Breaks out of the daily routine inevitably build anticipation – to relax, to enjoy and to discover.
The drive to Skye from the north is undeniably one of the most stunning in Scotland, curving its way around great peaks and circumnavigating beautiful lochs. However, nothing quite prepares you for the first look across Loch Alsh at the mountains that rise above the storied isle.
If the scene looks like something from another land, then that is because that is exactly what it is. Our journey took us to the south of the island first, across bridges with stone peaks.
Stepping into the Toravaig House Hotel, part of the family-owned Sonas Collection, feels like arriving home after a long journey. Personal photographs from staff at the reception provide a warm welcome after a day on the road.
At the start of the year, Skye was condemned as one of the top holiday destinations “to avoid” by CNN due to the amount of visitors wanting to marvel in its beauty. Looking down the southern peninsula and across to the mainland from one of the hotel’s newly refurbished nine bedrooms or relaxing lounge, it is easy to forget there is anyone else on the isle.
After a quick slump in our room – the rooms are all named after other Scottish islands – our evening hosts, Katerina and Naomi, furnish us with hidden nearby walking and driving routes to get the best view of the Red Cuillin mountain range.
In the evening, though, is where Toravaig really makes its mark. Its Iona Restaurant, led by head chef Miles Craven, has won two AA Rosettes and uses produce sourced from across Skye’s larder. My Wester Ross salmon with watercress sauce created spectacular colours and flavours, while the duck was just as sensational.
Having recently won the Scottish Island Hotel of the Year title for the third year in a row, with its stunning dining, it is perhaps unsurprising the venue has a growing reputation for weddings with large lawns to enjoy the outdoors. Returning to the lounge for a whisky or two by the log fire is the perfect setting to end the day while swapping tales with other travellers.
A delicious bowl of porridge and eggs Benedict with more of that fabulous salmon was the perfect start to the following morning.
House manager Rose-Mary, who has decades of experience in the hospitality industry at some of Scotland’s most prestigious hotels, supplied us with more tips to unearth some of Skye’s hidden gems. Toravaig is just a 10- minutes drive from Armadale, ideal accommodation when arriving on Skye or exploring the south of the island.
Next door to the hotel, Torabhaig Distillery is welcoming visitors, after production began on the site last year. The complex, converted from old farm buildings, offers an insight into smaller-scale whisky production – far from some of the multinational brands.
Rose-Mary’s recommendations took us to the north of the island and an abandoned tramway that used to form a busy mining operation. The forgotten trail leads to the isolation of Loch Cuithir and stunning views of the Trotternish hills, a secluded alternative to the popular Old Man of Storr trail.
Our accommodation for the night was the Skeabost Hotel, also part of the Sonas group and the only hotel on the island with its own golf course. Skeabost is also shortlisted as Best Group Hotel in the 2018 Catering Scotland Excellence Awards, with the winner to be announced next week.
Originally built as a hunting lodge on the banks of the River Snizort in 1871, it remains in 23 acres of woodland with views across the loch. Steeped in history, the home now features traditional country decor with a modern design.
The river is one of the most renowned on the island for sea trout and salmon, with ghillies available to guide the novices. Situated between Portree and Dunvegan, the hotel is, unsurprisingly, a popular base for international visitors looking to explore Skye, winning Island Hotel of the Year in 2016 and 2017.
After a busy day experiencing a tiny fraction of Skye’s natural beauty, the luxury rooms with four poster beds offered a perfect environment to relax, while pier rooms boast exterior decking to retain the connection to the outdoors.
Chilled milk, to be added to tea or coffee, awaited us in the room – no need to rip foil off a plastic capsule that inevitably never contains enough.
Dinner is served in the spacious West Pier restaurant, which includes a huge conservatory where every seats offers a gorgeous sunset view over the loch.
Nicola took care of us while the chefs served up a crisp crab cocktail followed by succulent pork. Conversation among the diners in the restaurant inevitably included mention of the eye-catching view across to the rural crofts – leaving behind the worries of everyday life.
After dessert, the log fire in the lounge beckoned once again, where sofas waited for travellers to swap tales of their own discoveries over whisky and gin.
Only the glimmer of sunlight through the curtains into the darkness of the bedroom hinted at morning – such was the serenity of the location.
After a cooked breakfast served downstairs, it was time to venture once more into the wilderness to find out what more the island had to offer.
Toravaig and Skeabost are ideally positioned at either end of the beautiful island of Skye, offering a relaxing base from which to take in as much scenery as your eyes will let you.
But do not feel as if you need to go armed with an itinerary of sights and attractions. Staff at both venues have a wealth of tips to get you off the beaten track, while the lounges in the hotels provide the perfect setting to collect more recommendations from your fellow travellers.
The only anticipation left is what hidden gems you will uncover.