If a lifelong love affair with snow sports compels you to seek out different ski resorts, then it pays to unpack your preconceptions as you pack your suitcase.
Indeed, you really have to set aside what you think you know about a place and dare to re-examine popular myths.
Admittedly, when I headed to Val d’Isère late last ski season in the company of my 13-year-old son, I considered this particular French resort to be the preserve of the super-rich and first impressions did little to disabuse me of that notion. The heart of the town has a parade of shops stocked with fur coats, diamonds and designer goods, at vertiginous prices.
Then we arrived at Le Fornet where we were to be based for a week. It is a tiny hamlet straddled on either side of an icy river and although it is the place where skiing originated in the vast expanse that makes up the Espace Killy Region, it is completely devoid of concrete monstrosities. Wood, stone and slate are the building materials of choice and it all adds up to a little slice of Alpine perfection.
We were guests of a company called Ski Total who specialise in chalet holidays and who have fine-tuned all the key elements that make for a wonderful holiday. We stepped into the Chalet Bonnevie and were greeted by a smiling chalet host and the aroma of freshly baked lemon drizzle cake.
Chalet holidays are the sociable option and we were happy to make the acquaintance of a mother holidaying in the company of her three teenaged children and a young couple from Aberdeen. Our room, in keeping with the rest of the chalet, combined tradition with comfort. It had exposed beams, wood panelling and an en-suite bathroom, complete with a full sized bath tub and heated towel rail.
Although our choice of destination was something of a gamble, it turned out that Val d’Isère is a good bet when it comes to skiing late in the season. The high altitude combined with a localised weather system ensures that bounteous amounts of snow fall here outside peak months (so it is ideal for an early ski holiday too).
When Ruairidh and I made it on to the slopes after a peaceful night’s sleep and a hearty breakfast we were not disappointed. There were some signs that the mountains were casting off their winter chrysalis. Blades of naked rock formed serrated ridges that sliced the skyline. Fortunately, there was still a superhighway of snow-covered slopes on which to ski and we were able to spend hours exploring them together.
When it came to securing expert tuition in order to improve our skills, our paths diverged. Ruairidh signed up for group lessons with Oxygene Ski School. His dynamic Italian instructor was able to lead his pupils down ever more daring slopes and keep up the all-important fun factor.
I, meanwhile, stuck with a tried and tested formula for navigating my way around the Alps, that involves hooking up with the Scottish expat community. Val d’Isère has attracted many Scots over the years and quite a number have made it their home.
I booked a private lesson with Scottish skier Murray Howie, who learned to ski on a dry slope in Edinburgh and now spends his summers coaching professionals. His passion for the sport led him to Val d’Isère where he has established his own company and where he works all season.
We spent a pleasant afternoon together and I benefited from his relaxed approach to tuition. Murray made sure that we had time to talk and to enjoy the spring sunshine. His expert tips were tactfully inserted into the conversation at easy intervals.
Another Scot, Jock Dunn, runs Snowberry, a ski rental company situated in the heart of the resort. He rented us ski equipment and prides himself on providing holidaymakers with the best of gear and an expert fitting service.
Jock took some time out from his day job to guide me round some of his favourite runs. His enthusiasm for the place where he has chosen to carve out a career and raise his family led me to see Val d’Isère through his eyes. Soon I was imagining the carpet of Alpine flowers that would soon erupt from the mountainside when the snow melted.
David McArthur, a property developer with family connections to Dunoon who has lived in Val d’Isère for almost 40 years put it this way. He said, “People come here for the winters and stay for the summers.”
Over the course of the week our days fell into a pleasing pattern of vigorous en piste exploration punctuated by some memorable meals. Lunch varied from a sandwich consumed outdoors to a special visit to the bistro section of Michelin starred restaurant, L’Atelier D’Emond, in Le Fornet, where we were treated to world class fare at around £20 for two courses.
Back at the chalet, we were greeted with fresh cake each afternoon. Then the chalet host kick started preparations for a four course meal while we guests eased our aching limbs by visiting the local leisure centre, seeking out a bar or simply resting in front of the fire. It all added up to a luxurious experience at an affordable price.
Ruairidh and I have yet to decide where this coming ski season will take us but we are clear about one thing.
We will not let our preconceptions about what a resort might be like stop us from actually going there to find out for ourselves.
TRAVEL FACTS
Ski Total (skitotal.com / 01483 791 933) is offering a week-long stay at Chalet Bonnevie in Val d’Isère from just £688pp for departures on January 8, 2017, based on two sharing on half board basis with wine. Departures are from Edinburgh.
A week’s ski pass for Espace Killy costs from 278 Euros per week. http://www.valdisere.ski/en/
Ski hire from Snowberry http://www.snowberry-valdisere.com
Tuition from Murray Howie http://www.murrayhowie
skiing.com and Oxygene https://oxygene-ski.com/en/
val-disere/
