Pressure goes hand in hand with being a head chef but for Alex Dando it’s something he relishes.
Calm and collected, Alex always keep a cool head in the organised chaos of the kitchen at The Atrium, a family run restaurant specialising in locally-sourced, traditional Scottish cuisine with a contemporary twist.
Owned by the Clark family who operate three other hospitality firms in the north-east, the family have put their heart and soul into transforming the former Howie’s restaurant in Chapel Street into a venue where local charm meets Scottish cuisine.
Just two months on from opening, Society caught up with Alex, an award-winning chef with 13 years of culinary experience, to get the lowdown on the mouthwatering dishes he’s serving up.
How would you describe the food at The Atrium?
I like to use Scottish food but with a twist on it, like an Asian or Thai fusion. We’re trying to source as much of our food locally as possible.
So we’re open from noon to 9pm with different menus available including a lunch, a late lunch, an early dining and evening menus to choose from.
What is on your lunch menu?
We’ve got dishes like Cullen skink and salt and chilli calamari. The duck bao buns with Gressingham duck, spring onions and wasabi mayo are very popular.
Also on the menu are haggis spring rolls with Aberdeenshire haggis, chilli jam and pea-shoots as well as bang bang cauliflower with crispy, spiced roasted cauliflower florets, pickled carrot, coronation ketchup, black onion seeds and charred lime.
People also like the mandarin chicken tenders with katsu curry sauce, smashed popadoms, coriander and toasted sesame seeds.
We’ve also got a katsu chicken curry with panko breaded chicken breast, katsu curry sauce, basmati rice and fresh coriander. I think the most popular lunch dish is our beer battered haddock and chips. We source our fish from Peterhead.
What about your evening menu?
The braised shin of Scotch beef is very popular as it’s served with bubble and squeak, roast baby beetroot, charred baby leeks with a red wine and thyme jus.
Also on the main menu is Balmoral chicken with roast chicken breast stuffed with Aberdeenshire haggis and wrapped in bacon, chive mashed potatoes, a carrot purée, tenderstem broccoli and a single malt whisky and pink peppercorn cream sauce.
Also on the menu is the Gressingham duck breast with carrot puree, pak choi, hasselback potatoes and a five- spice jus.
Our lunch and dinner menus are quite similar but we do have a few extra dishes at night time.
We also have steaks which are all 28-day matured, black gold Inverurie Scotch beef, served with grilled mushrooms, roasted beef tomato and Roscoff onion, rocket, parmesan, salad and skin on fries.
Do you have any vegetarian/vegan dishes?
Yes, we have vegan, vegetarian, gluten free dishes such as our gnocchi which comes with roasted butternut squash, sage pesto and parmesan.
The meat free Beyond Meat burger has also proved popular and is served with roasted mushrooms, tomato relish and gem lettuce. We’ve also got gluten free fish and chips.
And desserts?
One of our most popular desserts is the Biscoff cookie dough with caramel sauce, Rizzaʼs of Huntly Biscoff ice- cream and crumb.
We’ve also got a caramelised white chocolate panna cotta with raspberry gel, pickled raspberries and a chocolate tuille which can be served gluten free upon request.
We also do a vegan dark chocolate mousse with blood orange gel and hazelnut shortbread. Also on the menu is a Scottish cheeseboard with cheese including Strandon Blue, Morangie, Black Crowdie, Isle of Mull cheddar, quince jelly, artisan biscuits, tomato relish and grapes.
The Scottish tablet sundae with Chantilly cream, tablet pieces and Rizzaʼs of Huntly ice-cream is really good too.
Do you have a children’s menu?
We certainly do have a kid’s menu with dishes like mini fish and chips, pizza, macaroni cheese and fries, soup, nachos and a beef burger.
For dessert they can choose from sticky toffee pudding, ice-cream and warm cookie dough.
What is the venue like inside?
It’s a very relaxing and friendly space. Everyone is made to feel very welcome so we get customers of all ages through the doors.
Do you have any aspirations for the future?
I would like to win some awards for The Atrium, that’s my main aim.
Last year I won a bronze medal in the Game Chef Of The Year 2022 Awards for the North East so I’d like to win a few more.
It’s a very intense job, what do you love about it?
It can be quite pressurised but that’s why I love it. I’m calm under pressure. When I’m not working I like to relax by spending time with my wife Kelsey. She’s been very supportive.
As much as I love my job, I always want a break from cooking when I’m at home.
Have you always worked in the hospitality industry?
I left school when I was 15 and a half and I got my first job at the Udny Arms Hotel in Newburgh so I started washing dishes there before being asked to be a chef. I’ve also worked at The Bieldside Inn and The Newmachar Hotel which is where I first became a head chef. It was scary to take on the role as head chef but it was good at the same time. I’ve also worked in the Cove Bay Hotel.
What is your favourite part of the job?
Sourcing and cooking fresh, local best produce from Aberdeen and across Scotland. I find cooking quite therapeutic.
For more information about The Atrium check out their website
Conversation