The Esslemont has hit upon the perfect recipe for modern dining.
Take a historic empty building – in this case the old Esslemont and Macintosh department store at the top of Aberdeen’s Union Street – and transform it into a mood-lit bar and restaurant.
Pay homage to the building’s haberdashery past with a scattering of sewing machines and tailor dummies.
Finally, serve up delicious food aided by excellent and attentive service.
It’s a formula that has worked since the Esslemont opened in 2019.
And with the restaurant taking part in the upcoming Aberdeen Restaurant Week (ARW), one that more people will be able to try for themselves.
The Esslemont’s ARW menu boasts three dishes for £25 or two for £20.
Considering the main dishes at the restaurant – some of which are included in the deal – approach the £20 mark on their own, it’s an absolute bargain.
It is also a chance to see the transformation of Esslemont & Macintosh, which for 137 years was Union Street royalty in Aberdeen.
Indeed, the store only closed in 2007, and remains a much cherished memory for many in the city.
This was underlined when my dining companion for the evening revealed that her father used to design the window displays at the store, before her mother convinced him that his future lay in teaching.
The food
Our server Simon did an excellent job of explaining the menu, and with his help I settled on the smoked tofu spring rolls complete with delicious kimchi and peanut dipping sauce.
My companion lucked out with her choice of haggis bon bons, which were crunchy on the outside and oozy in the middle. If ordering food was a competition (and for me it very much is), she’d have edged round one.
Round two went to her again. My pork schnitzel was great, served with a crème fraiche linguini and a pesto sauce.
But the pan-seared beef medallions on the other side of the table were more than worth the £2 surcharge The Esslemont adds to them for the ARW menu.
Indeed, this dish was the star of the evening. With the medallions sitting on top of a crusty disc of roasted sweet potatoes and a mélange of spiralised carrot and courgette, it was worthy winner of our main course face-off.
I was now behind 2-0. With only one course left there was no way back.
But consolation came in dessert form. My sticky toffee pudding was the just the right measure of sweet and sticky, with enough sauce to ensure I was never going to be left high and dry.
In comparison my companion was disappointed that her crème brulee didn’t make enough of a satisfactory crack when she broke the top layer, though the lemon flavouring made for a refreshing end to the meal.
The verdict
The ARW menu at the Esslemont is fantastic value for one of Aberdeen’s best dining experiences.
Meanwhile, the service is more than just window dressing, with the attentive staff adding an extra element to the meal.
We kept it alcohol-free. But there is an extensive wine list and a good choice of cocktails.
The ARW menu allows you to swap out a course for a cocktail or the house wine.
If you are able to, spend the extra money for the beef medallions. I guarantee you will not be disappointed.
And while you are there, soak up the atmosphere of the venue’s storied history.
The Esslemont may not last the 137 years that its predecessor did. But it deserves its shot at carving out a new Union Street legacy.
Information
Address: The Esslemont Bar & Restaurant, 38 Union Street, Aberdeen, AB10 1BD
T: 01224 634815
