Now is a perfect time to think about some Easter ski-ing.
Sonja Cox suggests a short but spectacular break in Norway – but don’t expect to keep your feet firmly on the ground
Where can you find top quality skiing just a short flight away from Aberdeen? Norway.
Voss, to be precise. This fantastic ski resort in the heart of the fjords is only 60 miles from Bergen, where you can fly to direct with Widerøe in an hour.
Voss is one of the most natural snow-reliable ski destinations in the country, with long traditions of Olympic and world championship medal winners – and it’s so easy to get to from Scotland.
Our short break started in Bergen on a Sunday afternoon. We picked up our Avis rental car and had a leisurely drive to the resort through beautiful mountainous landscapes on some very easy roads. When we weren’t driving through long tunnels, we feasted our eyes on dramatic waterfalls, crystal-clear fjords, majestic mountains and spectacular glaciers.
As our altitude increased so did the length of the icicles hanging from the cliffs at the roadside, which made the journey so much more exciting. The temperature outside was in minus figures yet the road surfaces seemed safe; they really were amazing.
We passed through Voss town to find our hotel, Myrkdalen Mountain Resort, the largest ski resort in western Norway, with family-friendly ski areas, slopes with all levels of difficulty, terrain parks, ski cross slopes and great off-piste terrain with 17 miles of groomed cross-country trails.
Once we checked in at Myrkdalen Hotel (which is well signposted and has a perfect location with ski-in/ski-out access) we picked up our skis and lift passes from the shop at the hotel.
It was all very easy, and after enjoying the (white) mountain views from our room, it was not long before we were sitting down to a fine Norwegian supper.
Myrkdalen is a modern hotel with a great location for nature-based activities. In summer the area offers a variety of hiking trails, adrenaline-filled activities and the idyllic Sogne Fjord and Nærøy Fjord are close by.
It has many different rooms to choose from, varying from adjoining family rooms to an elegant suite. All rooms have beautiful colour schemes and exquisite detailing. There are three restaurants, two playrooms for children and two bars.
Not that people drink too much in Norway. The alcohol laws are quite strict, but the supermarkets have had a wide range of beer. Note that it’s only sold before 8pm on weekdays or 6pm on Saturdays, and for wine, spirits or strong beer, you must visit one of the Vinmonopolet outlets found in most large cities and towns.
They are proud of their beer culture in Voss, and the bars at Voss Resort and Myrkdalen Hotel host great après-ski during Easter, Christmas and all weekends throughout winter.
The Norwegian hero of Viking times, Olav Tryggvason, got people drunk so he could set fire to their houses if they refused to become Christians! But times have moved on.
Myrkdalen has two chairlifts right next to the hotel, three T-bar lifts, three disc lifts, a magic carpet, 22 varied slopes and plenty of green runs which we loved. Most ski slopes are wide and open which makes it a perfect place to learn to ski, too.
There’s a children’s area at the base of the ski resort, right next to Myrkdalsstovo cafe, with easy access to parking and the hotel.
If you like ski-ing off-piste, close to the resort there are many groomed cross country ski-ing slopes with great terrain.
We found Norway surprisingly quiet in February, which is a massive advantage as you don’t have to queue for the chairlifts, or panic about too many skiers/snowboarders hurtling about around you.
Myrkdalen is open every day until May 1, and is currently offering a special midweek price of NOK 995 (£96) per person in a double room, including breakfast and a two-day lift pass.
We enjoyed a fantastic day’s ski-ing here, with blue skies, bright sunshine and excellent conditions.
After breakfast the next day we headed straight to our next port of call – Voss Resort, about 30 minutes away by car, and only three miles from Voss town centre. It was slightly harder to find – blame the satnav – but it’s perfectly situated on the snowy mountains of Voss’s main ski area.
After checking in at Voss Resort’s reception, we carried on uphill to find our luxurious ski-in, ski-out cabin. We had bought some food (and beer) at the local store in Voss, as there are great kitchens in the cabins and we wanted to make the most of them.
At Voss Resort there are beautifully groomed ski slopes, and some lovely blue runs. It’s well equipped with 10 ski lifts, 23 ski slopes including an international giant slalom and SuperG slope, and several areas for off-piste ski-ing.
Along with the groomed cross-country trails, there are also three areas dedicated to children, a ski school and ski rental shop, two terrain parks, and plenty of snow makers to ensure some white stuff in all parts of the resort during the entire season.
There are four restaurants in the resort, which sits between the Hardanger and Sognefjords, making it an ideal base to explore as well as participate in the many activities available in the surrounding area.
Voss Resort has modern, self-service cabins and apartments for rent throughout the year and all have spectacular views over mountains, lakes and rivers. They are very well-equipped buildings with the nature and mountains right on your doorstep.
It was such a novelty to reach our ski run by swishing downhill straight from our door. There was even a frozen stream right beside our cabin which was great fun for the little one to slide down.
The cabins range from two-bedroom to three-bedroom, with or without a sauna, and have TVs, luxury bathrooms, living room, kitchen and wood-burning stove. Prices vary depending on season, but one night (April 12) in a two-bedroom cottage with sauna, sleeping six adults, costs £190. That’s good value for a family.
After a delightful morning ski-ing (we almost had the slopes to ourselves) we checked out of Voss Resort at 11am, heading back down the mountain to the final stop on our itinerary – and the most exciting for our seven-year-old daughter – the indoor flying tunnel in Voss.
Voss Vind is Norway’s only vertical wind tunnel with tempered air-circulation. At 98ft high, the tunnel allows you to enjoy freefall in a safe flying chamber which is basically a big space above a very strong fan, blowing wind so hard you can hardly close your mouth!
Almost anyone can fly, but the age limit is five years, and there’s a weight limit of 19 stone. You wear trainers or a pair of light shoes that tie tightly onto your feet, and you’re given a flight suit, helmet and goggles. You fly for about two minutes (with the help of an instructor), take a break, then go up again for two minutes. People can get addicted to it – and who didn’t dream of flying when they were little? If you do one thing before you die, try indoor flying.
After our breathtaking wind tunnel experience, we headed back to Bergen airport, dropped off the rental car and had plenty of time to peruse the shops and restaurants until our 17:50 departure back to Aberdeen. Widerøe has two daily departures between Aberdeen and Bergen Monday-Friday, and one departure on Sundays.
Depending on the snow, the ski season normally ends in April after the Easter holidays, so go now, or book for your Christmas ski holiday.
It’s easy as pie to get there so you can enjoy it as a short break, and it’s every inch as good as the more popular European ski resorts – but not nearly as busy.
The Queen of Norway has a nice name, too.
For more information on the resorts, check out:
- www.myrkdalen.no/en/ski-resort
- www.myrkdalen.no/en/myrkdalen-hotel
- www.vossresort.no/en/winter/
- www.vossresort.no/en/winter/accommodation/
- www.vossvind.no/en/om-voss-vind/vindtunnelen/
- Book flights at wideroe.co.uk
