Michelin-star chef Michael Smith, of the Three Chimneys in Skye, gives two old favourites a stylish makeover
Homemade soup simply cannot be beaten and every family has its own special recipe. The one thing that connects these soups is that they are never exactly the same twice, as the flavours will change depending on the season, ingredients, cooking time, etc. That’s especially true of a soup I like to refer to as “storecupboard soup” because it can be made with whatever ingredients you have available to you.
But as long as you have to hand a carrot, onion, celery or leek, tinned tomatoes or chick peas, pulses such as dried broth mix or lentil, stock cubes and spices – you don’t need all these ingredients, just a few of them – you can make a flavoursome and filling homemade soup.
Today’s recipe pays homage to my late mother-in-law, Monique – who was French but cooked with a north African influence – and features Ras el Hanout, a fantastic spice which adds a hint of exotic African flavour to the soup. Don’t feel restricted to use this as spices such as cumin, coriander, cinnamon and ginger can all be added, which is why no two pots of soup will ever taste the same.
Sometimes all you want is a soup and pudding lunch, and to follow I’ve created a pud that is based on a lemon meringue pie, but uses forced British rhubarb which is in season just now. Forced rhubarb (grown under pots in the ‘Rhubarb Triangle’ in Yorkshire) is a great British seasonal produce, and seeing pink rhubarb in the shops serves as a reminder that spring is well on the way.
HARIRA-INSPIRED STORECUPBOARD SOUP
- 1 onion, carrot, celery stick, and a half leek diced
2 cloves garlic, finely grated
1 tin chopped tomatoes
1 tin cooked chickpeas or lentils or any pulses
100g rice or vermicelli
1 1/2 tsp Ras El Hanout or medium curry powder
Half tsp smoked paprika
Half tsp each of cumin & coriander & ginger
Any leftover cooked meats, diced (optional)
1 1/2 litres stock (according to preference)
Salt and pepper
Fresh, chopped parsley or coriander to garnish
On a medium heat, begin to cook the diced vegetables in a deep pot in a little oil (any) until slightly soft. Add the grated garlic and mix well for one minute. Now add in the spices and mix in for another minute. Add the pulses, tomatoes, rice and meat (if using). Season well. Now pour in the stock and simmer for 1-1 1/2 hours. Check the seasoning, serve in bowls sprinkled with the freshly chopped herbs.
RHUBARB CUSTARD MERINGUE PIE
- SERVES 6
- 1 pre-cooked tart case (sweet) or 6 individual tart cases
- 600g rhubarb
- FOR THE CUSTARD:
- 200g caster sugar
- 180ml evaporated milk
- 2 tbsp plain flour
- Pinch salt
- Seeds from 1 vanilla pod, or 1tsp vanilla extract
- 3 egg yolks (whites are for the meringue)
- FOR THE MERINGUE:
- 3 egg whites
- 6tbsp caster sugar
- 2tsp cornflour
Clean and chop the rhubarb into small cubes and fill the cases three quarters full. In a bowl, mix all the custard ingredients together thoroughly and pour over the rhubarb. Bake in a pre-heated oven at 180C for 10 minutes then lower to 150C until the custard is set, if a little wobbly. Once set, remove aside and turn the oven temperature up to 180C again.
While the pie is baking you can prepare the meringue. With a hand blender, whisk the egg whites until soft peaks form. Gradually whisk in the sugar, 1tbsp at a time, until the peaks hold and are stiff. Finally, whisk in the cornflour. Spread the meringue over the rhubarb and custard filling, taking care to cover right to the edges.
To finish, make some swirls on top. Return to the oven until the meringue has begun to become crisp and golden.