Towns in the French Alps have two faces. Plain, geometric buildings radiate out from a lakeside setting, as if the planners knew that any architectural flourish would be upstaged by nature.
Then there are the surrounding mountains whose crueller edges are disguised in a seductive covering of fresh snow.
It’s the opportunity for risk and exhilaration that attracts hordes of holidaymakers.
There is undoubtedly a young, trendy crowd of extremely fit and competent snow sports enthusiasts, but young families and older people flock here too.
Alpine ski-ing is about to become more accessible to those of us who live in the north of Scotland now that there are to be direct winter flights from Inverness to Geneva.
Navigating the different types of accommodation on offer can prove tricky.
I travelled to Tignes with my 22-year-old son, Ben, who enjoyed a long winter stay here before going on to qualify as a snowboarding instructor while at university.
Those who have committed themselves to a season of non-stop boarding do not hold apres-ski comfort as a high priority. So Ben was happy enough with the basic self-catering apartment to which we were shown late on the evening of our arrival.
LUXURY
For me though, it lacked the soothing sense of luxury I have come to expect from an annual jaunt to the Alps.
So, after a couple of restless nights and a few discussions with the rep, I left Ben to his own devices and relocated to a pleasant hotel where warmth, space and good cooking made me feel as if my holiday had truly begun.
This lack of clarity about the type of accommodation which has been booked is a problem that may not be confined to the Alps, but nowhere else is it more clearly manifested.
You book a three-star apartment thinking it will be adequately spacious and sufficiently comfortable. Then, on arrival, you realise you are expected to put up with a lack of basic equipment such as duvets while being shoehorned into a small room masquerading as a self-catering flat.
CRYSTAL HOLIDAYS
We were guests of Crystal Holidays and, to their credit, the reps worked hard to try to improve our situation.
It meant, though, that my son and I were no longer in the same resort.
My hotel was a bus ride away from him, which is not what we had planned. Better accommodation comes at a financial cost, something the sales hype does not always make clear.
On the actual ski slopes, it is skill and fitness which differentiate one person from the next rather than the quality of their hotel room. That realisation was brought home to me the next morning when I saw Ben fly down a vertiginous run with fearless grace.
My descent was less assured and I felt as if I was driving a car with an overly responsive accelerator pedal. But ski-ing has a zen-like quality to it.
Any hesitation or lack of confidence translates itself into some dodgy footwork that can result in a fall. It is a sport which rewards bravery and clarity of purpose and is, in a sense, a metaphor for life. If you’re lucky, you will have a soft landing, but you could collide with someone whose speed tops 70kph and come out of it badly injured.
All things considered, a bit of expert tuition seemed like it might offer some protection against broken limbs. So, I signed up for a two-hour private lesson with the 333 Ski and Snowboard School.
GOOD INVESTMENT
This proved to be a good investment. My teacher was able to hone in and analyse exactly what I needed to do in order to improve.
It was the perfect opportunity to become a better skier. Before this trip, my ski-ing was a triumph of courage over accomplishment.
For many years, I was able to hurtle down a slope at speed, but my body positioning and execution of turns did not stand up to expert scrutiny.
Bit by bit, under the expert gaze of my instructor, I tamed my straggling limbs and flexed my body to harmonise with the forces of gravity. It was worth the effort. When it comes to ski-ing, fun follows as a function of competence.
Most afternoons, I met up with Ben and he took me to all the best places.
GLACIER
These vary, of course, depending on the weather and the movement of other mountain users. One afternoon, the lifts pierced the clouds on their way to the summit of the glacier and we paused at the top of a difficult run.
On making it to the bottom in one piece, feelings of relief and accomplishment coursed through me as I basked in a startling burst of sunshine. It is a reminder that Tignes and the surrounding resorts offer unbeatable ski-ing.
In recognition of the unreliable nature of the star rating system, the tourism authorities are bringing in a new grading system which will award accommodation a number of pillows in accordance with the quality of facility on offer.
Whether this leads to more clarity or perpetuates the confusion about what visitors can expect from their Alpine holiday remains to be seen.
Clear communication, some investigative skills and a bit of scepticism regarding the claims in glossy brochures should help ensure that you are not disappointed. Above all, you can rest assured that those golden moments on the mountain will make it all worthwhile.
A one-week self-catering holiday in Tignes with Crystal, including flights, starts from £424 per person based on two sharing. Visit www.crystalski.co.uk A private lesson with 333 Ski and Snowboard School starts from 190euros for three hours. A six-day ski pass for the Espace Killy ski area costs 252euros.