“It’s a step back in time,” says Darren Spence as I ask for the story behind his unique vintage café in Dufftown.
Darren, 52, runs Sidings Café alongside fiancée Anya Hoffman.
It fascinated me from the get-go.
Not only is the spot well-known for its wholesome menu and decadent afternoon teas – which I’ll chat about later – but it is based in two former railway carriages at Dufftown Railway Station.
The couple, who live in Drummuir, took over the quirky business from former owner Karen Vidler in the summer of 2021. They have worked tirelessly to make it a must-visit location in Moray.
Darren has ‘never looked back’ since joining Anya on Sidings Café journey
Despite handing the reins to Darren and Anya, Karen returned to Sidings Café last month on a part-time basis.
It initially opened as The Sidings in March 2017 after Karen came up with the idea to resurrect the carriages.
The interior includes railway memorabilia hung on the walls, plus vintage furniture and accessories.
“The opportunity to take over came around in summer 2021,” says Darren.
“We were both working in an establishment in Dufftown and to be honest, I wasn’t looking for my own place.
“Anya was passed on a couple of phone numbers and was given word of this upcoming opportunity and she was absolutely excited at the prospect of finally running her own business in Scotland.”
Anya has a wealth of experience in the field from working in her home country, Germany, as well as Namibia and locations across Scotland.
Darren adds: “She grabbed the opportunity and decided ‘we’ were going to run The Sidings.
“I decided I was going to remain in my current job as running the café didn’t seem to be my thing, but I was soon proved wrong!
“I left the ‘safety’ of the job and joined her shortly after. I’ve never looked back since.”
From local regulars to cyclists and overseas visitors, customers flock to Dufftown café from all walks of life
Thousands of visitors have stepped through the train carriage’s doors to experience the 1950s setting for themselves.
However, Darren says that Anya has a big part to play in Sidings Café becoming an integral part of the community.
He added: “People of all ages really enjoy coming down and switching off, being transported to an era gone by.
“It’s [also] Anya’s personality, her infectious laugh, her ability to connect with people and be a mother hen. There’s always a warm welcome.
“Lots of our guests have lost loved ones, have a terminal illness or have survived a potentially terminal illness. Anya loves to news with them and listen to their troubles.”
He goes on to tell me that regulars from the local community and further afield – such as Aberdeen, Turriff, Huntly and Aviemore, to name a few places – love to stop by “for a tea, scone and a blether.”
They also welcome cycling and motorcycle clubs, as well as walking, railway tour, and vintage/classic car groups.
“We regularly have four generations of the same family, enjoying their morning coffee and cake. We see many overseas visitors too.
“Last year we had guests from Australia who, upon returning home, recommended us to friends. Imagine our surprise when the friends turned up.
“We also had a lovely bunch of German lads come marching down the platform one day, searching for Anya Hoffman.”
The menu: expect afternoon teas and dishes featuring local produce where possible
The Dufftown café offers simple classic food, according to the owners.
Soups, sandwiches, filled rolls, quiche, salads, baked potatoes, cakes and bakes, and afternoon teas are available. Darren says the latter have “gone to another dimension”.
“We’ve done private hire for milestone birthdays, plus afternoon teas for a wedding party and a celebration for a local window company celebrating 30 years in business,” adds Darren.
“We also serve a smaller version on the Keith and Dufftown Railway trains, available in first class on the 1.30pm and 3.30pm services.”
Darren is responsible for prepping savoury items, whilst Anya is responsible for the sweet items.
Local ingredients and suppliers used include:
- Coffee by Cairngorm Leaf and Bean in Grantown-on-Spey
- Pork sausages by I.G. Thomson Butchers in Keith
- Springer rolls by Sinclairs of Rhynie in Huntly
- Fruit and veg by Speyfruit in Elgin
- Ice cream by Rizzas in Huntly
- Whisky flavoured ice cream by Balvenie St. Dufftown
Owners talk perks of running Sidings Café and praise local volunteers
Darren’s background in the food and drink industry goes back to 1987 – the year he left Buckie High School to study catering at Moray College.
Over the years, the 52-year-old worked in several hospitality venues in Aberdeen and even bought his own pub in Portgordon in the early 2000s, before buying a restaurant in Buckie.
He met Anya whilst working in Keith roughly 14 years ago. They have been a couple ever since.
“Both of us love the social aspect of running Sidings Café,” says Darren.
“It has also given us the ability to step off of the hamster wheel of chef life and kind of take control of our own destiny. It is still hard work and long hours but combined with the enjoyment of working for ourselves.
“We’re also so grateful to be well supported by the lovely volunteers here at the Keith and Dufftown Railway.
“There’s always a willing hand available to do odd jobs around the carriages. They also support us very well on volunteer days by popping in for coffees, cakes and ordering lunch for the train crews.”
Sidings Café is open from 10am to 4pm Tuesday to Sunday, find out more at www.dufftown.co.uk.
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