Arriving in Norway on a warm sunny Sunday, it was hard to believe that only a few hours previously I was home in Aberdeen having my morning cuppa.
Walking through the narrow alleyways and dark external galleries of Bergen’s old Hanseatic wharf is like travelling back in time. A lively and important part of the city through the centuries, this UNESCO World Heritage site comprises the remains of the old harbour buildings and is one of the best-known mediaeval city settlements in Norway.
Food is very important here and the freshest fish is served in most restaurants as well as the market. The picturesque and lively area in Bergen is one of Norway’s most visited outdoor markets and is a charming location in the heart of the city between the fjords and Bergen’s seven mountains.
A lot of the restaurants offer a set menu and serve the catch of the day, often with a starter of fish soup and crusty bread. Caramel pudding (a bit like crème caramel) is often a fabulously sweet ending to the meal. The choice of seafood on offer is astounding; I sampled whale, mackerel, langoustines, tusk, crab, prawns and mussels over four days.
On day two we departed by train to Myrdal on a “Sognefjord in a Nutshell” trip to join the Flam Railway which offers breathtaking views of the fjord landscape, snow-capped mountains and an abundance of waterfalls.
With just over 450 inhabitants, the beautiful village of Flam has a pretty harbour, souvenir shops and a handful of hotels. Now a popular destination for cruise ships, it is not surprising that it can get very busy in high season.
From Flam, we joined a fjord safari for a boat trip along Sognafjord, the longest and deepest fjord in Norway. Our guide stopped the boat at various points and talked about the fascinating natural and cultural history of the area. He pointed out one farm, perched high up into the mountain and only accessible by boat and a 55-minute uphill hike.
The Californian owner has opened up a B&B there and it has a three-year waiting list. You would need to be pretty fit to climb the steep incline especially carrying your luggage, but we were assured the views and the hospitality at the top was worth it. The second part of our safari was a pleasant hike up to a goats’ cheese farm where we shared lunch with an adorable Norwegian family, while learning about their farm and sampling various cheeses, pancakes and salami (made with old goat) washed down with delicious homemade apple juice.
We stayed overnight at Fretheim Hotel, originally a farm but now a 122-room hotel boasting panoramic views of the fjord and harbour. Meals are usually buffet-style in the larger hotels and the standard of cuisine is extremely high, with the majority of food sourced from local farms that produce the finest cheese, meat, fruit and vegetables.
Next morning we took to the water again, this time in a kayak and passed a leisurely couple of hours paddling around the calm waters swaddled by the stunning landscape.
All this fresh air and exercise gave us an appetite and we ate at the fabulous Aegir Micro Brewery and restaurant in Flam. The Viking-style brewery with slate floor, driftwood walls, dragon heads and 9-metre high fireplace boasts over 30 different types of beer.
We indulged in a fabulous taster menu including mussels, pork cheek and a decadent chocolate fondant; each course accompanied by a different beer to complement the food.
Back on the boat again for our trip to Balestund, a beautiful village where three branches of the fjord stretch inland and small settlements lie like jewels between fjords and mountains. The Disney blockbuster Frozen was inspired by the Norwegian fjords and the architecture of houses in the film in particular is comparable to buildings in Balestrand.
This has resulted in a higher than normal influx of American tourists. We stayed at the historic Kviknes Hotel with breathtaking views. Enjoying a glass of wine on the terrace in the evening was a highlight of the trip; no picture could captivate the calmness and surreal beauty of this stunning landscape.
Next we travelled to Fjareland Village to see the award-winning Norwegian Glacier museum, the leading light in Norway for glaciers and climate change. After this a bus transported us to the two glaciers, with ample time for photo opportunities, coffee and homemade cinnamon apple muffins before returning to Mundal in the centre of Fjareland.
Mundal is known as the Norwegian Book Town and has book shops situated in old cow sheds and pigpens; there are also book shops on the ferry quay and in hotels.
We spent our last evening at trendy Lysverket restaurant in Bergen. This was more of a dining experience than a meal and we were indulged with eight exquisite and delicately presented courses with suitable wine pairing. The knowledgeable waiter explained in detail the food he was serving which included minke whale tartar, tusk with roasted fennel and my favourite, strawberry mousse cake.
Our last day in Norway started with a ride on the Funicular Railway. One of Bergen’s top attractions, the trip took just eight minutes to climb Mount Floyen, to take in the beautiful view, study the cityscape and the seaward approaches and fjords surrounding Bergen. This is also an ideal area for walking and hiking, with lots of families enjoying the tranquil forest and lakes away from the busier tourist viewing points.
Lunch was at Cornelius Seafood restaurant on a small island outside Bergen. Situated right by the sea with spectacular views of the fjord, mountains and passing boats and ships, it was the perfect setting for our final farewell.
Inspired by the weather of the day, Cornelius serves its famous meteorological menu of exquisite seafood using innovative culinary techniques, and showed a genuine passion for seafood. Large tanks of scallops and lobster freshly caught that morning await their fate here.
We toasted the marvellous few days we spent in Norway. Their love of nature, the outdoors, hiking and local food was evident throughout our visit. The people are friendly and welcoming, but the real advantage was that, after a trip up a mountain followed by lunch on an island, I was back home in Scotland in time for a nightcap with lasting memories of a country I would love to revisit.
For more information visit www.visitnorway.co.uk, www.fjordnorway.com, www.fjordtours.com. From Aberdeen, Widerøe flies daily to Bergen from £140 return. Visit www.wideroe.no
