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Andrew Martin: Relax, don’t race, and make Le Mans a Classic adventure

Racing start at Le Mans Classic 2022.
Racing start at Le Mans Classic 2022.

You might remember I mentioned my preparation ahead of attending the 2022 Classic Le Mans.

Well, 2022 was the third year that my brother and I have driven to Le Mans and, yes, after a few mistakes in the past, we got it right this year making the journey into a road trip.

So, while fresh in my mind I thought I’d give you some consumer advice ahead of the big Classic Le Mans in July 2023, for the 100th anniversary of the 24 Hours of Le Mans.

First steer is don’t bother with the 24 Heures du Mans event which is held annually. Unless you like building towers of beer cans, don’t want to sleep and can cope with ablution facilities that make those seen in the film Bridge over the River Kwai look luxurious. Of course, if you drive a TVR this is ideal for you.

Hotel de France.

The Classic Le Mans is more relaxed and has a better vibe. There’s still plenty racing, with a variety of classic machines out on track, most recognisable as cars.

First decision is the wheels. In the past we’ve travelled in brother’s classic Porsche 911 Turbo, then my Alfa Romeo GTV (our friends gave us the humorous nickname of the Alfa males).

For 2022 my turn, again, and I chose the old Mercedes Benz sedan. And it turned out to be the perfect choice. Sure, it delivered between 16 and 18.9 miles per gallon, but it gave us huge presence, and everyone loved it.

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All the others on the run were in sports cars, apart from us, and Martin Port, who was in his famous Land Rover.

Most importantly, make the trip fun from end to end, and travel with old or new friends. For the second time we ran with the Classic and Sportscar magazine posse, meeting in a hostelry in Portsmouth for dinner and refreshments before driving round to the ferry to depart to France.

Once in Europe (with UK sticker attached) we re-enacted a scene from the Wacky Races as we drove off in different directions for an hour’s drive to our breakfast hotel venue in a quaint French village.

Breakfast stop.

Here we met up with what felt like most of the ferry. It was a treat to park up amongst the other cars and chat with fellow travellers.

Sitting around a table with linen tablecloths while being served a cooked breakfast and tea is my sort of petit déjeuner.

Next, think about accommodation. Our first year was a disaster. We decided to take our own tenting gear and barbecue equipment for breakfast. Our 1970’s orange tent, with windows and net curtains, made us look daft “roast beefs”.

We weren’t even able to pitch it straight. Our attempts at a hot breakfast on damp mornings were so depressing we hit the red wine early. On our next trip we had our tent erected on site in advance for us.

We had to bring our own sleeping gear, so I brought a charity shop purchased camp bed and sleeping bag. Brother brought a blanket and inflatable mattress, with a puncture in it. He then lay on top of an ant hill! The bites are still visible.

Glamping.

This year we cracked it. Again, we joined the Classic and Sportscar magazine posse, but on site left the budget travellers and went to an exclusive glamping area.

This meant a pre-erected Bell tent, with a light (not needed), beds, mattress, and bed linen! Breakfast was cooked for us on site, in a marquee that doubled as a bar. Perfect.

I’d recommend buying grandstand seats. This means you can sit, in the shade, and watch the iconic Le Mans starts as drivers run to their cars and speed away narrowly missing each other.

By chance I’d booked seats opposite a big screen, so we could follow the race as well as live action below us. And this year the racing was superb.

Le Mans racing.

Seeing the Ferrari 250 GT “Breadvan” in action is a highlight for all car enthusiasts. And for good reason, this unique model represents a monument of world motorsport (designed in the early 1960s for a wealthy collector, this Ferrari quickly earned its nickname “Breadvan” from the often-teasing British media).

Yes, we watched the 250 GT “Breadvan” start its race but unfortunately it never crossed the finish line. Coming out of a bend, the Ferrari crashed into a wall of tires.

Luckily, the driver came out unscathed from this incident, but the sight of the damaged Ferrari drew a gasp from the crowd, and was very sad viewing.

Breadvan crash.

Valued at around $30 million, it’s likely the “Breadvan” will be painstakingly repaired and returned to racing.

This year the racing circuit got very hot and crowded. So, here’s another tip. Borrow, or take your own Porsche key (or other proof of Porsche ownership) to get access to the Porsche Experience Centre.

You still have to pay for lunch and Pimms, but it was a sanctuary of shade and calm to hang out in for a while… and use the very clean Porsche toilets.

Hotel de France.

My next tip is to travel down to the Hotel de France, Chare-aur-le-Loir. As an old hotelier I love this hotel. The draw is its rich racing history, and how the teams and drivers stayed there and tested cars on the nearby roads back in the day.

I’m not going to say any more. Just visit and look at the pictures on the wall of the bar. We popped down on leaving the glamp site and found five classic Bentleys parked up outside, at least one of which had been competing the day before and was still sporting its racing numbers.

Le Mans start.

And finally, heading home, take a few days to enjoy France. Then when you arrive back at Ouistreham (for Caen ferry) don’t just line up at the terminal tarmac.

No, drive past the terminal and within seconds you’re at the beach. Sword beach of World War 2 notoriety. It’s stunning and peaceful.

After walking the beach, we reflected on what a long run it was for soldiers landing there back in June 1944, then spent a few moments silent at the memorial.

We rounded off our trip with food and drinks in a smart restaurant near the beach, then back in line to board the ferry home.

Up close at the race.

Over 2000 comfortable miles in the old car. And it didn’t miss a beat. Well, that’s not true.

It sprung a leak from the steering box, and automatic transmission, then on the last lap the fuel injection played up. But I wouldn’t have travelled in anything else.

Enjoy Classic Le Mans in 2023. And make your journey a road trip to remember.

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