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Opinion: Festive farming family traditions

Jo Mackenzie
Jo Mackenzie

When Nick and I first learned of the due date for our second baby – December 22 – we were slightly aghast. But to be honest, considering Christmas is one of the most hectic times of the year, I’ve never been more organised. And it’s all thanks to our imminent arrival.

I began my Christmas shopping back in September and gifts have been wrapped, labelled and in boxes since the end of October. I have been stocking the freezer with homemade lasagnes, veggie curries, fish pies, restorative soups and fruit crumbles since early November. Christmas cards were written and sent on December 1, house decorated and tree up by the fifth. I even filed my tax return early (unheard of).

There’s nothing like a deadline to get you motivated.

Outside, Nick has been trying to get as organised as possible, too. Unfortunately, dairying doesn’t stop for a new baby or the Christmas holidays.

Milking happens twice daily each and every day of the year and calving continues year-round thanks to artificial insemination.

Same goes for the rest of the day to day farm work – feeding, mucking out, scraping, feet trimming. But at least ice-cream production will shut down for a fortnight, which is one less thing to worry about.

Needless to say, though, Nick will not be taking paternity leave – does any farmer or self-employed dad, for that matter? – although he will take Christmas day off this year.

Before we had children, Nick would tend to work on Christmas day and take Hogmanay off.

Now, whenever possible, it’s the other way around as Christmas becomes the more important family holiday, when we grown-ups are lucky enough to experience a little of the magic again through the eyes of our children.

Besides, come Hogmanay we are generally in bed well before the bells and undoubtedly will be this year with a new baby at home (either that or we’ll be up all night). I’m hoping things might be a little easier for us second time around since we should know what we’re doing by now.

At least we will have an extra helper in Daisy. I don’t know what she’s more excited about – Christmas or the prospect of becoming a big sister.

With only two years between my younger sister and myself, I don’t recall becoming a big sister when I was little (although early photographs clearly show my devotion to her), but I have to say I have always been and still am a big fan of Christmas.

Nick and I take it in turns to spend Christmas with our respective parents and siblings. This year it is a Mackenzie Christmas and there will be 19 of us, including children (my own family Christmases are slightly smaller at about 14 when we are there).

Five Christmases in and I am more than used to and very happy spending the holiday with my fun-loving family-in-law, but I still remember the first time I spent Christmas there, mainly because of the differences between what they did and what I had been used to.

Growing up with very foodie parents, the Ewart family Christmas invariably involves five courses of festive fare over a period of six hours with rounds of parlour games, a pub-style quiz and cocktails – and often a much needed walk – in between.

The typical feast comprises smoked salmon and langoustines to start; a small soup (although we have asked mum to drop this in recent years); roast turkey with gravy, two stuffings, four types of veg, roast tatties, chipolatas, cranberry and bread sauces; three or four puddings, including gran’s clootie dumpling complete with “charms” hidden inside; cheese and biscuits; then finally, coffee and homemade tablet and Christmas cake.

And we are not allowed to eat until after the Queen’s speech.

So far, Daisy has managed to fit in – although she’s rather more partial to playing with her new toys than participating in the parlour games – but I suspect next year will be a bit different as both my older sister and I will have one-year-olds in tow.

In contrast, the Mackenzie family Christmas begins much earlier and is a far simpler and more relaxed affair. Historically the family would eat at one o’clock so that Nick’s dad, and then Nick himself, could enjoy Christmas dinner before returning to the farm for the afternoon milking.

The tasty meal of roast turkey, cooked overnight in the Aga, is served with two stuffings, gravy, cranberry, chipolatas, boiled potatoes, mashed turnips and peas. Dessert is either traditional plum duff or deliciously retro crème caramel. As a concession to me and my brother-in-law, Pete, bread sauce and red cabbage (a staple on his family Christmas dinner plate) have also been added to the menu in recent years.

Then there’s a break for exchanging gifts, playing with toys or chatting and relaxing by the fire, until about half past five when rounds of egg sandwiches are laid out alongside slabs of Christmas cake, and pots of tea and coffee.

Don’t get me wrong, my mum’s Christmas is magical and akin to eating out at a fine dining restaurant the food is that good, but she’s always exhausted as a result. I just think it would be nice for her to take a leaf out of the farming book and scale things back somewhat. She is, after all, a farmer’s daughter herself.

In equal measure, I look forward to and fear when Nick and I host Christmas for the first time.

I eagerly anticipate establishing our own festive traditions, building on what we already do as a family on Christmas Eve and in the morning. But I do not relish the dramas that can occur over the festive period, or the sheer amount of work involved in shopping for, preparing, cooking and clearing up Christmas dinner for 12-plus people.

For now at least I can relax knowing I have a free pass again this year. Merry Christmas.

  • Rootfield Farm is on the Black Isle, 10 miles north of Inverness, where Jo lives with husband Nick, a fourth-generation dairy farmer, their daughter Daisy and 150 cows