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Restaurant review: Heart and soul dining at Maggie’s Grill’s new Marischal Square joint in Aberdeen

Maggie's Grill is the place to be for food with soul. This pulled pork burger hit the mark with Society editor Ellie House.
Maggie's Grill is the place to be for food with soul. This pulled pork burger hit the mark with Society editor Ellie House.

Forgive me foodies, for I have sinned. Despite living in the north-east for six years, I had never been to Maggie’s Grill.

Nor had I ever heard a bad review, only endless accolades from the home of soul food.

The ribs, the burgers; this is Cajun cooking with Parfitt passion and Sebastian Spice, after determined duo Sebastian Lord and Richard Parfitt launched Maggie’s Grill in 2014.

They’ve weathered the storm of recessions and of course the pandemic, while working with the crème de la crème of local suppliers.

And having just opened a new restaurant at Marischal Square in Aberdeen, alongside upgrading the kitchen at the Holburn Street site, it’s clear that cooking with soul is the way to winning hearts.

When I suggested to head of food and drink at DC Thomson, Julia Bryce, that we grab a meal at their latest restaurant, she jumped at the chance.

A nod from Julia is the Aberdeen version of a Michelin star, and I luckily managed to book a table online for 5:30 on a Friday night.

Maggie’s Grill Marischal Square

Kind of early for dinner, but it was the last remaining slot and the place was already packed when we arrived.

Our table for two was right by the window, perfect for people watching and of course there’s the gorgeous view of Marsichal College.

Maggie’s Grill has a picture perfect location in the city.

The interior has been well thought out, burnt oranges and exposed lighting without appearing to be too overdone.

While Julia is an old hand with soul food, I’m a tad less educated.

The interior has gorgeous deep south vibes, as you’d expect for the home of soul food.

The whole concept of pickling, smoking and curing leaves me a little confused, but I tried to best to think Southern comfort.

Not that I had to try hard, as the starters menu was simple but impressive.

The Food

Tex-Mex nachos or Southern fried halloumi, it was the calamari that caught my eye.

Julia settled on Southern fried chicken tenders with a sweet and spicy corruption glaze.

I don’t normally court corruption, but consider me a convert.

We had agreed to share before anyone thinks I’m that person who helps themselves to someone else’s dish, heaven forbid.

Chicken, I’m normally not fussed.

Love me tender, this dish was incredible.

But oh my, we agreed this dish was incredible.

The glaze was so moreish, I can’t even describe it.

And the chicken, beautifully cooked and yes, very tender.

My calamari meanwhile, was sliced thinly and came with a gorgeous dip.

How did it measure up to those pesky tenders? Well I hate to say it, but it was left a little in the shade.

Still good, just not quite as memorable.

The calamari was cooked well, and I loved the thin slices.

One thing I was a huge fan of was the atmosphere at Maggie’s.

The brand claims to be fuss free, and they’ve got that vibe absolutely spot on. There was a wide range of customers and you could see everyone was having a really good time.

The staff were very hard working, and I also liked the fact that we were assigned the same server all night. He took the time to give recommendations, and also cleared plates away quickly with a smile.

Next up was the mains, and I am so glad that veteran Julia warned me about portion sizes.

No piddly portions here, although there is a small plates selection on the menu.

I boldly decided on a BBQ pulled brisket. The thought of locally sourced beef, cooked for 16 hours and served with creamy slaw, come to mumma!

The menu really is extensive however, from howlin’ wolf chili to seven cheese macaroni.

Julia settled on a buffalo burger which included blue cheese and Louisiana hot sauce.

I also thought ordering a side of onion rings was a good idea.

The buffalo burger is a mighty portion.

In retrospect, I should really have considered the fact that I had already put away two starters.

(Sorry Julia, I did eat about 75% of yours alongside my own)

My burger was roughly the size of my face give and take, the brisket spilling out of the bun with delicious abandon.

The beef, so tender I could cry. The bourbon barbecue glaze, just right.

I liked the added crunch of the coleslaw, and the onion rings weren’t too greasy or too soggy.

But could I finish my dish? Of course not.

Slow cooked pulled brisket, complete with creamy slaw.

The only thing I really wasn’t a fan of was the hush puppies.

This savory snack is deep fried and made from cornmeal based batter.

It did nothing for me, whereas Julia was a huge fan and scandalised by my reaction.

I was full after five mouthfuls, while she merely laughed at my incompetence and expertly cleared her plate.

A buffalo burger is Julia’s go to, and of course it didn’t disappoint.

The blend of crispy chicken and that hot sauce for an added kick, a winner.

Our sever very kindly left some takeaway boxes on the table, and I decanted what was left of my meal so I could enjoy it later.

Unfortunately I didn’t get the chance, as my husband devoured the lot and said it was delicious.

We couldn’t help ourselves, and selected pecan pie alongside chocolate brownie.

Back to Maggie’s, and you’d think I’d know when to quit.

Reader, I do not.

The dessert menu boasts Stew ‘N’ Drews luxury ice cream, need I say more?

Ever predictable, I chose chocolate fudge brownie while Julia settled for Maggie’s bourbon pecan pie.

The pecan pie is a slice of heaven, with sugar on the side.

There was a lot riding on the brownie, because a dry brownie honestly breaks my heart.

Thankfully it was the right side of moist, rich but not sickly and yes it came with ice cream.

Julia described the pecan pie as “pure sugar” and if that’s not beautiful, I don’t know what is.

The verdict

We had a fantastic evening together, and I have since recommended Maggie’s Grill to several people.

The food is just fabulous, and it’s refreshingly different.

All this chat of soul cooking isn’t a gimmick, it’s a real dedication.

I’ll be back, but I might go easy on those onion rings.


Information

Address: Maggie’s Grill, Unit 2, Marischal Square. Aberdeen

Tel: 01224 635330

Price: £64.75

Website: www.maggiesgrill.co.uk

Instagram: @maggiesgrill or Facebook: @MaggiesGrill.


Ellie House is the editor of Society, a lifestyle magazine which is published every Thursday in the Evening Express and shared online here.

She is also a features writer for both The Press and Journal and Evening Express.

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