The tiny Mediterranean nation of Malta is more than a sum of its parts – a melting pot of British, European and Arabian legacy which grabs your senses the minute you arrive, and leaves you in no doubt you’re far from home.
I arrived on a scorching day on one of the hottest years on record.
But here, the sea is a cooling neighbour. And besides that, there’s the promise of incredible rooftop pools, lidos and rocky inlets to take the heat off.
For the uninitiated, this tiny country sits at a cultural crossroads. It’s an EU state with a 20th-century British legacy, most obviously in little throwbacks like red phone boxes and left-side driving.
It sits between Italy to the north and the vast continent of Africa stretching to the south.
The food will be familiar to any lover of pasta and seafood, as well as eastern dishes and flavours from the Moorish past.
Its towns and villages are dotted with churches but the island is crowned by a spectacular domed mosque.
Modern hotel in a historic setting
The built-up sea front has memories of the first wave of British package tourism, Spanish style. But it is clearly being superseded by more modern and varied visitors with attractions to suit.
With that in mind, I was booked into a new hotel near the bustling harbour facing the historic capital, Valletta.
Around the set-back location, glass buildings sit in gaps left between traditional stone terraces, all with striking wooden balconies in bright colours in various states of repair.
The hotel – Grand Suites Hotel Residences and Spa – was built during the difficult Covid pandemic years, but it’s already making its impact felt.
And there’s no better place to experience that new wave of optimism than from the glass-sided rooftop pool.
Heated to near-bath temperatures, this vantage point gives the infinity view so loved by social media users.
But the sun-loungers around the patio, the bar and the ‘Eleven Eleven’ restaurant, cater for all tastes.
Horse-drawn transport
The four-star hotel caters for solo travellers, families, right up to “presidential suites” with some incredible views over the old harbour.
There’s an airy café, Fer-Blanc, at the entrance. And the Ease Spa, at the bottom of the hotel, is a real haven away from the bustle of this ancient city.
With a base like this, it’s easy to get around.
Hiring a car is straightforward enough, and does away with any nervous shift to the right in other mainland European countries.
But far better to pick up any of the affordable tickets which give you access to the constant supply of open top buses around the island.
I bought an iSee Malta pass, which costs 28 euros, easily sorted at a seafront kiosk.
Over the course of a day, I was transported to drop-off and pick-up points around the north of Malta – the ultimate destination being the incredible fortress town of Mdina.
This spectacular stone sprawl appears to be carved straight from the arid hill top ground, crowned by ancient buildings featuring museums and topped with tempting restaurants.
The flag-stone streets are car free. The only transport here involves horse-drawn carriages which can be picked up at the massive front gates.
Incredible views
Staying on foot, I swept around the old town and took a break on the terrace of the Fontanella tea garden, where pizzas are around 10 euros. The views are incredible, and best enjoyed with any of the mouth-watering ice creams on offer.
There are sandy beach stops along the way for anyway put off by the stone shores of the rest of the island.
I had kept note of a few small coves on the way round, promising to return later.
One taxi driver earlier groaned as he told me Malta has among the highest proportion of private cars in Europe. I wasn’t surprised to hear it.
The separate public bus service is cheap and reliable – and air conditioned.
All along the built-up coast there are picture-postcard harbours with distinctive Maltese wooden boats jostling for space near eye-wateringly expensive looking super yachts.
The lifeguard-observed water at Balluta was cool and welcome – and offered a unique view back at the busy streets curving around the inlet. If you’d rather not hit the sea, there are lidos like Aqualuna charging about 20 euros for half a day.
Malta is clearly shifting from a package holiday past and appears keen to offer a more cosmopolitan scene to travellers.
So much to explore
While the local food is great, there are top restaurants showcasing the best international cuisine all just waiting to be discovered in the ancient streets.
One relative newcomer, Naan Bar, is a remarkable Indian restaurant with a menu the owner is clearly keen to show off.
The selection is incredible. Where you might expect lamb, the local twist means a switch to rabbit – a real local favourite.
On Old Bakery Street, there’s a chef’s table for a real treat and private dining, as well as a bustling restaurant area.
The tightly curled coastline can be walked without much bother but Valetta can seem a little cut off for pedestrians staying elsewhere.
That’s where the ferry crossing comes in. For a cheap fare, you can pick up a frequent sailing taking just 10 minutes from the old town across the inlet to Gzira and to the hotel.
Stunning coastline
If more time on the water is what you’re after, this is the right place.
Private hires are available at the many harbours, some charters taking you to coves for a swim or just for the pleasure of seeing the island from the sea.
I joined a yacht skippered by a Maltese sailor for a proper exploration of the island’s southern reaches.
Armed with a stand-up paddle board and not enough sunscreen, my group was treated to some of the warmest waters I’ve ever experienced.
There might be little in the way of sand, but the coves and even tunnels around the coast at Kalanka were breathtaking.
For an island with a landmass barely bigger than Glasgow, it is remarkable how much more there is to be explored.
Fact box
Rooms at Grand Suites start from 120 Euros. A 15% summer discount was being offered as of June. Go to grandssuites.com for more.
Air Malta flies from Glasgow to the island. Prices can vary so check dates and cost online. In July, they are as low as £80 one way.
EasyJet connects Aberdeen to Malta via Gatwick.
iSee Malta bus passes from 28 Euros for a day hop-on-hop-off.