“I remember as a child, if you dared wander into the grounds of Dumfries House, you’d be in trouble. It was a place you didn’t go near.”
Not my words, but those of some locals we met and who, like us, were enjoying a late afternoon stroll through the estate’s grounds and gardens.
They also said improvements undertaken and a change of attitude relating to visiting the estate since “Prince Charles had taken over” were astonishing and had given this part of East Ayrshire a real boost.
It’s not just the heir to the throne who can be thanked for saving this fabulous, Palladian country house dating from 1754 and its 2,000-acre estate for the nation, but the Prince’s Foundation, a raft of charitable bodies, generous benefactors and an army of hard-working volunteers.
In 2007, the future of the once grand Dumfries House – at one time a playground of the Marquesses of Bute – looked bleak, and it was about to be divided and sold off.
At the 11th hour, as much of its treasures were packed in vans en route to auction houses, the Foundation stepped in and saved it.
Today it’s a most inspirational place to visit, a philanthropic gem where age-old traditional skills and crafts, including woodcarving, stonemasonry and thatching, are being taught to a new generation of craftspeople from all over the world.
The education programme, which attracts around 7,500 pupils from all over Scotland each year, focuses on STEM subjects, horticulture, growing and cooking vegetables, farming, textiles and outdoor activities.
Meanwhile, Woodlands Restaurant, a luxury dining offshoot of the cook school, is open to the public for Sunday lunch and doing a roaring trade by all accounts.
The estate is open to the public, every day of the year, free of charge.
There’s much to enjoy including woodland and riverside walks, a beautiful walled garden, a maze and stunning fantasy children’s play park.
There’s a visitor centre, Coach House Cafe, tours and events, and the chance to stay in a variety of self-catering accommodation ranging from a two-bedroom cottage within the walled garden to the Lodge – previously estate farm buildings now converted into luxurious accommodation.
We stayed in the Lodge’s Doocot Apartment, a graceful first-floor two-bedroom pad with the look and feel of a posh country house.
A blend of fabulous antiques, artwork and objects d’art, combined with state-of-the-art kitchen, en suite and bathroom, made it a very comfortable, relaxing home from home.
With the window shutters closed, lamps lit and wood-burning stove on, it was tempting to stay put, but a seductive treat awaited…
Throughout December there’s a first-class entertainment programme on offer including candlelit tours of the house and festive banquets and dinners.
Walking up the entrance steps to the grand house, we felt like royalty ourselves.
Inside, the impressive entrance hall looked wonderfully festive with tastefully decorated trees and decorations, giant nutcrackers and a welcoming, roaring fire.
Here we met collections manager Satinder Kaur who gave us a fun and informative tour.
We marvelled at sparkling crystal chandeliers, paintings and Chippendale furniture – almost 10% of the world’s entire Chippendale collection is here.
Our tour ended in the beautiful library, which at one point had been a Turkish bath.
Centre stage was a beautifully set long table, adorned with festive greenery and baubles, where everyone dined together and formed new friendships.
And what a fine dining feast it was. Ayrshire smoked trout with a smoked salmon and dill mousse and shallot and chive creme fraiche to start; ballotine of turkey with a sage and onion sausage roll, braised red cabbage, garlic and Rosemary roasties for mains; a chocolate and orange panna cotta, Christmas pudding with coffee and mincemeat pies to finish.
Post feast, we walked back to the Lodge while admiring the stars on this clear and frosty night.
It’s a dark sky area and perhaps it was the wine, but they did seem extra twinkly.
Christmas tours of the house, which include a glass of prosecco, coffee and mincemeat pies are priced at £25.95 per person.
A tour with festive banquet where everyone dines together and includes a glass of fizz, three-course dinner and house wines costs £74.50pp as does a tour/festive feast.
There’s also a Christmas soiree and festive dinner at £84.95 pp which includes musical entertainment.
Other dining options for those staying here include the recently opened Lodge Restaurant which offers two and three-course evening meals between 6-8pm as well as delicious breakfasts.
Meanwhile, families visiting can follow a free treasure hunt “present” trail in the estate’s Rothesay garden, until January 6.
All proceeds from the commercial side of the House, including the Lodge, eateries, tours and events, are invested back into the Prince’s Foundation’s education and training programmes.
We only scratched the surface of what the house and estate has to offer, so a return visit, perhaps in the spring when I’m told the display of 400,000 daffodils on the estate’s Duchess of Rothesay Avenue is a joy to behold, is on the cards.
