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Sausage rolls at dawn: Greggs has finally arrived in the north of Scotland, but its bid for bakery supremacy will be no cakewalk

Greggs has entered the north of Scotland market for the first time, but Alister Asher (left) and Fraser Gow have plenty reasons to be confident.

There’s something different about the north of Scotland.

The air is fresher, there’s plenty room to roam and that Highland hospitality, well, it’s world-famous.

It’s also the only part of the UK that Greggs doesn’t have in a vice-like grip.

Pre-pandemic, the giant bakery chain was shifting more than 2.5 million sausage rolls and one million cups of coffee a week.

But for whatever reason, the north is like the dark side of the moon to the billion pound bakers.

Well, until now it seems.

Greggs arrives in Elgin

When news broke that Greggs was finally entering the market in the north, it attracted a lot of attention.

A post about its impending arrival in Elgin reached more than 70,000 people on the Press and Journal’s Facebook page.

Going on past evidence, it’ll be a success.

The new Greggs in Elgin. Picture by Jason Hedges

The chain posted a 27% rise in its pre-tax profits in 2019 and has now expanded to more than 2,000 UK locations.

That’s more than outlets than the likes of McDonald’s and Starbucks.

But is it possible that Greggs doesn’t really know what it’s getting itself into?

Because around these parts, local is still king.

How will Harry Gow and Ashers stack up?

Harry Gow and Ashers are the dominant forces across much of the region.

And the pair – headquartered in Inverness and Nairn respectively – are fiercely protective of their own turf.

They’ve also made successful homes in Elgin and the new venture from Greggs means it’s the first place to have all three.

Dream rings are a Highland favourite. Picture by Sandy McCook

You’d struggle to name a brand more closely associated with Inverness than Harry Gow.

And if you don’t know what a dream ring is, you’ve got no chance of passing yourself as an Invernessian.

Both Highland bakers have also previously been crowned Scottish Baker of the Year and Harry Gow is the only company to have won the prestigious award twice.

For those reasons, it’s no surprise to hear that they’re confident of their reign continuing.

Harry Gow director Fraser Gow believes his family’s firm has reasons to be confident. Picture by Sandy McCook

“When news of Greggs’ arrival in Moray hit social media, a lot of people thought we were about to start a bunfight,” said director Fraser Gow.

“But as the first ever – and only two-time – Scottish Baker of the Year we’re confident we’ve got nothing to prove.

“Anything that gets people excited about the joy of a tasty cake or a nice, hot pie is good in our books.”

‘I’m confident the vast majority will stick with their local bakers’

It’s a similar message from Ashers.

They’ve been on the go since 1877 and have 12 outlets across the Highlands and Moray.

George and Alister Asher are the joint managing directors of Asher’s.

Director Ali Asher said: “I’m sure Greggs will have done their sums. But it’s a long way to come for a relatively low population base.

“They can no doubt subsidise it as part of a huge group but I’m confident the vast majority of customers will stick with their local bakers.”

One thing that will be different about this intriguing battle for baking supremacy in Elgin is that it won’t take place on the High Street itself.

Ashers was founded in Nairn in 1877.

That’s where Greggs has built its reputation across the UK, but the two new outlets are on both part of service stations just off the A96 the east and west outskirts of the town.

If they prove successful, a High Street location seems the next logical step. After that, could they creep across into the potentially fruitful towns of the Highlands?

What next for Greggs?

Amid fears of food shortages, Greggs announced this morning that it had been hit by the supply chain crisis.

But chief executive Roger Whiteside pledged that supplies of its sausage rolls would be maintained.

The chain is also pushing ahead with plans for 150 new outlets next year after a stronger than expected sales performance.

Greggs has built a baking empire on the back of its steak bakes and sausage rolls.

Questions about whether those plans include any more north of Scotland locations were met with a stony silence by Greggs’ PR team.

But that’s what its track record suggests.

As far as Harry Gow and Asher’s are concerned though, the message appears to be: bring it on.

Harry Gow has 19 bakeries in the north of Scotland and employs more than 200 people. Picture by Sandy McCook

Fraser added: “There’s nothing wrong with a spot of healthy competition. But you won’t find us challenging anyone to sausage rolls at dawn anytime soon.”

Time will tell, but perhaps this town is big enough for all of them.