Magical settings, world-class restaurants and magnificent views that make you want to come back for more – Skye has it all, writes Susan Welsh
There’s something rather special about being there at the exact moment when someone close to you sees for the first time, something you have been raving about for a long time. There’s usually a pause, followed by a comment along the lines of: “Wow, I didn’t think it would be as nice as this.”
Ignoring the urge to say, “I told you so” I witnessed several of these special moments during a short break to Skye with my daughter, who has travelled to several far flung corners of the world, but was making her first visit to Skye.
The road between Inverness and that jewel of an island is littered with scenic gems and on this particular occasion, it felt like VisitScotland itself had been working behind the scenes to make it extra special. We drove past glittering mirror-calm lochs edged by snow-capped mountains, we saw eagles soar, deer run, cute baby wild mountain goats clamber among rocks and watched seals enjoying a slow, lazy swim in the warm, spring sunshine.
On a day like this it would have been rude not to stop regularly to take photographs, especially when the iconic castle that features on thousands of Scottish tourist brochures, Eilean Donan on the edge of the picturesque village of Dornie, came in to view. Rated as one of the top 10 fairytale castles in Europe, it’s thought it was in the mid 13th century when the first fortified castle was built on this spot to stand guard over the lands of Kintail.
This brooding, rugged and spectacular castle welcomes thousands of visitors each year. But with a lot to pack in during our short stay in Skye, we only stopped long enough to admire it from the outside before continuing on to Kyle of Lochalsh. On the outskirts of the town there’s a good car park which is worth pulling into as from here there are fantastic views of the Skye bridge and island.
For drivers, crossing the bridge is not that simple as there are views to be enjoyed on both sides which can make it hard to keep your eyes on the road. Don’t say I didn’t warn you…
With everything from lovely beaches, high mountains, imposing headlands, tall cliffs and fields full of what seemed like extra fluffy sheep to admire, the journey to our first stop, Waternish, in the north west of Skye, was joyful.
There’s a real feeling of space and timelessness here. Spotting ruined croft houses makes you think of history’s darker days while the numerous new build and cutting edge houses springing up let you know this island is not stuck in the past. Skye is also home to several world acclaimed restaurants and chefs, and our aim was to sample as many of these as we could which is why we found ourselves heading for the community of Stein on the Waternish Peninsula.
It is here Michelin-star chef Michael Smith, formerly of the Three Chimneys, has opened his own place, the Lochbay Restaurant. Housed in a small, whitewashed building overlooking some pretty spectacular scenery, the food is as you’d expect, first class. This is a great addition to the Skye dining scene which already attracts foodies from around the world.
We spent the afternoon exploring the delights of Dunvegan, home of Dunvegan Castle, the seat of the Clan Macleod, and numerous hamlets and beauty spots such as the famous Fairy Bridge which is steeped in folklore. As the sun began to set we made our way along the single track road to The House-Over-By, the delightfully named accommodation attached to the Three Chimneys where we were to have dinner and spend the night.
The Three Chimneys story is a rather remarkable one. In 1984, Shirley and Eddie Spear left their home in London and moved to Skye where they opened a restaurant in what is a very remote part of the island. Their dream of creating an authentic bistro showcasing the best of local produce took off in a big way and last year the restaurant, which is regarded as one of the best places to eat in the world, celebrated its 30th year.
In 1999, The House-Over-By was opened and offers six stunning five-star bedrooms. Our front-facing room was a large split-level suite complete with comfortable lounge, a gorgeous well-appointed luxury bathroom with Temple Spa toiletries, comfy beds and fine open views across Loch Dunvegan towards The Minch while the peaks of Harris and North Uist lurk in the distance.
Many of the soft furnishings have been chosen to reflect the nature of the local area, with a splendid mixture of tweeds, soft fleeces and stylish accessories. In-room facilities include a multi-channel, flat-screen TV, DVD player and iPod dock and free Wi-Fi, a well-stocked mini bar, kettle and coffee machine, plus complimentary fresh fruit, homemade shortbread, tablet, fresh milk and mineral water.
Guests are free to use the lounge which also enjoys fine loch views. A big telescope is on hand to let you get a closer look at the wildlife and in the evenings, candles and a big stove are lit, turning it into a cosy paradise where you can read, play board games or enjoy a pre-dinner cocktail before heading for the restaurant.
That night we dined like kings having enjoyed a seven course taster menu by new head chef Scott Davies, which showcases the best of Skye’s produce. We opted to eat at the Kitchen Table which costs a little extra, but worth it if you want to experience what goes on in a multi-award-winning kitchen. Dinner was exceptional and I’d recommend the tasting menu to anyone looking to create a special memory.
Despite being tempted to stand outside and look at the stars glittering overhead – Skye’s a fantastic place to study the heavens – we turned in and enjoyed a peaceful night’s sleep before a rather splendid breakfast next morning.
At the recommendation of a member of staff we headed for the port of Uig before cutting across country to Staffin – the road isn’t recommended during the winter months but an absolute must when the weather is fine as it’s surrounded by breathtaking views. The Quirang, whose strange formations and rock sculptures make it look other worldly, is part of the remarkable Trotternish Peninsula. The Quirang is a one-hour walk from the car park which is two and a half miles from Staffin, a beautiful township on the edge of a stunning bay.
A trip around the coastline of Trotternish is like taking a trip through time as it takes in long-established villages and landmarks such as The Old Man of Storr, the highest, and much photographed, point of the ridge.
Heading south to Portree, there’s both the brooding magnificence of the ridge to be admired as well as wonderful coastal views, while the bustling town of Portree, with its pretty harbour, has plenty to offer visitors looking for good food, accommodation or entertainment.
We spent two days in Skye, experienced a host of things yet hardly scraped the surface. For foodies, there’s a raft of award-winning restaurants. For climbers, majestic mountains and for fans of wild swimming, there are a host of cool, clear pools known as the Fairy Pools – once voted the best place in Britain for wild swimming – to be sampled while wildlife and history fans are simply spoiled for choice.
Romantic, wild, mysterious and beautiful, Skye really does have it all.
Susan Welsh stayed at The Three Chimneys Restaurant with Rooms, Colbost, Dunvegan, Isle of Skye. Between Easter and October 2016, one night’s room and breakfast for two people sharing, including afternoon tea upon arrival is priced at £345. Dinner is additional and priced at £65 or £90 per person for the tasting menu. Kitchen Table dinners can also be arranged.
Contact: 01470 511258 or visit www.threechimneys.co.uk
