Beautiful Ballachulish is a west-coast wonder

Any time spent passing through Glencoe is always a treat, a chance to watch the colours of the mountains and foliage change as rapidly as the weather, the driving rain giving way to dazzling moments of glorious sunshine.

So the chance to stay at the beautiful Ballachulish Hotel, tucked away on the edge of Loch Linnhe, was a no-brainer. Two nights of stunning scenery, good food and a spa to boot.

As expected, the weather was its usual erratic self as I arrived and parked up, with charcoal skies threatening a downpour at any moment. But it added to that Highland romance with the late 19th Century building framed beautifully within the backdrop.

The Ballachulish Hotel. Image by Felicity Donohoe.

Inside, I was greeted warmly by friendly staff and, as I waited for the check-in clerk to sort my room, I took in the stunning stately drawing room with its piano, lavish furniture, welcoming fireplaces and high windows with views across the water.

The room itself was a genuine pleasure, with an enormous, comfortable bed, the usual necessities (tea, coffee, biccies, hairdryer, iron, etc) and a bathroom that deserved a review all of its own, with free-standing bath, Victorian tiled walls, sumptuous towels that were so thick they could have been clouds, and views across the loch.

Not-so-bare necessities. Image by Felicity Donohoe.

Also welcoming me to the room was Pavilion pink gin from the 1881 Distillery, which the hotel invited me to try. Well, it would be rude not to.

Pavilion pink gin. Image by Felicity Donohoe.

It was made in 1881’s copper still “Felicity” which, the manufacturer says, “positively glows when we’re infusing our pink Pavilion Gin”. I can attest to that. All the universe signs were there. I needed no further prompting and, gin in hand, I enjoyed a quick soak in the tub as I watched the mountains over the loch become darker as the evening drew in.

Beautiful bathrooms. Image by Felicity Donohoe.

Dining delights

Time for food and the dining room was busy, with guests seated along the window with (again) breathtaking views. I don’t eat meat but found a good array of dishes to choose from and, if you enjoy seafood, you are definitely in for a treat.

Baked camembert. Image by Felicity Donohoe.

The hotel runs a seafood restaurant with salmon, scallops, mussels and monkfish available (to name a few), a meat selection and a decent veggie menu, too.

In fact, over the two days I tasted buffalo mozzarella, baked camembert, wild mushroom risotto and mac and cheese.

The wine list for pairing was pretty good, too, and I enjoyed a crisp Albariño and Chenin Blanc on my stay.

The first morning was lovely and there were a surprising number of things to do locally. The option for extended walks for all abilities was tempting, along with outdoor sports close by, and visitor centres and museums. I opted to check out some local history and popped along to the Glencoe Folk Museum a 10-minute drive away.

For such a small place it had a surprising number of exhibits, all documenting the colourful – and often troubled – history of the glen.

Jacobite relics sit alongside WWI and WWII memorabilia, plus a few surprises such as the replica 2,500-year-old alder-carved Ballachulish Goddess.

Glencoe Folk Museum. Image by Felicity Donohoe.

Driving back, I took a quick detour over the Ballachulish bridge and popped in to see the Pixel Spirits Distillery and the Holroyd Gallery, which featured Cara Mackinnon Crawford last August. They sit just over the water from the hotel, and it was nice to enjoy the scenery from yet another lovely aspect.

Spa break

Having exhausted myself on history and art, it was time for a spa. Happily, I’d packed my swim gear and I headed to the Ballachulish’s nearby sister hotel, Isles of Glencoe, where guests can use the sauna and pool for free.

Ninety minutes later, refreshed, I headed back to the hotel where I found the car park full… of vintage vehicles. They were so beautiful, though, I was happy to make space for them and admire the Porches.

The guest lounge. Image by Felicity Donohoe.

A Dutch motoring club was touring Scotland, and they made some very cheerful guests as I headed down to the bar before dinner.

Another fabulous meal later and I found myself in the drawing room where our European friends were enjoying music on their own sound system, along with some singing.

I resisted the singalong and headed to bed before waking, after a solid night’s sleep, to another lovely morning. This time, a run was on the cards and so I strapped on my trainers and headed to the Glencoe Lochan trail, around eight minutes away by car – and what a treat it was.

Beautiful trails

Lochan Trail. Image by Felicity Donohoe.

Three difficulty options with trails interlinking and crisscrossing around and above the Glencoe Lochan body of water. Stunning blue skies, thick foliage and wildlife greeted me as I took on some steep stretches, easy flats and gravel paths – and hardly anyone in sight. This was Glencoe at its beautiful best, and the perfect end to my stay.

On the way out of the glen as I headed home, I stopped by a local gift and coffee shop, Crafts & Things, which housed plenty of tourist goods but also some lovely local crafts. The locally-sourced and in-house bakes were super and the place was packed with visitors enjoying some unseasonal warmth.

Crafts & Things. Image by Felicity Donohoe.

It might take some time to reach Glencoe and the Ballachulish Hotel, but for those who make the journey, the scenery, welcoming hotel staff, food and activities definitely make it well worth the time and effort.