Susan Welsh discovers the island of Islay and its world-famous whisky
I’ve often wondered what it must be like to have £1million, or at least to be in the same room as that sum. Auchentoshan Distillery, pronounced Och-un-tosh-un and not Osh-un-tosh-un as I’d been led to believe, sits between Glasgow and Loch Lomond. It’s there I got to stand in the same room as £1million, or at least £1million worth of whisky, before sampling the golden amber for myself.
The distillery’s name is Gaelic for “corner of the field” and it has been making triple-distilled lowland single-malt whisky there since 1823. The whitewashed building, overlooking the River Clyde and surrounded by pretty gardens, has a rather smart visitor centre which is open to the public all year round.
Conducting our tour was distillery manager Alistair McDonald. He’s worked there for 30 years, so was the ideal person to offer an insight into how the whisky is made. It’s distinctive because it’s triple distilled, most spirit is distilled twice, and it’s this that gives it its distinctive smooth and mellow flavour.
After taking us through the various stages which showed how water from Loch Katrine, Scottish barley and yeast were turned into whisky, we visited warehouse number five, which isn’t large but holds around £1million worth of whisky, maturing patiently before being bottled and shipped around the world. Tours are priced from £6 and finish with a free dram. We sampled the Auchentoshan Three Wood, a delicious dram with hints of toffee, butterscotch, sweet sherry and fruit.
From there, it’s a 15-minute drive to Glasgow Airport, where we caught a 25-minute flight to Islay. I was part of a group of writers visiting the island which is home to eight distilleries, including the world-famous Bowmore, Laphroaig and Ardbeg. Next year has been declared The Year of Food and Drink for Scotland and, during it, wonderful local produce will be showcased.
Where better to start sampling some of this than the magical island of Islay, often referred to as the Queen of the Hebrides and regarded as one of Scotland’s famous whisky regions. Peat is still cut from the mosslands which cover much of the island, giving the distinct flavour to the Islay malts. Our happy group, which thanks to regular tastings of Bowmore malts were a very happy bunch, had a go at cutting the peats as part of the Bowmore Master Distiller’s Tour. Let me assure you, it’s much harder than it looks, so full respect to those cutting the 70 tonnes the distillery uses each year to give the whisky its distinctive, smoky, peaty flavour.
Islay has a population of around 3,000, but that doubles during the summer months, thanks to the visitors who flock there to experience its many charms, such as its mild climate, golden beaches, wildlife and distilleries. Being next to the Gulf Stream means that, even in winter, it doesn’t get that cold; around three degrees is as low as it gets, which makes it a good year-round destination and popular with barnacle geese who fly in from Greenland and stay until around the end of March. Look out, too, for red deer, stoats, otters and, if you’re lucky, golden eagles.
There are no traffic lights or roundabouts on Islay, so driving is a pleasure. Among the places you might want to park and spend a while are the Islay Walled Garden, an impressive three-acre garden run by the community and supplying a good selection of fruit and vegetables to many of the island’s hotels and restaurants. Locals and visitors are also welcome there to buy produce and leave the cash in an honesty box.
There’s plenty to tickle the tastebuds on offer, from freshly pulled kale and carrots to spicy chillis. In the summer, the garden, looked after by full-time head gardener Tom Skinner, a retired fruit farmer from Kent, has an abundance of fresh fruit, including melons.
Islay Woollen Mill is the island’s only mill and is about as traditional a mill as you can get. It produces an excellent range of top-quality woven fabrics which have featured in Hollywood movies, including Braveheart, Forrest Gump and Rob Roy, made on looms dating from Victorian times. The fabric is then used in everything from designer handbags to cosy scarves and traditional-style jackets, so be prepared to be very tempted to spend, spend, spend.
With a coastline of more than 130 miles, Islay has many nice beaches, with one of the bonniest being Machir Bay, which has more than a mile of soft, white sand fringed by machair. It has a reputation for being a fantastic spot to watch the sunset, but no matter how tempting the water looks, swimming is not advised due to the extremely strong currents. Opt instead to take a walk to the south end of the beach, where you’ll find the ruins of an Iron Age fort hidden there.
While Islay has much to offer visitors, for many it’s the thrill of visiting distilleries that’s a big draw. Rising visitor numbers and a demand for high-quality accommodation were behind Bowmore Distillery’s decision to transform former staff cottages and the former village bakery into luxury accommodation and take over the Harbour Inn, all of which are just yards from the distillery, which has been there since 1779 and sits on the shores of a Loch Indaal, a sea loch that opens out into the Atlantic Ocean.
Built in 1887, the Old Bakery is directly across the road from the Harbour Inn and just a stone’s throw from the village pier and harbour. Transformed beyond all recognition, the Old Bakery offers the ultimate in luxury self-catering accommodation, with a fantastic dining-kitchen, enormous tastefully decorated and comfortable lounge, and beautifully appointed rooms, all with en suite facilities. On the first night, we dined in the inn’s conservatory restaurant, where we tucked into a fantastic dinner featuring a host of local produce, including rabbit, lamb and whisky-infused tablet created by award-winning executive chef David Kinnes.
He pulled out all the stops again for a whisky pairing dinner on the second night, this time served within a specially created dining room in the distillery’s Number One Vault, which is the oldest maturation warehouse in Scotland and the only one below sea level. Home-cured Bowmore whisky salmon, ragout of Argyll venison and a passion fruit, chocolate and red berry compote, each teamed with a different malt, made this a truly memorable dining experience on one of Scotland’s very special islands.
If this is a taste of what’s to come next year, when food and drink will be in the spotlight, then 2015 can’t come soon enough.
For information, inspiration and tips on holidays in Scotland,
go to www.visitscotland.com
Bowmore Distillery: www.bowmore.com
The Harbour Inn, Bowmore, Islay: www.harbour-inn.com
The Old Bakery, Bowmore, Islay:
https://cottages.bowmore.co.uk/
Auchentoshan Distillery: www.auchentoshan.com
Flybe franchise partner Loganair operates up to 24 flights a week between Glasgow and Islay. Fares start at £44.99 and all passengers get a free 20kg luggage allowance. Children under 12 are entitled to a 33% discount on fares. Contact: www.flybe.com or call 0371 700 2000.