They might call themselves the Cowshed, but don’t be put off. It’s a palace of delights, with good food, service and relaxing views across Deeside.
We managed to resist the attractions of a large garden centre on the road towards our Sunday lunchtime destination, even although the possibility of a new hydrangea had been playing on my mind for days.
Yes, I do lead quite an exciting life: would it be a pink one or a purple one? But I’d heard hydrangeas eventually make up their own minds over what colour they want to be, depending on the soil.
Now we were sweeping into the Cowshed car park, at Raemoir Road, Banchory, and could see what appeared to be a very well-appointed kitchen through the windows. I discovered later that this was where the Cowshed also runs its popular cook school.
With celebrity chefs appearing on our televisions faster than a souffle rising to the occasion, a new spin-off industry was born: you can now learn the tricks of the trade in cook schools, which pepper the culinary landscape.
The Cowshed, for example, teaches a range of skills, including speciality barbecue courses through the Weber® Grill Academy, the only one of its kind in Scotland, which is part of the famous US brand.
Under the leadership of head chef Graham Buchan, the school has a purpose-built barbecue area that allows them to run a range of classes without worrying about the weather.
Everything you ever wanted to know about grilling, roasting and baking on the barbecue is at your fingertips, from risottos to roasts.
Just being able to light one and keep it going at the right temperature would be an achievement for me.
But for us, it was a sit back and be pampered day, with the friendly Cowshed staff doing all the work.
As soon as we breezed into the spacious, light and airy dining room, the waiting staff made us feel very relaxed and welcome. They placed us at a sunny table by the window, with a great view across gently rolling fields and hills. A large painting on the wall, of the same view, showed that someone else had liked the scene, too.
Sitting on the site of a former dairy, it gets its name from an old cowshed in a nearby field.
You don’t have to think too hard about what to choose on Sundays as the Cowshed’s simple straightforward food makes it easy, backed up by quality produce from a range of local suppliers.
I had an impression that previous perceptions were that the Cowshed was an upmarket, fine-dining establishment, but they seem to be trying to shake that image off and move into mainstream, quality country-dining territory.
The competition is tough, of course: there are any number of top-quality north-east eating places vying for the same slice of the action. Trade was brisk on the Sunday lunchtime we visited, with a good mix of ages, from couples to small family groups.
For starters, soup of the day, with an Asian twist, and Atlantic prawn salad. My vegetable soup was a tasty surprise: it had hints of curry and lemongrass, but was not overdone nor too spicy.
The main course was also something different for us: we picked the roast meat sharing board for two – and it was a real treat. It seemed other diners knew all about its delights, too, judging by the rate at which they were leaving the kitchen.
We were delighted before we even tasted it, as it was presented so well on its board: juicy cuts of Scotch rump beef sat alongside a plump, moist and tender chicken breast, and all packed with deep, rich flavours.
It was no surprise to learn that the family-owned Cowshed was a member of the Scottish Beef Club.
Two Yorkshire puddings, offering a resting place for a gravy and potato mixture on top, also sat on the board. Some deliciously crisp and fluffy roast potatoes, along with vegetables, rounded it off.
It was a sumptuous Sunday lunch with a difference and we really enjoyed it. Excellent sticky toffee pudding and lemon tart ensured we departed in high spirits and well satisfied.
We just had to make one more call on our return journey – and I am happy to report that our new hydrangea is doing well.