africa.

It’s a weighty, worthy topic, but thankfully it’s not four hours of misery.

Foodie viewers know that Netflix is the master of food documentaries and this is one of the best.

It helps that our guide to the subject is Stephen Satterfield, a soft-spoken chef and writer who isn’t afraid to let his emotions show, like when he’s reduced to tears at the site of a mass grave in west Africa.

While he may not have charisma of the late, great Anthony Bourdain – whose globe-trotting food odysseys this reminds me of – that doesn’t mean he isn’t willing to ask tough questions of some of the participants in the series.

Whether you’re there for the food or the history, High on the Hog strikes a good balance.”

In South Carolina, for example, he meets a rice producer and asks him about how it feels to be a white man profiting off a product that was originally grown by slaves.

These aren’t gotcha moments by any means, and Satterfield’s quiet and empathetic style allows these discussions to be had without the atmosphere turning sour.

Whether you’re there for the food or the history, High on the Hog strikes a good balance so that neither topic feeling like it’s playing second fiddle to the other.

A lot of food television can sometimes feel a little self-important, but this is nothing of the sort.

For centuries African American food pioneers have been unfairly whitewashed from history. Now though, thanks to High on the Hog, they are finally they are getting the recognition they deserve.

A refreshingly honest look at grief

Although Joey Essex has a personality that’s Marmite, to put it mildly, I suspect he’ll have won over quite a few folk after his heartfelt documentary Grief and Me on BBC1.

Despite his bubbly persona, there’s a secret pain he hides that all stems from the day his mum committed suicide when he was 10 years old.

Joey Essex

There’s always a danger with these types of celebrity-fronted programmes that it can feel a bit virtuous and self-serving, but this had none of that.

The issues affecting Joey will surely have struck a chord with thousands of viewers who have struggled to cope with grief and, hopefully, this refreshingly honest look at the topic will have helped them in some way.

Before We Die is no Line of Duty

For viewers used to pacy crime dramas like Line of Duty, I imagine Channel 4’s new cop show Before We Die is about as welcoming as a punch in the face.

I’ve been critical of Jed Mercurio’s BBC One smash hit, but this series is just so slow and downbeat that I can’t imagine why anyone would stick with it.

Lesley Sharp in Before We Die

Lesley Sharp, normally so good, flounders in the English language remake of a Swedish series that leans heavily into the moodiness of Scandi noir but has none of the charms.

She plays a top-ranking detective whose son is (improbably) the mole within a Croatian crime gang.

In the hands of Mercurio that set-up would be nerve-shredding, here it just gets on your nerves.

A Grand remodelling of UK show

Grand Designs is one of those shows that leaves me sick with jealously at the best of times, but throw in a sunny climate too and I may need a lie down.

Grand Designs Australia (More4) is exactly the same as the British version but with a lot more bright blue skies and outdoor living spaces that would be totally inappropriate in Blighty.
If you’re waiting for the new UK series to start, this is a grand placeholder.

Movie of the week: Sir Alex Ferguson: Never Give In (Amazon Prime)

The idea of me choosing to watch a documentary about a football manager is unlikely, to say the least. The idea of me actually enjoying said documentary is even rarer.

But this feature-length film about Alex Ferguson’s incredible career is good enough that even football-phobics like me can appreciate.

Alex Ferguson (left) and assistant Archie Knox led Aberdeen to the European glory in 1983.
Alex Ferguson (left) and assistant Archie Knox led Aberdeen to the European glory in 1983.

The fact it’s directed by his son Jason means this was never going to be as critical as some would like, but in the end, I think it works in the documentary’s favour because of how candidly he speaks about certain subjects.

Although the bulk of it focuses on his career at Manchester United, his glory days at Pittodrie get a fair chunk of the running time and it’s clear he still has a huge amount of affection for the club.

I was surprised how much I enjoyed this.