We live quite close to Bunchrew House which sits on the road from Inverness to Kirkhill, and have enjoyed many fine evenings there.
It’s a wonderful location in mature parkland on the shores of the firth, with mountain views stretching into the distance.
And the house itself – all turrets, crow stepped gables and towers – is chocolate box beautiful. A wedding photographer’s dream.
It had been a while since we had dined there so when a friend told us a new chef team had recently arrived and were “just a wee bit special” we decided it was time for another visit.
The lounge, warmed by a roaring fire, was as grand as ever. Just the place to enjoy an aperitif as you peruse the menu.
It is a fine house in the Scottish baronial tradition. Dark wood panelling, ornate cornicing, high ceilings and a feeling of comfortable luxury. The prints of fishing scenes and the odd stag’s head mounted on the wall all add to the charm of the place.
The menu looked every bit as tempting as I hoped it would, including delicious-looking vegetarian options. It didn’t take us long to make our choices and be shown through to the sumptuous dining room where the glittering cut glass, polished silverware and gleaming crockery set on crisp white napery lit up the dark interior.
So good were the aforementioned vegetarian options that this committed carnivore chose the Ragstone goat’s cheese tart as a starter.
And boy was it good. The pungent cheese was set off beautifully by sharp pickled walnuts and sweet honey truffle dressing. All housed in a wonderfully crisp water crust pastry. I was in heaven.
Often I suffer from food envy when others are served but although my husband’s artichoke veloute looked stunning and he assured me it was creamy, delightfully rich and well-seasoned, I was content. I slowly cleared my plate of the unctuous melted cheese that was infusing with the sweet truffle dressing.
I admit I disgraced myself using the freshly baked bread to mop up all the remaining juices. I was not going to miss a drop.
Would the main courses be as good? Well the chef certainly gave it his best shot. My other half plumped for the duo of Buccleuch Beef which, when it arrived at the table, made me worry that the old green-eyed monster might just get the better of me again. The fillet was cooked to perfection, and the braised Jacob’s ladder in a Madeira sauce was deliciously sticky and tender. It was the sort of dish that normally would have had me putting on my spaniel eyes and appealing to his better nature and suggesting we swap. But no. I behaved.
And why not when my dish of duck breast with dauphinoise potato, braised chicory and crisp duck leg croquette with a quince jus looked so good. The duck breast was pink and tender, just as it should be, while the croquette was rich and savoury with a real depth of flavour. Chicory is a veg I can take or leave. Sometimes it can be so overpowering and stringy that it can be a bit off-putting but this was lovely. Subtle but tangy and cooked to a wonderful texture. To wash it down I enjoyed a reasonably-priced glass of Malbec which was as punchy and full of fruit as you could hope for.
Now the big question. Would the puddings match up? By this time I was pretty confident the kitchen brigade would produce something first class, and so it proved. I did swither as I was very tempted by the whisky baba which was served with your own choice of favourite dram. But the idea of having to choose between a peaty island variety or something subtler from Speyside seemed, at that stage of the meal, too much like hard work so I plumped for the chocolate fondant.
It looked a picture when it came to the table. Served with popcorn ice cream and peanut butter panacotta it seemed all my guilty pleasures were together on the one dish. I loved every sweet and indulgent mouthful.
Hubby chose a baked passion fruit cream. I have no idea what it was like. I was too busy oohing and aahing over my own pudding and guarding it closely in case he tried to sneak a spoonful. He did not have a chance. But on the way home he did tell me it looked superb.
It had been a while since we were last at Bunchrew but having had such a lovely meal, it won’t be too long before we find a good excuse to be back. Indeed it is my birthday soon…
