Up Helly Aa: Shetland’s big day burns as bright as ever before after long three-year absence

By Ellie Milne

January 31 2023, 9:33 pm

This year's Up Helly Aa galley burned bright as the festival celebrations came to a fiery end on Tuesday night. Image Wullie Marr/DC Thomson.

After a long three-year wait, the people of Lerwick made sure Up Helly Aa returned with a bang.

Excitement among the crowd and guizers was evident as the much-loved festival came to a fiery end.

Following postponements due to the Covid pandemic, it was clearer more than ever how much the event means to Shetland.

More than 850 guizers carried torches in the procession. Image: Wullie Marr / DC Thomson

Anticipation was building throughout the day as thousands of people gathered in the town to celebrate the island’s Viking heritage.

Lighting up Lerwick

The streets of Lerwick were plunged into darkness while excited chatter from locals and visitors spread across the designated festival area.

Some had ventured out hours in advance to make sure they had the perfect vantage point for all of the action throughout the evening, with many people gathering in gardens or watching from their windows.

Not even heavy hail showers and strong winds could keep people away.

Have you heard the Up Helly Aa song? Here it is being sung by almost 1,000 guizers tonight 🎵@pressjournal pic.twitter.com/gzfC1jxKKM

— Ellie Milne (@elliem_milne) January 31, 2023

Along at the Isleburgh Community Centre, where the Jarl Squad was first seen in public this morning, 47 squads mustered to bring tradition back into the spotlight.

A troop of guizers in a variety of Viking costumes and other fancy dress, including sheep, snowmen and Elvis, took part in the incredible torch-lit procession.

The galley on its way to the burning site. Image: Wullie Marr / DC Thomson

A single firework shook nearby homes and marked the moment it was time for the almost 1,000 torches to be lit ready for the procession.

Pipe music washed over the crowds and cheers erupted as the torch-lit procession began, with a strong heat hitting spectators in the face as each torch passed.

Despite the windy weather, more than 850 guizers decided to light up – resulting in a striking display of embers dancing in the darkness.

And there go the torches! pic.twitter.com/7UY6llPhqN

— Ellie Milne (@elliem_milne) January 31, 2023

Guizer Jarl Neil Moncrieff, dressed in his red and black mirrored suit, stood onboard the galley as it entered the burning site and was surrounded by the torch carrying men and, for the first time, women.

Four women and three 16-year-old girls were included in squads this year following the lifting of the gender restrictions in 2022.

Guizer Jarl Neil Moncrieff aboard the galley during the procession. Image: Wullie Marr / DC Thomson

Being one of only a select group of people who have been able to look out over the crowd from that angle is a moment the 44-year previously said he was excited to experience.

And, passing up the ranks with his squad of 56 men while the Lerwick Pipe Band played was an emotional moment.

Up Helly Aa celebrations continuing all night

The torch carriers gradually circled the ceremonial boat letting out loud cheers and performing the Up Helly Aa song with spectators of all ages joining in.

The crowd erupted as the hundreds of torches were thrown into the striking red galley – inspired by the Jarl’s favourite football teams.

The Jarl Squad surrounded the galley. Image: Wullie Marr / DC Thomson

Although it takes months of preparation from dedicated volunteers to build the galley, it takes just about half an hour to burn to cinders.

As the smoke still swirled into the night sky, the crowds started to disperse to nearby halls to continue their celebrations.

With endless entertainment from all the squads, revellers are expected to keep the parties going well into the early hours – putting any New Year festivities to shame.