Spring is a time for new beginnings and there’s a definite sense of a fresh start in the air.
With the new season we also welcome the return of some of our most delicious delicacies. Coley and hake are a favourite for many, spring greens and purple broccoli add garden-fresh bite to any plate, and as the first glimmers of summer appear we can look forward to the likes of asparagus, wild salmon and tender new potatoes.
Light, delicate flavours are the key to spring dishes and, with this in mind, 2014 Scottish Food and Drink ambassadors Jeremy Wares and Graeme Pallister have created two beautiful dishes for a stunning seasonal lunch.
PAN-FRIED RAINBOW TROUT WITH COCKLES AND SPRING VEG
from Graeme Pallister, 63 Tay Street
SERVES 4
2 trout, scaled, filleted and pin-boned
6 bunches of purple sprouting broccoli, stalks and leaves removed
500g baby potatoes, boiled, skinned and mashed
100ml whole milk
50g unsalted butter
200g cockles
2 golden baby beetroot
2 candy baby beetroot
Bunch of watercress
4 tablespoons of quality olive oil
2 wedges of lemon
Salt and pepper
Gently wash all beetroot and add to a large pan of lightly salted boiling water. Cook for approximately 10 minutes until the skin comes easily when rubbed. Remove from the water and allow to cool to room temperature. Peel and reserve.
Blanch the broccoli briefly, then refresh in cold water until cool. Remove from the water and reserve.
Gently warm the butter and milk in a pan and add the (still warm) mashed potatoes. Using a wooden spoon, gently incorporate the potato with the buttery milk, then beat well to produce a fluffy buttery mash. Season to taste and keep warm.
To steam the cockles, choose a small pan with tight-fitting lid, add a splash of water and bring it to the boil.
Immediately add the cockles, replacing the lid and steam for 30 sec, giving the pan a gentle shake. The cockles are ready when they are open. Drain the cooking liquor, reserving a tablespoon. In a small bowl, mix this liquor with a squeeze of lemon and half the olive oil to make a vinaigrette ready for serving.
Next, warm a non-stick pan on the stove and add the remaining olive oil. Season the fillets with salt and pepper (skin side up) then place the fillets carefully into the pan skin side down, pressing gently to ensure the fish remains flat in the pan. Cook for one minute then turn. The skin should be crispy and golden brown. Cook for one minute on the other side and remove from the pan.
To serve, place the fish on to warmed plates and remove the skin. Slice the peeled beetroot and arrange the broccoli and cockles to your liking. Lightly spoon some vinaigrette on to the fish and top with the watercress.
TRIO OF SALMON
from Jeremy Wares at Houstoun House
SERVES 4
This dish includes a smoked salmon mousse, smoked salmon rillettes and mayonnaise top and cold roast salmon.
300g smoked salmon
Salmon fillet with skin
250ml double cream
10ml lemon juice
2tbsp mayonnaise
Sprig of fresh tarragon
8 melba toast
Sprinkle of paprika
2 tbsp balsamic vinegar
Herb oil
Cucumber
Cayenne pepper
For the smoked salmon mousse, in a blender mix 100g of chopped smoked salmon and slowly add 250ml double cream. Add lemon juice. Place in the fridge for at least 2 hours to set.
For the rillettes, break up the remaining 200g of smoked salmon in a bowl, add 1tbsp of mayonnaise and the finely chopped fresh tarragon.
Push into small chef’s rings and top with a thin layer of the remaining mayonnaise and sprinkle with paprika. Refrigerate until needed and gently slide rillettes out of rings to serve.
For the cold roast salmon, cut a raw salmon fillet into 5cm pieces and pan fry on skin side in a hot frying pan until skin is crispy and salmon is cooked through. Set aside.
To plate up, squiggle some balsamic vinegar and herb oil over the plate then add some thinly sliced cucumber ribbons.
Place a spoonful of salmon mousse at one end, a piece of the hot roast salmon at the other end then your rillette in the centre.
Place the two triangles of melba toast in the mousse and rillette. Sprinkle all over with a pinch of cayenne pepper then serve.