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Slàinte to Isle of Skye chef aiming to preserve Gaelic culture at Carbost café

Clare Coghill's passion for Hebridean produce, combined with her Gaelic influences, inspired the opening of Café Cùil in Carbost.

Clare Coghill. Image: Lynne Kennedy Photography | Café Cùil
Clare Coghill. Image: Lynne Kennedy Photography | Café Cùil

Clare Coghill is a native Gaelic speaker who is passionate about promoting the Gaelic culture through her work.

The 31-year-old grew up in the Sligachan Hotel, on the Isle of Skye, “watching chefs from all walks of life working with different ingredients”.

“My mum was also a cook and introduced me to a lot of new flavours and gave me an appreciation for the beautiful produce on Skye,” she added.

A dish available at Café Cùil.
A dish available at Café Cùil. Image: Lynne Kennedy Photography

Clare may have left the Highlands and pursued other career paths through the years, but returning to the hospitality industry was inevitable.

Thus in 2019, her food and drink business Café Cùil started to take shape.

Café Cùil: from East London to the Isle of Skye

Drawing inspiration from the wild, natural larder that Skye has to offer, Café Cùil uses locally-sourced, sustainable produce combined with traditional ingredients to give its own refreshing take on brunch and lunch.

Clare initially opened the café on Kingsland Road, Hackney, in January 2020.

The unique space quickly became a hot spot for brunch lovers. However, the pandemic forced the business to close in a matter of weeks due to lockdown restrictions.

“We packed our bags and drove back to Skye to see it out at home with friends and family,” Clare says. “Little did we know we’d be staying!”

Award-winning Isle of Skye chef Clare Coghill.
Clare is an award-winning chef. Image: Café Cùil

The next chapter?

Well, the award-winning chef hosted a series of pop-ups at Sligachan Hotel throughout 2021 “to test the waters and see how the concept would be received by locals.”

They proved popular, so Café Cùil was reborn in the idyllic setting of Carbost in March 2022.

“The café is built upon the ethos of ‘Scottish, seasonal and sustainable’,” the business owner adds.

“So, we source all of our ingredients from as close to the café as possible, primarily focusing on what’s in season on the island.”

Scottish smoked mackerel on sourdough at Café Cùil.
Scottish smoked mackerel on sourdough. Image: Lynne Kennedy Photography
A Loch Harport lobster roll at the Isle of Skye cafe.
A Loch Harport lobster roll. Image: Supplied by Cafe Cuil

Some well-loved dishes include slow-cooked beef brisket rarebit, Loch Harport lobster roll, and poached eggs with wild garlic pesto.

How the business has evolved…

Café Cùil boasts a team of 10 to 15 locals, including resident baker Fiona and head of front-of-house Catherine. Both have been with Clare since day one.

Since opening in Hackney, the café has gone from being a 20-seater space to a spacious 70-cover restaurant.

The exterior of Café Cùil on the Isle of Skye.
The exterior of Café Cùil. Image: Supplied by Café Cùil

The team has also introduced a concept store with a curated selection of products by local makers and producers, such as Skio Pottery, Isle of Skye Candles, and Raasay Distillery gin and whisky.

Interior of the Carbost cafe.
The space can seat 70 diners at once.

“We’ve also been asked to cater lots of private events both in and out of the premises, and have been invited to host pop-ups at festivals across Scotland.”

Award-winning chef Clare talks preserving Gaelic culture and potential cookbook

Clare went on to say: “With the café, we’ve been able to offer something new and exciting to the local community.

“The feedback from customers has been overwhelmingly positive.”

Café Cùil has been reconnecting locals with ingredients that grow on Skye, and acted as a welcoming hub for people to meet and reconnect with the local language and culture.

Scotch pancakes with rhubarb, gingernut crumble and gorse flower marscapone.
Scotch pancakes with rhubarb, gingernut crumble and gorse flower marscapone. Image: Lynne Kennedy Photography
Chef Clare puts the finishing touches on a dish at Café Cùil.
The business opened for its 2024 season last month. Image: Café Cùil

It boasts murals of Gaelic words and phrases, Gaelic menus, and work by Gaelic artists in the shop.

The name comes from the language with cùil being a nook, nest or corner in Scots Gaelic.

“I have really loved the creative process of writing menus and drawing inspiration from the ever-changing landscapes on Skye,” says Clare.

“Leaving the big city for a slower-paced way of life and reconnecting with my childhood through foraging for wild herbs and discovering new flavours has been a real dream come true.

A dish available at the Isle of Skye restaurant.
Options include all day brunch dishes, soups, and more. Image: Lynne Kennedy Photography

“It’s really wonderful to be able to use the café to give the Gaelic language and culture a platform, by encouraging customers to speak a few phrases with the staff.

“And I hope to one day be able to share my Skye-inspired recipes by releasing my own cookbook.”

Café Cùil recently reopened for the 2024 season and has partnered with Isle of Raasay Distillery to host a series of collaborative supper clubs throughout the year. Email info@cafecuil.com for more information.

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