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Shahi Darbar: Modern Indian cuisine is hot stuff

Pictures by Kami Thomson
Pictures by Kami Thomson

A few years ago, during a holiday to Florida with the kids, I spotted crocodile meat on a restaurant menu.

At last! An opportunity to crack the old gag: “Get me a crocodile sandwich – and make it snappy” swam into view.

But when the moment came, I was so bamboozled by the selection of accompanying salad dressings being offered, I forgot to make the quip.

Chef Habib Shaikh at work at the kitchen

I’ve kicked myself ever since.

Rather surprisingly, the opportunity arose again in Port Elphinstone, Inverurie, at the rather fabulous Shahi Darbar Indian Restaurant.

Our friendly and well informed waiter explained the chefs not only created fine dining-style dishes but were very creative and enjoyed offering meals made with exotic meats like camel, kangaroo, alpaca… and crocodile.

However, I didn’t get to utter the old gag as I was tempted by rabbit and venison instead.

Situated on Elphinstone Road, our first impressions were a tad underwhelming. Although there’s a handy car park at the rear, the restaurant doesn’t have great ‘kerb appeal’ while a big poster for the Ladyboys of Bangkok in an adjacent window didn’t do much to redress the balance.

But we stepped through the front door and found ourselves in a chic eatery with a sophisticated and elegant air. Decorated in neutral tones and dressed with pretty mirrors, tasteful ornaments, and with modern Indian music playing in the background, we felt instantly at ease.

The two waiters looking after us were nicely attentive and well informed when it came to answering our questions about the dishes.

There was an excellent array of starters to choose from, many away from the norm. I selected a healthy option choice, rabbit coconut fry, while my companion chose crab cakes.

My rabbit was elegantly presented on a piece of slate and it included a timbale of tandoori-style rabbit with hints of chilli, curry and coconut accompanied by veritable rainbow of colourful sauces including a sweet honey and mustard sauce and a vivid green coriander one. Accompanied by a raw veg salad, it was simply knockout.

The crab cakes were also a hit. A generous-sized portion, the cakes were packed with white crab meat and herb-infused potatoes, yet had heat to lift them well above the average fish cake.

Before accepting the order for my main course, venison Chettinad, flagged up as a hot dish, I was quizzed about how hot I liked my food. Having said I could handle a Madras with ease, I was warned that this was a very hot dish before being asked if I still wanted to place my order.

The tall, red chilli placed flagpole-like in the centre of the bowl of stew-like venison placed before me, served as another reminder this was a hot dish so it was with great caution that I tentatively scooped up the first mouthful.

What followed was an unusual sensory experience as initially it tasted peppery yet sweet, and not overly hot. But as I chewed the soft and tender meat, the tastebuds at the front of my mouth began doing a version of the Can-Can.

Mama mia it was hot, yet didn’t burn my mouth but made my lips tingle (just the way I like it). Lots of different flavours including cardomen, chilli, star anise and perhaps cinnamon, came through yet I still knew I was eating venison.

Now that’s clever cooking…

Across the table, there were lots of appreciative sounds coming from my guest, busy tucking into her Machchi Mango Curry, a traditional North Indian dish and another healthy option from the menu.

Served in a large white bowl, the dish included two large pieces of pan-fried sea bass, each with perfectly crisp skin, sitting on top of a bed of flavoursome rice and spiced potato, and surrounded by a brightly coloured, thick and delicious sauce made with coconut milk, green mangoes, mustard and five spice.

The mangoes added lots of sweetness while the mustardy spices went beautifully with the thick chunks of white sea bass.

To accompany these dishes we shared a bowl of pilau rice and a sweet, fresh and almondy peshwari naan which could not be faulted.

Earlier this year, the restaurant, which opened in 2015, picked up the Best Newcomer award at Aberdeen’s Best Curry Awards which followed on from last year’s award from the Scottish Curry Awards.

The restaurant is going from strength to strength as it lives up to its promise of delivering food that is delicious and unusual. Offering a modern take on Indian cuisine and with plenty of healthy and unusual options on offer, we will certainly come back again.

And next time, I may even get a chance to crack a terrible joke or two…