Considering it started life selling ices, it was perhaps fitting that when I finally got round to visiting the restaurant at The Dairy at Daviot, the talk was very much about ice and icicles.
Not the lolly type of icicles but the variety of crystal clear ice chandeliers made by Mother Nature and suspended from numerous crags, rocky outposts and waterfalls which were attracting admiring views from those driving along the A9 between Inverness and Perth.
Situated a few miles south of Inverness and easily reached from the A9, the Dairy at Daviot was looking warm and welcoming as we gingerly made our way along the snow-packed drive to the large car park from where there are fine views across the open countryside.
Because of the snow, the super children’s play park next to the Dairy was child-free, but I’d imagine it’s a hive of activity on fine days and something of a big draw for families with youngsters. I made a mental note to take my wee grandson here the next time he’s in town.
The Dairy is part of a private estate and the ice-cream parlour and restaurant were created from a converted 19th century farm steading. On fine days there’s a lovely cobbled courtyard to sit in but on chilly days the restaurant with its big wood-burning stove, large windows and cathedral-style ceiling is the place to be. It can get pretty busy here but we didn’t have to wait long before a friendly young waitress showed us to a table.
Run by a fourth generation farming family, the food on the menu is freshly prepared to order which may mean having to wait a wee while, but we didn’t feel we had a long wait before our starters arrived. There was a nice selection to choose from including two soups, Cullen Skink and yellow pea and ham. As tempting as they sounded, I ordered the twice-baked Connage cheese souffle because I know the cheese made by the Ardersier-based dairy is good, and I love a souffle.
My partner plumped for the Loch Eribol crab and prawn spring roll with oriental salad, chilli jam and crispy noodles. The dish was nicely presented with two large Chinese-style spring rolls filled with plenty of crispy vegetables, crab meat and prawns while the mixed leaf salad, which I also had with my souffle, was nicely dressed with just the right amount of vinegar and oil. My souffle, a notoriously difficult thing to make, was served in a high-sided bowl which was roasting hot, so it came as a surprise to find the souffle was a little cool although it had a nice balance of cream and cheese flavours.
I was delighted to find lots of local produce featuring on the menu with fish and meat from local outlets being flagged up. But on this occasion we both went for vegetarian dishes. Spinach and roast pepper lasagne for myself and the caramelised onion and potato hash with crispy deep-fried hen’s egg for my partner.
We’d expected the hash to resemble stovies, but instead it had been shaped and coated to form two large croquettes. Although tasty, he perhaps wouldn’t have ordered it had he known it was going to be this style. The star of this show was the deep-fried hen’s egg. The combination of perfectly cooked egg and light, crispy batter was an absolute winner – innovative and tasty.
My lasagne was knock-out – and served piping hot. Between the layers of perfectly cooked pasta were nice chunks of roast peppers and spinach in a sweet, tomato sauce. The dish included a good portion of chips, salad and a slice of buttery garlic bread, all of which hit the mark and was so filling I couldn’t find space to try one of the ice creams this venue is famous for.
Enjoying the wintry views outside from the warmth of the restaurant, we declined dessert but instead settled down with coffee before returning to the great outdoors.
The Dairy is a nice addition to the Highland restaurant scene and by way of a bonus, when you head back into the city, you’re rewarded with panoramic views across towards the Black Isle, Moray Firth and beyond.