My earliest food memory, I believe, is as a toddler picking and nibbling on curly parsley in my grandad’s garden in Dornoch. I have always remembered that savoury, fresh flavour along with the wonderful green colour. Because of this I have always associated curly parsley (not the continental flat leaf stuff) as being an intrinsically Scottish herb.
Versatile as a flavouring and hardy enough to grow well in the north of Scotland all year, it adds a much-needed splash of vibrant green to the plate at a time when it is needed most – the beginning of winter.
These recipes have been inspired by this very characteristically Highland herb (humble and hardy) but while very Scottish recipes, they are similar to two classic French dishes, Moules Mariniere and Brandade de Morue.
Mussels are at their best during the colder months, easy to prepare and cook, extremely healthy, great finger food and much loved by young and old.
Cabbie Claw is a very old and traditional recipe originating from Orkney and the north-east of Scotland. My version is delicious on its own, but can also be served as an accompaniment to any fish, including scallops.
SERVES 2-4
Wash and de-beard 1kg Scottish mussels. Discard any that are cracked or open
50g Scottish butter
1 medium onion, 1 stick celery
1/2 a bulb fennel finely chopped
2 large cloves garlic, finely grated
2 heaped tblsps chopped curly parsley
2 rounded tblsps toasted medium oatmeal
Freshly ground black pepper
150mls dry white wine
100mls double cream
Melt the butter in a large pan. You will need a good lid to fit the pan. Carefully, soften the chopped celery, onion and fennel in the hot butter then add the garlic. Cook for a minute.
Stir in half of the oatmeal and half of the parsley. Add some freshly ground black pepper.
Pour in the wine and cream and bring to the boil.
Add all the mussels, lower the heat, cover with a close-fitting lid and leave to steam until the mussels have opened.
Once the mussels are all open (discard any that are not open), pour the contents into a large bowl and sprinkle with the remaining parsley and oatmeal.
Serve with lemon and some fresh buttermilk scones….
BUTTERMILK SCONES
MAKES 32
350g wholemeal flour
110g strong white flour (and approximately 50g for adjusting and dusting)
3 level tsps table salt
1
400ml buttermilk
30g salted butter, cut into small cubes
Put all of the dry ingredients into a bowl and mix together lightly. Add the butter to this mixture and work it into the flour with your fingertips until incorporated completely.
Pour in the buttermilk and mix with a wooden spoon to form a sticky dough. Use a little of the extra amount of white flour until the dough pulls together and becomes easier to handle.
Place the dough on a lightly floured work surface or board, and shape into a disk. Divide this into 8 parts of equal size. Form each 1/8 part make a small disc, approximately 4cm thick.
Divide this into 4 small balls and repeat the process to make a total of 32 balls/scones.
Place each scone on to a non-stick baking tray, dredge generously with sieved white flour on top.
Place in a pre-heated oven @ 230C for 10-12 minutes until golden brown and crisp to touch.