Hotel review: Is Dornoch Station Sutherland's finest seaside resort?

I surprised my husband-to-be with a stay at Dornoch Station, but he ditched me for Shania Twain in concert so I took my dog with me to the Highland hotel instead.

This century-old landmark has been sympathetically renovated into 89 cosy cottage-style rooms wallpapered with a flora and fauna theme.

Wood-panelled public spaces are reminiscent of a lodge you’d find at the world-famous Loch Ness, conveniently just an hour’s drive away from here if you’re keen to visit it.

Everything about the hotel’s elegant interior – from the earthy palette to the nautical decoration – and even the contents of its larder are a love letter to the stunning seascape and beautiful scenery that surrounds it.

Seashell-shaped lighting installations and wood-carved tables imitating lighthouses bring the outdoors in.

Wood-panelled public spaces reminiscent of a Loch Ness lodge. Image: Bacchus Agency (Bacchus)

And velvet lounge chairs tempt guests to the picture-frame-like windows overlooking the Dornoch Firth.

I feel liberated by the peace and quiet I find here. And because on arrival my Lurcher cross Dalmatian, Tyke, is welcomed with a complimentary boned-shaped dog biscuit, it’s not long before our stay already earns itself a four-paw review.

Dogs are welcome here along with adventurers, golfers and relaxation-seekers – this place is ideal for all of you.

Tyke-approved dog-friendly rooms offer comfort and sea views. Images: Bryan Rutherford/Bacchus Agency (Bacchus)

You won’t be disappointed whether you’re drawn to rambles through the rustic landscape or along the rugged coastline, on a pilgrimage to the legendary Royal Dornoch Golf Club – one of Scotland’s finest championship courses – or just wanting to pause the hustle and bustle for a while.

However, in my case, with a generous body mass index – to put it politely – there’s no hiding that this foodie is expecting something special tonight.

I’m quickly reminded that nothing rivals Highland hospitality as my tastebuds begin to travel the region, beginning with a cocktail at quintessential Bar Ross (named after famous golf course architect Donald Ross, who learned the game on Royal Dornoch’s links).

I sip away at The Donoch Old Fashioned, made with local whisky from the Glenmorangie Distillery less than 15 minutes away from here.

And I’m now feeling inspired to drive along the A9 tomorrow and visit the town of Tain to enjoy a tour of the distillery.

Order The Donoch Old Fashioned cocktail to enjoy local whisky at Bar Ross. Images: Bacchus Agency (Bacchus)

But I cannot wait to set foot in the cosy vibe of The Golden Gorse restaurant, with its old-school charm meets modern comfort décor and windows I can look out towards the sea.

I’m not embarrassed to admit that I’ve already studied the menu, even before leaving home, and I know exactly what I want before sitting at my table.

In fact, I’ve been telling colleagues for weeks of my intention to order the Scottish Lobster Thermidor.

So, I’m devastated to be told that it’s not available!

However, my appetite is in the talented hands of Callum Phillip, the executive head chef, who previously worked at Cameron House in Loch Lomond and is not about to disappoint.

His menu truly embodies the essence of authentic Scottish cuisine, reflecting the Highlands and the abundance of locally sourced ingredients.

Food that has tongues wagging…

Callum’s personal favourite on the menu is the roast Shetland pollock – a delicious white fish served with capers, brown butter, brown shrimp, spinach and macadamia.

I’m told that tourists, especially from the US, have a soft spot for the twice-baked cheese soufflé.

The local cheese travels fewer than 10 miles from Tain-based Highland Fine Cheeses which, fast-forward to dessert, also provides my cheeseboard.

But I’m still wondering what to order…

Head chef likes ‘being innovative and creating dishes that are different’

Head chef Callum tells me: “I like being innovative and creating dishes that are different.”

I start with the seared hand-dived scallop, sea fennel, lemon and shellfish bisque.

Next, it’s the chargrilled Longhorn beef sirloin, triple-cooked hand-cut chips and a peppercorn sauce.

And dessert, as I previously mentioned, is so good that I have it again from the generously varied breakfast buffet the following day, before enjoying something cooked as well.

You never knew beef sirloin and triple-cooked chips could taste as good as this at The Golden Gorse restaurant. Images: Bacchus Agency (Bacchus)

Returning to my spacious room, I treat myself to what feels like a luxurious shower experience.

I enjoy the fancy complimentary Cefiro-scented Floris bath and body products made by England’s oldest retailer of fragrance and toiletries.

I’m all set for a good night’s sleep.

Wander coastal paths for miles. Image: Bacchus Agency (Bacchus)

Weather-worriers be reassured, if you wake up to a wet day, the hotel’s in-house fitness room equipped with Peloton bikes, treadmills and free-weights – or the building’s free wi-fi – could help to keep you busy.

Alternatively, you can enjoy a private putting green on the hotel’s front lawn or venture further on a complimentary bicycle rental arranged through the front desk.

I’m drawn to what’s on offer in the town, as showcased on the Visit Dornoch website.

WATCH – reasons to visit Dornoch:

I enjoy a browse at The Dornoch Bookshop, known for its acclaimed children’s corner for wee ones, helpful OS maps, and postcards for keepsakes or sending to jealous loved ones.

The windows at the shop front of Castle Close Antiques quickly entice me inside. I could spend hours here.

Located in the heart of the town is the county of Sutherland’s 19th Century jail which, in 2000, was transformed into a unique shop boasting 5,000 square feet of retail space offering clothing, accessories, arts and gifts.

And just a two-minute drive from Dornoch Square on Grange Road is Kilncroft Gallery, showcasing local artist Andrew Burns and sharing a range of landscape and abstract photography as well as paintings, ceramics and postcards.

The work is inspired by the light and colour of the local surroundings.

I’ll be back, and I want my lobster!

It’s easy to visit Dornoch, not least because there’s lots to do and many attractions to appreciate.

Dornoch Station offered me all the benefits of a luxury hotel but with a homely feel that leaves me wanting to move in to avoid giving up the peaceful tranquility that I know I’ll miss.

I don’t regret missing Shania Twain’s concert and I tell myself that I’ll be back for more and hopefully, finally get hold of that lobster.