There’s only one thing to beat a fine dining experience, and that’s fine company, and I certainly was experiencing that.
Joining me on this rather special lunch date at the Rothesay Rooms in Ballater was Robert Lovie, a man known to many across the north-east as he is not only manager/keeper at the National Trust for Scotland’s Fyvie Castle, and a Trustee of Dumfries House Trust, but he’s also a fabulous singer who has entertained at hundreds of concerts across Scotland over the years.
He is part of the team responsible for the creation of this restaurant which, rather like the mythical phoenix, has been born from a disaster. Not fire, but a terrible flood, caused by Storm Frank in 2015, which swept through the village causing utter devastation.
Post-flood, Prince Charles visited Ballater and was inspired to set up a flood appeal under the auspices of the charity, The Great Steward of Scotland’s Dumfries House Trust. This resulted in major repairs to the caravan park and the transformation of what had been a supermarket into a swish, upmarket restaurant.
I found it almost impossible to believe this was once the building where I’d bought my P&J and groceries during weekend breaks here, as there is no trace left of the supermarket today.
Instead, one gets the feeling that you stepped through the doors of a rather lovely, traditional Highland country house.
The wood panelled walls are painted dark green and hung with numerous paintings. There are polished antiques, gorgeous rugs, Highgrove tartan covered chairs, gleaming silverware, antler framed mirrors and good lighting which create a traditional, warm, welcoming and tasteful ambience.
The background music ranges from swing to chart hits while chairs and tables of various sizes are placed in a way that allows some privacy.
At the rear of the restaurant there’s a window-size opening where you can watch the chefs, headed by Guy Fenton, at work. Guy previously worked at the Savoy and Dorchester in London, but I’m claiming his as one of our own because, as a child, he spent several years living in Aberdeen where his father worked as a doctor.
Remember Guy’s name because he is a chef worth watching and I’d be surprised if awards for his dishes don’t come rolling his way shortly as the food we sampled was not only beautiful to look at but brimming with flavour.
There is a choice of specials which change daily or an a la carte menu, and diners can flip between the two options.
For my starter I chose Highland smoked salmon with smoked salmon pate, horseradish creme fraiche and chestnut blinis. Topped with teeny pieces of amber caviare, it almost looked too pretty to eat. Every forkful was sublime but I particularly enjoyed the buttery salmon pate spread on the sweet chestnut blinis.
Robert plumped for Guy’s version of a north-east favourite, Cullen Skink. An elegant version of what is sometimes a thick and hearty soup, this version included two poached quail eggs and creme fraiche which added further layers of flavour while making it almost a meal in itself.
My main course came from the specials selection – Loin of Balmoral venison with ravioli of braised haunch, roast celeriac, quinoa and horseradish foam, while Robert ordered pan-roasted salmon, mussels, crab bisque, roasted salsify and curly kale.
Perfectly cooked with a pink centre, my venison melted in the mouth but the real star of the show was the large round of ravioli stuffed with the most wonderful venison stew which was ridiculously moreish.
The large fillet of salmon with beautifully crisp skin was also a showstopper while the crab bisque, served separately in a small jug, was sublime.
With two good-sized portions under our belts we really shouldn’t have ordered dessert but felt it would be rude not to at least try one, so we shared Guy’s take on rhubarb and custard which featured poached rhubarb, prosecco, raspberry and rhubarb jelly and a custard foam.
Looking rather like a vanilla slice cake, it was another terrific dish which took everyday ingredients and turned them into something rather extraordinary.
Prices here are perhaps on the higher side compared to some local eateries but it is worth bearing in mind that the profits from here go to the charity, plus it’s not everyday you get to eat in a restaurant that has Royal support.
Rothesay Rooms is open for dinner Thursday-Saturday and for lunches, Friday-Sunday but these hours will be extended. Advance booking is essential. A new Sunday Lunch menu starts tomorrow.
