I had happily made Skopje, the capital of Macedonia, my base. I’d planned to venture further in Macedonia and head to the mountains. But I was really enjoying Skopje, so stayed put. This being my first visit, there was much to see, explore and learn. I’d therefore leave the rest of Macedonia for another time. Next time.
After soaking up the statues in and around Central Square, I ventured into the old town, the old bazaar, as it’s known.
Oh, I simply have to mention the following. At one of my daily café stops – this really is café society country – I swear I saw legendary actor Peter O’Toole sitting outside a pavement street café.
A charming local gentleman, in his 80s I’d say. Elegantly dressed in a blazer, waistcoat, cravat and a fedora hat. He was reading his paper, drinking his coffee and smoking a strong cigarette in an old-fashioned holder. I stood and actually stared at him. He looked up, smiled, nodded his head, and returned to his paper. I walked on. Damn, if he wasn’t dead, I’d be convinced that was Peter O’Toole. I wish I’d had the courage to ask him if I could have taken his photo.
I’d enjoyed pure blue skies every day and temperatures of around 30 degrees. But on this morning, I noticed it cloudy and heavy. We’d had rain the night previously, yet it was still warm and muggy. I slapped on the sun cream and headed out. Not needed, as I was soon to discover. Neither did I take my lightweight waterproof jacket. Hmm, big mistake.
At 8am, I walked the 30 minutes from my flat to the central square, crossed the centuries-old stone bridge and towards the old bazaar itself. Halfway across the bridge, it started to spit. I walked a little faster, and by the time I’d made it, the heavens opened and it lashed down.
I took refuge at a small street café and ordered a coffee, which can only be described as coffee perfection. Price? Around 75p. I sat outside under a canopy and enjoyed the sight of empty narrow streets as the rain thundered off the cobbles. The air cleared, the temperature dropped, and the rain washed away the pollution.
“I like this weather,” the friendly owner said to me. I agreed. We then discussed pollution, and he agreed with me. “Too many cars here,” he said, “Everyone wants to drive, they drive even very short distances.”
I later did my research and found out that the Skopje air is seen as one of the worst in Europe.
As quickly as it began, the rain stopped, and I ventured back out on to the streets. It was very quiet, all sensible people in doors. Great photo opportunities for me though.
The old bazaar is on the eastern bank of the Vardar River. One of the oldest marketplaces in the Balkans, it has been the centre of commerce and trade since the 12th Century. It’s beautiful, with winding little streets going off at all angles, and charming cobbled stone walkways.
It’s had a tough time though. First, heavily damaged by an earthquake in 1555, a huge fire in 1689, then another earthquake, a devastating one in 1963.
Today, it’s a mix of Ottoman and Byzantine architecture, with mosques and churches all mixed in together. I could write an entire book on it, to be honest. Again, like the statues in central square, it is almost overloaded with culture.
Because of the weather and early hour, nearly all the shops were closed, so I didn’t see the out-front displays of carpets and other such treasures for sale. That didn’t bother me. I actually preferred it that way. I’d imagine in season, and with pleasant weather, it could get rather touristy.
I’m told that it had a poor reputation in the early 2000s, some claiming it an area of criminality and uncleanliness. Thankfully, I didn’t see any of that, just a quaint mix of shops, cafes, restaurants, churches and mosques.
Attached to the end of it is “Bit Pazar”, a street-food market, the biggest in Skopje. Multi-ethnic, locals and rural farmers come to sell their produce. An abundance of fresh veg, aromatic spices and lots of products like smoked sausage. Heavenly smells all around.
I spent days wandering around the old bazaar, and every day I found another little alleyway. It really is a gem. You know, I wouldn’t recommend anyone to go to most of the places I venture. But I can highly recommend a trip to Skopje. It is safe, relatively easy to get to from the UK, jammed full of fascinating history, the food is excellent and accommodation plentiful and at a great price. It is relatively undiscovered and there are no hoards of western tourists.
I’m not the world’s biggest beer drinker. One is enough for me, and only if it’s a good one. Skopsko is the famous lager here, and it deserves a mention. Brewed since 1924, it’s not gassy but light and refreshing, often served in half-litre glasses that are kept in the freezer. Excellent stuff.
As for Macedonian red wine… it’s of a very high standard and almost unknown in the west. I’ve had the pleasure of slurping it over many years from living in such places as Budapest and Moscow.
There are three wine-growing regions here, producing a variety of internationally known grapes such as Cabernet, Pinot Noir and Merlot. But it’s the local grape Vranac that I adore.
The Vranac grape is deeply coloured, almost purple, that turns a dense ruby. Smell – think of black forest fruits, herbs and oak. Full bodied, it is though subtle and smooth on the palate.
If you ever get the chance to buy it, I can’t recommend it enough.
However – and just in case you’re thinking that I’m now working for the Macedonian tourist board – there is another side to Skopje.
Skopje undoubtedly deserves the praise I have given it, yet I’m not primarily a “travel writer”, so it was time to dig deep and talk about the day-to-day issues that bubble away under the surface.
Stray dogs, although often docile, can be extremely dangerous. There are beggars, much poverty, Roma kids raking in bins, and lots of corruption.
I doubt you’ll see any of this is in the official tourist guides…
