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Local delicacies are at the heart of Potarch

Local fare is put to the fore at Potarch. Picture by Wullie Marr / DC Thomson.
Local fare is put to the fore at Potarch. Picture by Wullie Marr / DC Thomson.

Picture this: tall trees shimmying in the breeze, lush greenery all around and a tranquil river trickling gently downstream beneath your feet.

If you enjoy these kinds of majestic views with your coffee morning cup of coffee, then Potarch is undoubtedly the place to be.

Set among the grounds of the Ballogie Estate, the cafe and restaurant is currently run by couple Thomas Ward and Alice Nicol.

Alice Nicol and Thomas Ward. Picture by Wullie Marr / DC Thomson.

A strong local ethos is at the heart of everything they do. From making their own bread to sourcing wild venison from Ballogie Estate, this is a venue that blends cafe style menus with restaurant quality dishes throughout its eye-catching menu.

Its quality coffees and locally sourced drinks are also a star attraction.

Having moved from London to take the reins of Potarch, Thomas and Alice are loving life in the north-east.

Sourdough cinnamon swirl and specialty coffee at Potarch. Picture by Wullie Marr / DC Thomson.

“I think I was definitely the more enthused out of us both for getting out of London,” Thomas laughs.

“It’s just a beautiful spot.

“There are so many lovely places to walk around here and if you want a hot coffee to go along with it, we’re very happy to provide that.”

A homecoming

Thomas’ past life revolved around music journalism before he set off on a global quest to pursue his newfound passion for coffee.

He lived in Australia and New Zealand before returning to London, where he met Alice by “bribing her with flat whites and brownies” so that she would keep visiting the cafe where he worked at the time.

Outside Potarch. Picture by Wullie Marr / DC Thomson.

“He still does that!” Alice laughs, and though the north-east of Scotland may be totally new for Thomas, Ballogie has always been at the core of Alice’s life.

“I was born in Aberdeen and actually grew up here on the estate,” Alice explains.

“It’s still family-run and when Thomas and I were living down in London, we were presented with the opportunity to move up to the north-east as the existing managers of Potarch were moving on to new ventures.

“So, I asked Thomas if he would be up for moving to Scotland and running a cafe together.

“Growing up here was really special and it’s such a beautiful place to be. That was a big draw for choosing to work here, as well as being closer to family.”

“We’re really proud of the work that we’re doing here as a team within the local area,” Thomas Ward. Picture by Wullie Marr / DC Thomson.

Adapting

All set for their new lives together, the pair planned to get things rolling in July 2020.

However, Covid understandably brought about a few changes to what they had in mind.

“We ended up moving in just two days before lockdown in March,” says Thomas.

Seasonal salad with puy lentils, beetroot, feta, house pickles, toasted seeds and sliced wild venison tenderloin. Picture by Wullie Marr / DC Thomson.

“Unfortunately, one of the first things we did was to close the cafe – so that wasn’t quite the plan!

“We’ve faced a lot of challenges like reducing the menu through Covid and balancing costs between what’s going on for everyone economically.

“But we’re here, still standing and adapting to changing circumstances.”

Potarch

Potarch’s harmonious relationship with Ballogie Estate is its USP when it comes to food.

Care and attention using the local produce around them is imperative for Thomas and Alice, who make the most of seasonal lamb and beef from their own farm as well as implementing the estate’s signature wild venison across their menu.

Fish finger sandwich served on a house-made sourdough roll, topped with pickled cucumber, pickled pink onions and tartar sauce. Picture by Wullie Marr / DC Thomson.

“It’s a cafe menu, but with some extra interesting plates there to make use of the local produce around us,” says Alice.

“The wild venison we serve is all part of the estate’s conservation plans – we really make that a feature.

“We have trout running through a river not far from us and our cold smoked trout dish has been a big hit.

Root vegetable rösti with cold smoked trout, fried egg and peas whipped with lemon and crème fraîche. Picture by Wullie Marr / DC Thomson.

“Our seasonal salads are also great, which we source from Kincardine O’Neil, and we like to use our own skills by making our own sourdough breads and home bakes.

“We’re really blessed with what’s available to us.”

Ballogie wild venison burger topped with cheese, salad leaves, tomato relish and pickles, served with chips. Picture by Wullie Marr / DC Thomson.

Stand out coffee

As a former head of coffee for Allpress Espresso back in London, it’s safe to say that Thomas has all bases covered when it comes to making quality coffee at Potarch.

“I must have a degree’s worth of coffee experience, so I’m hoping it’s all rubbing off here!” he laughs.

Latte. Picture by Wullie Marr / DC Thomson.

“Our espressos always go down well and the customers are really enjoying the Allpress coffee.

“Moving into winter, I’m keen to work with some more local roasters as I’ve been absolutely blown away by the quality of coffee that can be found in Scotland.

“I’m a big fan of the likes of Cairngorm Coffee and we’re really keen to highlight how great Scottish produce is here.”

Delectable drinks

Showcasing the best of local doesn’t just stop at coffee, however.

Local beers, spirits and ciders can also be enjoyed here and Thomas and Alice like to make the most of it in their food offerings too.

“Lost Orchards apple cider, which is based in Dundee, has gone down really well during the summer,” says Thomas.

Thomas’ passion for coffee shines at Potarch. Picture by Wullie Marr / DC Thomson.

“Tasting it for the first time this year myself, I’d say it tastes closer to champagne than what it does to cider.

“Harviestoun craft beer has been great, Schiehallion is also popular and we like to use things like Innis & Gunn’s barrel bourbon in our homemade stout cakes.”

‘It’s our home’

The sense of community that Thomas and Alice have fostered at Potarch in a short space of time is palpable.

Their enthusiasm shines through when it comes to talking about what they love most about Potarch.

“[Customers] can really see the care and attention that we’re putting into the cafe and that we’re really enjoying it,” Thomas Ward. Picture by Wullie Marr / DC Thomson.

Whether it’s cyclists stopping by mid-route or dog walkers making the most of local scenery, the pair are more than happy to continue welcoming new and familiar faces to what they affectionately call their new “home” in the north-east.

“We’re really proud of the work that we’re doing here as a team within the local area,” says Thomas.

Potarch is set among greenery by the banks of the River Dee. Picture by Wullie Marr / DC Thomson.

“It’s gone down so well with customers too – they can really see the care and attention that we’re putting into the cafe and that we’re really enjoying it.

“Meeting people on a daily basis and making them coffee is something I’d happily do all day long.

“It’s definitely the most beautiful venue I’ve ever worked in… it’s our home now.”

A round of questions with Thomas Ward and Alice Nicol of Potarch…

Surf or turf?

Turf. Our home farm is three miles down the road form Potarch.

If you were a drink, what would you be and why?

An Allpress espresso; sweet, balanced, and complex.

What’s in your drinks cabinet at home?

Mainly a range of Speyside whisky. Thomas got very good at making whisky sours and old fashioned in lockdown!

Best tea and biscuit pairing?

Yorkshire tea and a chocolate caramel digestive.

Best sandwich filler?

Sliced wild venison tenderloin. We created a sandwich around it (The Ranger’s Roll) when we started here and it’s been on the menu since.

Any secret tips of the hospitality trade?

Have fun. If you’re having fun, everyone else it too.

Best food and drink pairing?

Coffee and pastry. Our sourdough cinnamon swirls have garnered a reputation.

If you were stuck on a desert island, what three drinks would be there with you?

Water, whisky, wine.

You have to serve your favourite superhero or celebrity a drink. Who is it and what do you serve them?

Hunter S. Thompson, Wild Turkey Bourbon.

www.ballogie-estate.co.uk/potarch-cafe-restaurant

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