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Potarch Restaurant: A slice of history with your lunch

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I like a slice of history with my lunch and there was something particularly appetising here.

Potarch Café and Restaurant sits almost exactly on the spot where one of Scotland’s most outstanding and endearing athletic achievements took place. It was here that the iconic lifting and carrying of the famous Dinnie granite stones across nearby Potarch bridge over the River Dee took place.

It’s a legend that still lifts the spirits today – luring many brave souls to dream of emulating the challenge themselves, with a sinew-busting lurch across the width of the bridge and back with both stones.

Indeed, there was a proclamation pinned up on the wall at the entrance, alerting the public of the next three willing “victims”, who were planning an attempt the very next day.

In fact, not long after our visit, an American visitor smashed the record for lifting and holding the 733lb stones by almost three seconds. The P&J reported that he might return for the daunting full lift and carry challenge, which was originally made famous by superstar strongman Donald Dinnie in 1860.

We gazed respectfully at the famous stones as they nestled peacefully outside the cafe, giving no clue to the blood, sweat and tears that must have been spilled over them through the years.

This is a real heavyweight challenge – even bigger than Potarch Café’s marvellous scones, I would say.

What a wonderful attraction for this relative newcomer to the Aberdeenshire hospitality trail, which is part of Ballogie Estate.

Word has spread fast because there was brisk trade on the lunchtime we visited: a large group of mums and kids, and couples – rounded off later with a group of merry women of a certain age, who spilled out of a stretch limo that rolled up and were in excellent spirits.

It was a pleasant drive out from Aberdeen and, once past Banchory and Inchmarlo, we came across the impressive Thomas Telford bridge, off the A93, with the café lying just beyond that.

It is worth pausing a moment just to dwell on Potarch bridge, as many might pass over it without a second thought. It links Banchory and Kincardine O’Neil, but it also bridges that gap which lies between a functional civil engineering project and something which is aesthetically beautiful.

Built between 1811-13 by Telford as part of a package of bridges across the north of Scotland, this one stands out with its majestic triple arches. Times have not changed that much, however: public records apparently reveal locals had been campaigning for the bridge for more than 100 years – it puts the wait for Aberdeen’s bypass in the shade.

Potarch Café has a large, welcoming car park. The building has been restored in modern rustic style, with an estate lodge for paying guests next door.

With a wholesome menu offering sandwiches, soups, hot dishes and three-course meals, it has something for everyone. Friendliness also occupies a key place on the menu, and the staff were very warm and welcoming.

For starters, my wife chose prawns and crayfish in a Marie Rose sauce, served on a bed of lettuce with bread.

For me, a sumptuous tomato soup that was rich, thick and full of flavour. Fresh bread and butter came with it and it looked so good, my wife finished it off.

Crispy chicken fillets in a light batter followed, served with house salad and rustic fries.

A delicious six-ounce steak burger, topped with lettuce, tomato, onions and gherkins served with more rustic fries, onion rings, coleslaw and salad garnish completed the line-up.

We rounded off with New York-style cheesecake and the aforementioned scone.

The food was tasty and pleasing, with something for everyone, well-presented and delivered with a smile. What more can you ask?

With the picturesque river and play park close by, and plenty to do in the surrounding area, this must be a magnet for visitors.

You could even have a go at the Dinnie stones, if you’re in the right shape, but admiring them from a distance is safer. I passed up on the chance of giving them a lift (that old shoulder injury again), but it was certainly a weight off my mind.