How quickly time goes. As we pulled into the drive of the beautifully lit Cluny Bank Hotel in Forres, it came as a shock to realise 12 years had passed since I’d last been here with my children.
They tower over me these days and would doubtless make light of the slightly steep stairs leading to the hotel, whereas I puffed away like an old boddach.
A restorative gin and tonic soon put colour in my cheeks as did the fire burning merrily away in the stylish bar where we relaxed, perused the menu and nibbled on a nice selection of complimentary olives and nuts.
Hand on heart, I could have sat there all night. Housed in an historic listed building, the hotel is owned by Lloyd and Julia Kenny who have kept many of the beautiful, original features while giving the Victorian mansion a stylish, modern-country look.
Soft cushions and lighting, comfy seats and bar shelves groaning under the weight of local whiskies make it a welcoming place to spend time.
Both Lloyd, who is chef here, and Julia made several appearances. Genial hosts with years of experience in the hospitality industry, they made us feel special and very welcome. Between their hosting skills, service and food, our evening ranked as one of my best dining experiences in a while.
Dinner is served in Franklin’s Restaurant, a beautiful bay-windowed room lit largely by candles while the glow from the fire creates interesting shapes on the walls. If you’re looking for a romantic place to dine, this is it.
From a selection of six starters my partner plumped for a spicy tomato and smoked salmon soup. It sounded like soup we’d eaten in Europe so came as no surprise to learn Lloyd had lived in Spain for several years.
The menu was full of interesting dishes including pigeon pastrami, marinated halibut and squid salad, parsnip marrowbone, crab beignets and the dish I selected, mini hare suet pudding with garden peas.
But before tucking in we were presented with a complimentary amuse bouche, two hot cherry tomatoes in a sweet sauce served with a tangy Parmesan crisp, which whetted our appetites nicely.
The soup was delicious, with just the right level of heat ensuring the sweet flavour of the tomatoes and salmon weren’t overpowered.
Beautifully presented, my timbale-style suet pudding was first-class. Deliciously light while the dark hare meat and gravy had the most wonderful, rich gamey flavour. 10 out of 10 for this starter.
Equally good were the main course offerings, poached Hebridean hogget, chorizo-crusted monkfish tail and quail breast.
My other half ordered grilled cod with a free-range poached egg, chive and butter sauce and wilted chard while I ordered pan-fried Sika Deer with game sauce and cranberries marinated in a port and orange sauce.
Both dishes came with a lovely selection of sides including a large bowl of mixed veg (carrots, cauliflower, mange tout) cut into teeny pieces, plus rosemary-flavoured roasties and another star of the night, potato beignets. The latter, mashed potato mixed with choux pastry before being deep fried were a revelation and ridiculously moreish.
The Sika steaks were tender and perfectly cooked while the game sauce and fat, juicy cranberries with their hint of zing, added levels of flavour that had my tastebuds dancing for joy.
The cod was thick, white and sweet and the buttery sauce divine. While the egg was tasty the dish didn’t really need it. Not a complaint, just an observation.
After a suitable breathing space we decided to go the whole hog and order desserts. There’s no printed menu, instead Lloyd comes out of the kitchen, hunkers down and talks us through the selection of sweets he has prepared.
They sounded wonderful but by the time he’d finished I’d forgotten what he’d said at the start (remember, old boddach here). After a brief re-cap I ordered a lemon and grapefruit mousse served with mango puree and poached pears, while him indoors ordered creme brulee made with tonka beans.
Again, and much to our delight, we were presented with another amuse bouche, this time a pre-dessert pina colada-style treat made with fresh pineapple, Malibu and a cloud-like foam which injected a hint of the Caribbean into the night.
Both desserts were heavenly as was the time we spent in the bar post-dinner where we drank coffee, ate tablet and sipped a rather fine local whisky before my other half gallantly lent me an arm to help me tackle those steep steps once more.
Cluny Bank Hotel and Franklin’s Restaurant, 69 St Leonard’s Road, Forres. Phone 01309 674304.
