Michelin-star chef Tom Kitchin is a fan of foraging for Scottish girolles, known as golden chanterelles. They smell like fresh apricots and have a peppery taste. He suggests how to use them
Scottish girolles are one of my all-time favourite summer ingredients. Small, golden mushrooms, girolles are also sometimes referred to as golden chanterelles. They can be identified by their distinctive orange or yellow colour, meaty texture and funnel-shaped cap. They are very distinctive in appearance, in taste, and indeed in their scent, which makes them so wonderful to cook and enjoy.
If I get the chance, I just love to head out with friends and family to forage as often as I can while they are bang in season over summer. It can be a fantastic day out and knowing and seeing exactly where the produce comes from makes it taste all the better and you appreciate their flavour so much more. If you’re heading out foraging, just make sure you know where to look and what you’re looking for, or take someone with you who does. If you’re ever unsure when picking mushrooms, just leave it, it’s never worth risking. The very best time for foraging of mushrooms is after a rainy spell followed by a day or two of sunshine, so the recent weather has meant it’s looking to be a pretty good season so far. The joy of foraging is taking home all of the day’s efforts, then cooking and enjoying them as fresh as can be.
Although it’s quite light and delicate, the flavour you get from girolles is outstanding, almost fruity and quite peppery. The best way to enjoy them is very, very simply so you can really taste the natural flavour of this wonderful ingredient.
The smell of girolles is also quite unique and some have likened their smell to fresh apricots. They are often found in beech or birch woods so they tend to present quite an earthy, woody scent, reflecting their natural origins.
Sautéed girolles on toast is one of my favourite ways to eat mushrooms – it’s an easy recipe but a great way to make the most of their delicious flavour. I always remember eating them that way when we visited my nana’s house when I was younger. The flavours and simplicity of the delightful dish always take me back to those fond memories of summer.
SCOTTISH GIROLLES ON TOAST WITH
POACHED EGGS AND CHORIZO
1tsp vegetable oil
300g girolles, cooked
10 flat-leaf parsley leaves
2 sprigs of thyme, plus extra for garnish
1tbsp chopped chives
2 shallots, finely chopped
2 garlic cloves
100g chorizo, cut into thin strips
4 slices of thick crusty bread
Olive oil
100ml white wine vinegar
4 eggs
Salt and pepper
TO PREPARE THE MUSHROOMS
Heat a frying pan and add the vegetable oil. Add the girolles and cook them until golden. Then add the parsley, thyme, chives, shallots and one finely sliced garlic clove. Lastly, mix in the chorizo and season with salt and pepper to taste.
Meanwhile, grill the bread till crisp and rub with the other garlic clove, cut in half. Drizzle with oil.
TO POACH THE EGGS
Bring a large pan of water to the boil. Add the vinegar and stir to create a whirlpool effect. Crack each egg into a separate cup, then pour the eggs into the water and poach for about three minutes.
Remove the eggs from the pan with a slotted spoon and drain well.
PASTA WITH GIROLLES
Serves 4
500g girolles (cleaned)
1tbsp chopped garlic and parsley
1tbsp chopped bacon
1tbsp chopped shallot
100ml whipping cream
50ml chicken stock
10g butter
100g grated parmesan
In a pan of boiling salted water, cook the pasta. Drain and drizzle with a little olive oil so the pasta does not stick.
Heat a frying pan and add some oil, the girolles and salt. Cook with the lid on for 1-2 minutes, until there is a lot of liquid in the pan.
Drain the girolles but keep the liquid for the sauce. Return the liquid to the pan and reduce by three quarters. Add the cream and bring to the boil and reduce until thickened. Set aside.
Heat a separate frying pan. Add the butter, the bacon, shallots and cooked girolles. Season with salt and pepper and add the chopped garlic and parsley. Sautee for 1-2 minutes. Add the girolles to the reduced cream and then add the blanched pasta, the parmesan and serve.
If there is any left over, make a pasta bake the next day and serve with a green salad.
RISOTTO WITH GARLIC, GIROLLES,
PARSLEY AND CRISPY PARMA HAM
800ml chicken stock
100g butter
1 white onion, peeled and finely chopped
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
250g risotto rice
100ml white wine
Olive oil for cooking
8 slices of Parma ham
250g girolles, cleaned
2 garlic cloves, peeled and chopped
2tbsp chopped parsley
100g Parmesan, freshly grated, plus extra shavings to serve
Bring the chicken stock to the boil in a saucepan and keep it at a low simmer.
In another heavy-based saucepan, melt 50g of the butter, add the onion and sweat for 3-4 minutes to soften without colouring. Season with salt and pepper. Add the rice and stir to coat the grains in the butter. Cook for 1 minute, then pour in the white wine and let bubble to reduce right down.
Now start adding the stock, a ladleful (50–100ml) at a time, stirring and allowing each addition to be fully absorbed before adding the next. Continue to add the stock in this way until the rice is al dente (cooked but with a slight bite); this will take 15–17 minutes.
Meanwhile, heat a large non-stick frying pan over a medium-high heat and add a little olive oil. Fry the Parma ham in batches as necessary until crispy; remove and set aside.
Heat a little more oil in the pan and add the girolles with some seasoning. Cook over a medium-high heat for 1-2 minutes until tender; remove with a slotted spoon and set aside. Drain the liquid from the pan into the risotto.
Wipe the frying pan clean, add a little more oil and sauté the chopped garlic for a minute. Remove from the heat, add the crispy Parma ham slices, girolles and chopped parsley and set aside, ready for serving.
Once the risotto is cooked, remove the pan from the heat. Add the grated Parmesan and remaining 50g butter, in pieces, and fork through.
Divide the risotto between warm serving bowls and top with the girolles, crispy Parma ham, parsley and garlic. Finish with a few shavings of Parmesan.