Restaurant Review: The Station Hotel in Stonehaven

I blame Celia Johnson. Ever since Trevor Howard brushed train soot off her eyelashes in Brief Encounter, railway station tea rooms have held a certain romance.

Admittedly this was the Station Hotel at Stonehaven and not a 1940s ‘refreshment room’ as in David Lean’s film but as it’s only a stone’s throw from a railway platform that’s enough of a cinematic link for me.

As we walked from the station I could almost hear the clink of teacups and Joyce Carey as café owner Mrs Bagot scolding: “Beryl! Hurry up and put some more coal on the stove!”

All thoughts of Noel Coward’s screenplay vanished, however, the moment we walked into the restaurant with its contemporary décor, but as this was my 10-year wedding anniversary I was determined to stay in romantic mode.

Exterior of the Station Hotel at Stonehaven. — The Station Hotel at Stonehaven is popular with locals.

For a Monday night, this was a busy little place, with only a few tables free and the rest filled with groups of friends chatting and two or three people who appeared to be ‘working from home’.

This must be where locals come to catch up with their mates during the week or do business while grabbing a bite I reckon.

We checked out the specials board featuring Chicken and Haggis Pie or Chicken Fillet and Black Pudding Ciabatta with Pepper Sauce.

Going for the special

Neither appealed to me, although being a pepper sauce fiend, I jotted that down in my notebook in case I forgot about it when it was time to order.

I always think it’s a good idea to opt for a special and so my husband went for one of them to help with my review, despite the fact that what he really wanted was the Steak and Guinness Pie.

If that’s not romantic I don’t know what is – after all this is an Irishman and Guinness we’re talking about.

Chicken and Haggis Pie with chips and vegetables at the Station Hotel in Stonehaven. — Chicken and Haggis Pie with chips and vegetables.

I couldn’t decide what to order – a nice problem to have – and put the waitress through her paces by first asking if I could have the Wild Mushroom and Chickpea Stroganoff as a starter.

Chef said no so then I asked if I could have a little bowl of peppercorn sauce along with my main meal.

Chef said yes to this so I moved to Plan B and opted for a stroganoff main with chips on the side.

These were to be a vehicle for the peppercorn sauce in case I regretted my choice and wished I’d gone for the Chicken Escalope with Cracked Pepper Sauce instead.

Menus don’t get the better of me!

Big starters

A huge bowl of Chilli Beef Nachos almost got the better of my husband though, as he struggled to finish the ginormous starter.

I helped him because I wasn’t too keen on my Vegetarian Bon Bons. I’d only ordered them because I liked the name and while the Bon Bons themselves were tasty, they were smothered in too much of the roasted red pepper ragu for my preference.

Wild Mushroom and Chickpea Stroganoff with aromatic rice and herby naan bread.

The Nachos were topped with a red mustard frill, a new and exciting taste as well as being pretty to look at.

The Chicken and Haggis Pie was declared a triumph. It was a sort of twist on a Balmoral Chicken and came with a really rich and tasty gravy.

My stroganoff was top notch and served with a wonderfully aromatic rice along with a herby naan bread that was delightfully crispy on the surface and fluffy on the inside.

How we found room for the side order of chips I’m not sure, but I’m willing to put in the effort when it comes to a good peppercorn sauce.

I knew I wouldn’t be able to manage an entire dessert so I went for something I could transport home – the Chocolate and Honeycomb Torte.

Chocolate and Honeycomb Torte at the Station Hotel.

Rich, chocolatey and fresh, it was harder than I thought to stop after one mouthful but I did, and kept the rest to have with a cuppa the following day.

On the other side of the table a Lemon Meringue Roulade appeared… and disappeared just like that.

What is it with men and lemon-flavoured desserts? They go nuts for them! Apparently it was scrumptious and did look yummy judging by the photo I snapped before demolition work began.

The Station Hotel's Lemon Meringue Roulade. — Blink or you’ll miss it – Lemon Meringue Roulade.

We ordered coffees which came with exceptional-looking pieces of homemade shortbread.

I carefully wrapped mine up to enjoy the next day but in the morning my husband packed it into my daughter’s lunch box and I never saw it again.

I’d imagined that shortbread and me in all sorts of glamorous circumstances, with Earl Grey tea in a fine china cup or with an Irish Cream Latte, drifting along the Grand Canal in a Gondola.

Now, like Celia Johnson staring into the middle distance with a tear in her eye, I can only dream of what might have been.