Lesley Taylor soaked up the fabulous views and fantastic food at Fonab Castle Hotel, in Perthshire
Location, location, location. Not the television programme, but this is how I would describe Fonab Castle, near Pitlochry, with unrivalled loch-side views surrounded by glorious forests.
Situated just off the A9, but with a winding driveway and tall trees, the beautiful pink stone castle nestles on the shore of Loch Faskally – a hidden gem in the heart of Perthshire. Built in 1892 by architect Andrew Heiton for Lt Col George Glas Sandeman, founder of the famous Sandeman port and sherry business, the castle was used as a British Red Cross auxiliary hospital from 1915 to 1918 and, from 1946, the property was used by the North of Scotland Hydro-Electric Board. It is now privately owned and opened as a luxury hotel in July last year. The hotel has 26 bedrooms, including four suites and a luxurious penthouse suite which offers exclusivity alongside its obvious comforts.
The hotel is close to Pitlochry and you can walk there in about 10 minutes. Pitlochry is a lovely Highland town, crammed full of interesting gift shops and fabulous cake shops. There is lots to do in the area, with an abundance of walks ranging from local strolls to challenging hikes, some with spectacular views. The hotel can organise many outdoor activities for the more adventurous, including rounds of golf, salmon fishing on the River Tay and white-water rafting.
We stayed in one of the castle’s superior rooms. After reaching our floor in the surprisingly jazzy blue-mirrored lift, we entered the beautifully appointed hotel room.
Sumptuous bedding and a king-size bed, a fabulous walk-in shower and quaint turret seating area added to the room that could be described only as Wow!
My husband, being a bit of a gadget man, didn’t waste any time making coffee in the Nespresso coffee machine, admiring the Bosch kettle and playing his own music on the hi-tech iPod docking system. Later, we relaxed in our complementary bathrobes in our exquisite turret seating area, sipping our gin and tonics before dinner.
Fonab has two restaurants: the Brasserie and the Sandeman’s on the Loch fine-dining restaurant. Sandeman’s opened in February this year and has received two AA rosettes already. However, we chose to dine that evening in the Brasserie. The Brasserie and upstairs lounge both have outstanding views of the loch, with full floor-to-ceiling windows that take advantage of the spectacular scenery and light. We lingered upstairs over our cocktails, enjoying the breathtaking scenery and sumptuous surroundings.
Large aubergine sofas interspersed with glass tables, a full wall of wines for wine lovers to linger over before dinner, and a white baby grand piano all added to the relaxed but classy atmosphere, before we headed downstairs for dinner.
The Brasserie is described on the hotel website as “good food in a laid-back atmosphere” and that is exactly what it is. We feasted on spicy chorizo with saffron butter, a perfect cheese soufflé, lamb with sweet potato croquettes and the finest fillet steak. I ooed and aahed as the dark chocolate oozed out of the perfect fondant dessert with Baileys ice cream while my husband devoured the strawberry fruit trifle, which he described as deliciously creamy and light as a feather.
The Brasserie is open from 11am until 9pm each night for high teas, lunches and coffees. They also provide a drive-and-dine service (they drive, you dine) for visitors staying at Pitlochry who want to come for an evening without taking the car. Produce is sourced locally wherever possible and the chefs even make their own bread and chocolate.
After a peaceful night’s sleep, we returned to The Brasserie for breakfast. At Fonab, there is no breakfast buffet, but an extensive breakfast menu including starters of fruit juices, cereals and fresh fruit. Main courses on offer include the full Scottish cooked breakfast, kippers or even steak.
I opted for toasted brioche with crispy bacon and maple syrup, while my husband chose the eggs benedict. Both were cooked to order while we relaxed, looking out at the spectacular views from our window seat. Washed down with tea, toast and locally produced marmalade, we had to admit that this was, indeed, a five-star breakfast.
Before checking out, we managed to catch up with the hotel owners, Mr and Mrs Clark.
Theirs is an interesting tale: In 2001, they happened to be driving past and spotted the for-sale sign. Mr Clark said he recognised the castle from an old Sandeman port bottle that his parents had when he was a small child and ended up buying it that day. It lay empty for 10 years while they worked on other projects, but they decided to refurbish it for their daughter’s wedding, after looking at lots of other suitable wedding venues, here and in Europe.
They stay at the hotel every other week and are very much involved with the day-to-day running of it. During a tour of the rooms, I was so impressed with Mrs Clark’s enthusiasm and passion for this gem of a hotel. She pointed out what every make of wallpaper was, where they purchased the chandeliers and why they chose each colour scheme. From glasses to cutlery, sheets to coffee cups, they were all chosen for the best look and quality possible.
They visit other hotels frequently to check out the competition and said they will not rest on their laurels. They remember what returning guests like and build up a guest portfolio to fulfil this. Future plans include a new meeting and conference centre and a health and leisure club and spa, opening later this year.
Sadly, we had to leave, but with promises we would love to return soon. Fonab proved a worthy recipient of its recent VisitScotland five-star award. We often say it is the small things that make the difference and this can be seen in abundance at Fonab. From the individually styled rooms, the concierge who nips out with the umbrella, the wonderful “turning down” service where slippers are placed at bedsides to the room numbers in braille for the visually impaired, this hotel truly delivers.
For more information visit the website www.fonabcastlehotel.com or telephone 01796 470140.