Dining out for a special occasion should be an experience, especially when the restaurant is based within a five-star luxury hotel.
The price tag obviously has to match the surroundings and while some people will be fortunate to visit these kinds of restaurants more regularly, there are those of us, myself included, who keep moments like this for celebratory purposes.
The timing of my boyfriend and I’s trip north to Dornoch couldn’t have been more perfect. He’d applied for a job and was successful in receiving an offer, so it was time to celebrate.
Neither of us had visited the town before and for April, the weather was stunning. The sun was shining and a slight calm breeze teased at my hair. We checked in and had a full tour of this stunning house built in 1843 before sauntering down through the Royal Dornoch Golf Club course to go for a quick walk along Dornoch beach.
Dinner was at 7pm in the venue’s restaurant, Mara, which launched just over a year ago.
While the a la carte menu looked tempting, we couldn’t see past the six-course tasting menu.
After all, we had travelled three hours from Aberdeen and had built up an appetite after our walk.
The food
Arriving for dinner suited and booted, we enjoyed a glass of Champagne and a salmon canape in the lounge area next door to the restaurant in front of a burning fire.
This place oozes luxury and every detail of the hotel, right down to the statement door handles, had been considered.
When our table was ready we were led through into the dining room by the general manager, Phil Scott, who kindly talked us through the menu. We’d added the paired wines to the experience and Phil presented them and spoke about each one as each course arrived.
To kick things off some warm homemade bread with pumpkin seed oil and chicken skin butter was presented.
I was obsessed with the oil and the bread soaked it up beautifully. The saltier butter fought with the acidity of the zesty oil creating this delicious, mouth-watering flavour.
The first course on the menu we sampled was the mackerel with rhubarb and onion which came served with a white wine.
The fish itself was beautifully cooked and the rhubarb sauce it sat on top of and the small cubes of the fruit it was served with really brought out the saltier, creamy flavours of it.
The skin was crisp, just how I like it, and added texture to each mouthful while the rhubarb brought a little crunch.
Up next was the pork cheek with celeriac and apple which was also served with a white wine.
This was one of our favourites of the night as the meat was succulent and slipped away through my fork as I divided it up.
The celeriac puree it was served on had little chunks of sharp Granny Smith apple around it and the onion crumb on top allowed more layers of flavour to develop. With every bite it was more enjoyable and the micro herbs that garnished it added a pop of colour.
Another top contender for best dish was the crab tortellini with bisque. Presented with the same crumb on top, this dish was a work of art.
The flavour profiles of the meaty crab were beautifully balanced with the tangy bisque that the tortellini sat in. The pasta itself was soft but had an al dente bite to it which I loved. Drizzled with two or three different oils to once again layer the flavour explosion, it was very well balanced and not too rich.
Up next was the first red wine of the evening which came served with the hogget.
There was a small rack of the meat on the bone and a bon bon made with it, too, that graced the plate. The Jerusalem artichoke came in the form of a puree while a wild garlic oil had been subtly added to bring in those earthier notes to this impressive eat. It was very rich and there was quite a bit of fat around the edges of the hogget rack which I left.
The last two courses were dessert and both were served with a dessert wine.
The first was a small piece of the most delicious brioche which had been lightly fried and was served with foraged gorse flowers from the nearby beach and a syrup made for them. A dollop of Skyr yoghurt sat on top of a bed of biscuit crumb to the side of it.
It was decadently sweet and the white dessert wine really complemented the dish. It wasn’t too big either which meant it was gone in about two mouthfuls.
To finish the night it was another baked dessert, the salted caramel fondant with brown butter. It was served with ice cream which sat on top of a bed of white chocolate crumb which paired well with the sweet yet fruity red dessert wine.
This wine was incredibly potent and ended up being a little too sweet for my liking, given how sweet the dish was itself. The flavours did work, but I’d have preferred something a little lighter to drink to finish.
To end the meal we were treated to some petit fours. The first was a homemade chocolate truffle and the second was a gorse jelly sweetie, both made fresh that day.
Each dish was beautifully presented and the staff were incredibly knowledgeable about each and every course. I was very impressed with the way the restaurant operated and at no time did I feel rushed or think things were taking too long. The pace was perfect and they really paid attention to every guest, ensuring no one had an empty glass and wasn’t sitting with empty plates for too long.
The surroundings of the restaurant are gorgeous too. It plays on the venue’s passion of showcasing the best of the local land and sea and boasts hues of beige, blue and green throughout. Nodding to its Scottish heritage there’s a tinge of tartan, plus there’s mirrored accessories and artwork to feast your eyes on.
The main centrepiece to the restaurant is the fire fit in the middle which we were sat in front of for our meal. Our main concern was potentially getting too hot, but the staff were very attentive of it, ensuring they kept it alight without roasting diners.
Breakfast the next morning was also served in Mara, so it was nice to see it in a brighter light than the moodier, dimmer evening setting.
The views of the beach and golf course were breathtaking from our seats and I could easily have sat and watched the world go by all day.
I opted for the full Scottish featuring haggis, black pudding, sausage, Lorne sausage bacon, tomato, mushroom and scrambled egg, while my boyfriend tried the eggs hollandaise with smoked salmon. Both were sublime and well cooked.
The verdict
I was incredibly impressed with all aspects of Mara and Links House at Royal Dornoch.
Not only was the food utterly delicious, but it was the ambience, the knowledge of the team, and the attention to detail which really made the offering stand out from many other places I have had the pleasure of visiting.
While £100 is a lot of money, for an experience like the one they offer, it is certainly worth every penny, and the wine pairings is also a great addition, although not necessary.
I do think you’d most certainly enjoy the meal without the paired wines, but they do add to the experience.
If you are looking for a luxury getaway or live locally and fancy treating yourself, Mara is a great dining option.
Information
Address: Links House at Royal Dornoch, Golf Road, Dornoch IV25 3LW
T: 01862 810279
W: www.linkshousedornoch.com/dine/mara
Price: £100 per person. Guests can add paired wines for £50 per head. Customers can also enjoy two courses for £55 and three courses for £70 from the a la carte menu. Mara is open for dinner Wednesday to Sunday and a £3 donation for Trees For Life project in Glen Affric is included in the price.
Scores:
- Food: 5/5
- Service: 5/5
- Surroundings: 5/5
